Grapevine Cutting Time and Methods
The web introduces the experience of grapevine cutting time and methods, as well as tips for quickly rooting grape branches in flower planting. Let's follow the editor to take a look!
Recently, some readers have inquired: I want to plant some grapes, but I don't know if grapes can be cut and I don't know what methods are available for cutting grapes. I want to understand how to cut grapes for a higher survival rate. Today, let's get to know some related issues about grape cutting propagation.
Generally speaking, grape fruit trees can be propagated by cutting. After cutting, the grape seedlings can bear fruit normally after 2-3 years of growth. In addition to grapes, other fruit trees such as kiwi fruit, cherry, pomegranate, fig, and blueberry can also be propagated by cutting. Cutting propagation is a very common asexual propagation method in the cultivation of flower seedlings, which can be divided into green branch cutting (also called tender branch cutting, using the current year's new branches for cutting) and hard branch cutting (using branches collected in advance from the previous year for cutting).
Next, I will introduce the operation and management methods of grape cutting propagation to you:
One, Prepare the Seedbed
The seedbed for cutting should be selected with flat and open terrain, deep and fertile soil layer, sunny and windless, and convenient for irrigation and drainage. It should be finely leveled and ridged in advance with fertilization. In dry climates, flat ridges can be chosen for cutting, while in humid climates, high ridges or raised beds can be chosen.
Two, Prepare the Cutting Branches
The branches used for cutting, green branch cuttings can be collected around July, and hard branch cuttings can be collected during winter pruning. They should be selected from strong branches that are fully developed, with plump buds, free from diseases and pests, about 0.5 cm in diameter, and well lignified; cut the collected branches into small segments 20-25 cm long, retaining 2-3 leaves and 2-3 plump buds on each segment, then remove the leaves, lateral branches, tendrils, etc., leaving only the petioles. When cutting the branches, the upper end can be cut flat about 1 cm above the bud, and the lower end can be cut obliquely in the shape of a "horse ear."
For green branch cuttings, it is best to use them immediately after collection. Before cutting, they can be soaked in water for 1-2 hours to fully absorb water. For hard branch cuttings collected in winter, since they will not be used until the spring warming, they can be bundled and stored in a shaded, dry cellar or room, or they can be buried in moist sand. The storage environment should be maintained at around 1-5 degrees Celsius in temperature and about 80% humidity.
Three, Cutting Methods
Grape cutting, green branch cutting is generally carried out from June to September, and hard branch cutting is usually done in March to April.
To improve the root survival rate, before cutting, the roots can be treated with 100 mg/L naphthylacetic acid or substances such as indole butyric acid, rooting powder, etc., and then inserted into the ridge soil according to the density of 25 cm X 30 cm or 35 cm X 15 cm—the lower end of the branch is obliquely inserted into the seedbed soil, with 2/3 of the cutting branch buried in the soil, one bud eye exposed above the ground, and the bud eyes must not be completely buried in the soil. After cutting, water immediately.
For nurseries with raised beds, the branches can be obliquely cut into the ridges with the density of ridge height, width, ridge spacing, and plant spacing being 30 cm, 15 cm, 55 cm, and 15 cm respectively, and then watered along the ridge. For cuttings collected in winter, cutting can be done when the soil temperature 15 cm below the ground is stable at 10-15 degrees or higher.
In addition, covering the ground with plastic film after hard branch cutting can well keep the temperature and humidity, which will increase the survival rate after cutting!
Three, Management after Cutting
Within half a month after cutting grapes, attention should be paid to shading and keeping warm (maintaining a temperature of about 25 degrees and humidity of about 85%), and from cutting to before germination, it is generally only necessary to keep the soil moist without excessive and frequent watering. The bed can be watered once every 10 days or so depending on the moisture; if the soil is dry, small amounts of water should be sprayed in a timely manner to keep the moisture, ensuring that the cuttings root and germinate as soon as possible. Under normal conditions, grape branches can root and germinate after about one month.
Grapevine Cutting Time and Methods
When the cuttings have grown young shoots with 3-4 leaves, the shading can be removed for ventilation training, and then transplanted to the nursery or planted. In addition, according to the growth of the seedlings, it is appropriate to retain one strong bud and remove other excess buds, leaving one new branch per seedling, and when the lateral branches reach an appropriate length, leave 2 leaves for topping.
In addition, during the seedling growing period, 2-3 times of top dressing can be applied (early stage mainly nitrogen fertilizer, supplemented by phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, later stage mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, supplemented by nitrogen fertilizers), and it is also necessary to strengthen watering, tillage, loosening the soil, weeding, and pest and disease control. This can promote the vigorous growth of seedlings, sturdy branches, and quick maturation.
The above-sharing content about grapevine cutting time and methods, and tips for quickly rooting grape branches, is for reference by green plant enthusiasts, hoping to solve your problems in green plant management.