Rose cutting method summary
Introduction: This article mainly discusses the experience of roses, summarizes the cutting methods of roses, and the editor will introduce them next.
Rose cutting is known to every rose lover, and there are various methods for rose cutting. This article mainly summarizes some conventional rose cutting methods, hoping to provide references for rose lovers who want to propagate roses by cutting.
I. Rose cutting time
1.1: Cutting in the growing period
From late March to late October, the whole growing season can be cut. However, from late April to late May and from late September to late October are the golden seasons for rose cutting. If there is an automatic spray device, it can also be cut even in the high temperature season of midsummer.
1.2: Cutting in the dormant period
After the leaves fall in autumn to early spring before germination, cut the dormant branches of the current year's roses and cut them in a greenhouse or a place with cold protection facilities for better results. In areas south of the Yellow River, open-field cutting can also be done in winter or early spring without any insulation facilities. The cutting bed should face the sun and keep moist, and the survival rate is also high.
II. Selection of substrates
The success or failure of cutting is greatly related to the substrate. It is best to choose a substrate that is well-ventilated, moisturizing, warming, and easy to drain. Such as vermiculite, perlite, river sand, coarse slag, plant ash, sandy loam, or mix them in a certain proportion. Different substrates must be selected for different cuttings. For open-field seedbeds, choose sandy loam or humus loam, and for cutting in greenhouses, greenhouses, cold frames, warm beds, or flowerpots, it is best to use vermiculite, perlite, river sand, etc. as the substrate. For hard branch cutting, it is best to use humus loam; for soft branch cutting, you can use sand, plant ash, or vermiculite, perlite, etc.
Ps: The highest survival rate is achieved when the air humidity reaches about 90%.
III. Cutting methods
3.1: Spring bud cutting
Newly sprouted roses produce a large number of new buds. In order to shape, some new buds often need to be thinned out. Instead of discarding them, you can perform spring bud cutting, which also has a high survival rate. When the spring buds grow to about 5cm in length and have not yet developed leaves and turned green, use a clean and sharp knife to cut the strong buds close to the base, wash them with clean water, and remove the floating water for later use. The cutting bed is mixed with half珍珠岩 and half fine wood chips as the cutting substrate. Spray with a 0.15% potassium permanganate solution to sterilize and stimulate root growth. Use a bamboo chopstick slightly thicker than the spring bud to make a hole and insert the bud into the hole about 1/3, compacting it. Be careful not to leave a hole at the base of the bud or injure the bud body.
After inserting, spray clean water and straighten up the tilted buds. When there is no floating water on the buds, cover them tightly with a glass plate or plastic film to keep moisture and warmth. If covered with black plastic film, it is more beneficial for healing and rooting, but it is necessary to use an elevated cutting bed or raise the pot to allow air circulation. The temperature at the bottom of the substrate should be 5℃ higher than the air temperature, with 20-25℃ being the best. After 2 weeks, the cut buds can take root, and after 3 weeks, they can be removed from the cover and placed in a sunny place. Generally, they can be transplanted into pots after 4 weeks. Bud cutting has a dense base, a natural complete plant, grows fast, can bloom in the same year, has a full and even plant shape, strong base branching, and is easy to support strong growth for aromatic roses.
3.2: Semi-hardwood cutting
Select strong branches that have bloomed, noting that blind branches that have not bloomed should not be selected. Cut the sturdy and straight semi-woody branches, with the upper cut slightly oblique for drainage, and about 1-2cm above the bud, not too close, otherwise it will cause excessive water loss in the bud, which is not good for bud preservation; the lower cut is flat or oblique near the node, and the base of the branch should be dipped in some growth regulators, such as indole acetic acid, ABT, rooting powder, etc., to promote rooting. Before cutting, make holes in the substrate, with a spacing of 3-5cm between cuttings. The depth of insertion into the substrate is 3-5cm, press after watering. The amount of watering in the subsequent management should keep the leaves on the branches from withering. Maintain the ambient temperature at 25-30℃, and it usually takes 35-40 days to root.
3.3: Hardwood cutting (also known as dormant period cutting)
After the leaves fall in autumn to early spring before germination, combine with winter pruning to take the dormant branches of the roses of the previous year, cut them into cuttings 10-15cm long with 3-4 buds, and the cutting method and cutting operation are the same as 11312. The depth of insertion into the substrate is 2/3 of the length of the cutting, which can be cut naturally without any technical treatment. Spring cuttings should use branches collected in autumn and stored in winter, and cut into cuttings before insertion.
3.4: Girdle cutting
Rose cutting, as long as the cutting period and the correct use of rooting hormones are mastered, can increase the survival rate of cutting. However, despite this, some varieties such as Hong Shuangxi, India Red, etc., are often difficult to survive if ordinary cutting methods are used. At this time, we can use the girdle cutting method for propagation. During the rose cutting season, select the current year's branches of moderate thickness, about 20cm away from the top, and make a circular cut about 0.15cm apart with a sharp knife, reaching the woody part but not injuring the woody part. Then carefully remove the bark between the two wounds. After 20 days, root nodules will grow at the girdled part, that is, callus tissue. After 25 days, cut the cutting about 0.12cm below the girdled part without any treatment. This method of cutting has a nearly 100% survival rate.
IV. Management of cuttings
The management after cutting, such as watering, moisturizing, and keeping warm, is closely related to whether the cuttings take root, the speed of root growth, and the survival rate.
Before the cuttings take root, the main management tasks are to keep warm and moist. Keeping warm mainly involves the temperature of the cutting soil and substrate. For hardwood cutting in the north, you can use the method of spreading straw, which keeps warm and moist. In the south, more shade sheds are used, which keep warm and moist, and frequent spraying can also be used to increase the humidity inside the cutting bed. When the cuttings start to root, you should gradually expose them to some scattered light, and the shade shed should be covered during the day and uncovered at night. At the same time, attention should be paid to the cleanliness and hygiene of the cutting soil to prevent the occurrence of diseases, which can be protected by spraying a low-concentration Bordeaux liquid. After rooting, when the new plants start to grow rapidly, you need to strengthen fertilization, tillage, weeding, and general pest and disease management.
In the early stage, it is also important to maintain and adjust the substrate and temperature and humidity, especially keeping the moisture. The main thing is that the cuttings should not wither. The substrate moisture can initially be maintained through measures such as covering with glass windows or plastic film, but it should be opened for ventilation in the morning and evening. Shading is also very important, especially for summer cutting. The shading material should also be covered during the day and uncovered at night. When the new roots are 2cm long, they can be transplanted. This work must be careful to prevent root damage. In the early stage, a certain temperature and humidity should still be maintained, gradually ventilated and exposed to light for exercise, and then transferred to the open-field nursery after full growth.
V. Precautions
(1) Correctly select cuttings. Cuttings should be taken from varieties with good ornamental characteristics. Otherwise, even if the cutting is successful, the ornamental value is not high.
(2) Select branches with good central crown and thick branches, and use the upper cuttings, not the too old base, otherwise it is not easy to heal and root.
(3) The length of the cutting should not be too short, generally should have 3-4 nodes, otherwise, there will be too little nutrients and it is not easy to root, and the cutting must be kept fresh.
(4) Correctly choose the substrate.
(5) Reasonably use hormones. Be sure to pay attention to the concentration of hormones and the duration of treatment, otherwise it will inhibit root growth.
(6) Adjust the ambient temperature and humidity. Be careful not to spray too much water, otherwise the base of the cutting will rot.
The above sharing of the comprehensive knowledge of rose cutting method summary, hoping to help you.