Tulip Bulb Cultivation Techniques at 9℃
This article introduces the content about tulip bulbs, focusing on the cultivation techniques for tulip bulbs at 9℃, and will share detailed information next.
Tulips require a certain period of low-temperature treatment to bloom after their stems have grown sufficiently. If tulip bulbs are treated with low temperatures before the normal winter, they can bloom earlier. This technique is called "forcing culture," and different treatments can make them bloom between December and February of the following year. The bulbs first need different transition temperature treatments before starting the cold treatment. Transition temperature refers to the temperature used from when the flowers are fully developed until the start of cold treatment, and the duration of transition temperature treatment depends on the variety, usually 2 to 8 weeks. 20℃ is the best transition temperature, which is beneficial for the quality of the flowers and the growth of the roots. The process of fully treating dry bulbs with low temperatures before planting is called the cold treatment process. Currently, the tulip bulbs imported into our country mainly fall into two series: bulbs treated at 9℃ and bulbs treated at 5℃. The function of low-temperature cold treatment is to make the flower stems shorter, the flowers larger, the buds and roots develop faster, and reduce flower diseases.
After understanding the treatment process of tulip bulbs, different treated bulbs can be selected for cultivation. The following is a specific introduction to cultivation techniques using 9℃ treated tulip bulbs as an example.
Bulb Source and Preparation Tulip bulbs in our country are mostly imported from the Netherlands, and it is necessary to select the variety to be planted in October each year and send out the order forms promptly. The bulbs are received at the end of October or the beginning of November and stored in a storage room at 5℃ after receipt.
Preparing the Seedling Bed In the greenhouse, a mixture of loam, peat, and soil fertilizer in a ratio of 4:1:1 is thoroughly mixed and spread out to level, with a thickness of about 10 centimeters, and covered with a layer of coarse river sand about 5 to 7 centimeters thick. The width of the rectangular seedling bed should not exceed 3 meters for ease of later management. The seedling bed should be disinfected and sterilized 10 to 15 days before sowing, usually using methyl bromide to disinfect the soil or using a fumigant.
Sowing The sowing time is generally between November 15th and December 15th. Due to root problems and quality reduction, do not plant after December 15th. Before sowing, the bulbs are peeled and then disinfected. Soak the bulbs in a 0.2% carbendazim or 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10 to 15 minutes, then soak in clean water for 5 to 10 minutes, and after drying, they can be sown. The sowing density is 8×12 centimeters, with a depth of about 1 to 2 centimeters covering the top of the bulb. Water immediately after planting to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Post-Sowing Management Keep the soil moist to prevent the bulbs from drying out. Promptly replant bulbs that have been pushed out of the sand layer due to root growth back into the sand. Remove side buds. Maintain a day and night temperature of 12℃ to 22℃ in the greenhouse, with relative humidity not exceeding 80%. The greenhouse should be ventilated regularly. Keep detailed records of the growth of the bulbs and the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse.
Diseases and Control
1.猝倒: Flower stems or plants fall over due to high relative humidity in the greenhouse or poor root growth, leading to reduced water absorption. Control methods: Do not have excessively low temperatures in management, nor allow the plants to grow too quickly in high temperatures, ensure normal roots, and avoid high relative humidity (greater than 80%).
2.盲芽: Flower buds lose water, petals remain green, leaf tips turn white, stamens and pistils dry out, and the flowers cannot fully open. The reasons are insufficient cold treatment, too high temperatures during storage and transportation, high relative humidity in the greenhouse, and incorrect watering methods leading to root suffocation, etc. Control methods: Prevent these phenomena at every stage.
3.根腐病: Partial root rot in mild infections, and severe infections can lead to flower wilting. Infected roots usually become waxy and cause the surrounding soil to turn brown, eventually making the entire root system brown. The reason is infection with pythium. Control methods: Disinfect the soil before planting. Remove severely infected bulbs promptly. Ensure good soil structure and drainage system in the greenhouse. Keep the greenhouse temperature at 10℃ or below for the first two weeks of planting.
4.软腐病: Early infection of bulb tissue becomes soft, pink, and releases a special odor; later infection of soft rot shows symptoms such as stopped plant growth, yellowing leaf tips, and dehydrated flowers. The reason is infection with pythium. Control methods: Fully disinfect and sterilize the bulbs and soil before planting. Ensure good soil structure and drainage system in the greenhouse. Remove infected plants promptly and disinfect the infected soil.
5.灼伤: Water-soaked green spots appear on the flowers and leaves, gradually turning into large white or brown spots, and can severely inhibit plant development or prevent flowering. The reason is infection with botrytis. Control methods: Remove bulbs that have already been infected before planting and disinfect the soil. Perform routine sterilization treatment on the infected soil. Keep the plant leaves dry, especially at night. It is best to water directly into the soil.
The above shares a comprehensive introduction to the cultivation techniques of 9℃ tulip bulbs, hoping to bring some knowledge about green plants to green plant enthusiasts.