What to do about bulb rot and frostbite?
Bulb plants are widely loved by gardening enthusiasts for their unique reproductive methods, but bulb rot and frostbite often lead to planting failures. This article will systematically analyze the prevention and treatment techniques for bulb diseases, helping you cultivate healthy and robust bulb plants.
Complete Guide to Preventing and Treating Bulb Rot
Analysis of Causes of Disease
Poor ventilation and excessive humidity are the main causes of bulb rot. When the storage environment humidity is >70% and the temperature is >25°C, the probability of narcissus, hyacinth, and other bulbous plants getting infected with pathogens increases by 85%. Experimental data shows that the rot rate of sealed bulbs is 3 times higher than that of ventilated storage.
Step-by-Step Treatment Plan
Mild rot (epidermal infection <30%) can be treated with a three-step therapy: ① cut off the moldy tissue, ② apply wood ash to the wound, ③ keep it in the shade for 3-5 days. Severe rot requires the entire bulb to be destroyed to prevent cross-infection. The tools used for treatment need to be disinfected with 75% alcohol to prevent the spread of pathogens.
Emergency Treatment for Bulb Frostbite
Recognition Standards for Frostbite
Frozen bulbs show characteristics such as transparency and exudation. Temperature monitoring shows that if the bulb core temperature is <0°C for 2 hours, it will cause irreversible damage. It is recommended to use insulation measures in environments below 5°C.
Layered Rescue Techniques
If the outer layer is frozen, the central bud point can be preserved and revived: ① cut off the frozen part, ② disinfect with sulfur powder, ③ grow slowly in a 15°C environment. If the center is frozen, it is necessary to replace the planting medium with a breathable medium of perlite: vermiculite = 3:1.
By establishing a maintenance system that integrates humidity monitoring, temperature warning, and regular inspections, the incidence of bulb diseases can be reduced by 90%. It is recommended to use a bamboo skewer to probe the base of the bulb every 15 days for early detection and treatment, allowing bulb plants to safely survive winter and summer.