Rose cutting method summary
The editor answers some knowledge of roses for netizens, summarizes the cutting methods of roses, let's take a look!
Rose cutting is known to every rose lover, and there are various cutting methods for roses. This article mainly summarizes some conventional rose cutting methods, hoping to provide references for rose lovers who want to propagate roses by cutting.
I. Rose cutting time
1.1: Cutting in the growing period
From late March to late October during the whole growing season, cutting can be done. However, from late April to late May and from late September to late October are the golden seasons for rose cutting. If there is an automatic spray device, cutting can even be done during the high temperature season of midsummer.
1.2: Cutting in the dormant period
After the leaves fall in autumn until the early spring before the buds germinate, cut the dormant branches of the current year's roses and do the cutting in a greenhouse or a place with insulation facilities for good results. In areas south of the Yellow River, cutting can also be done in the open field in winter or early spring without any insulation facilities. The bed should face the sun and keep moist, and the survival rate is also very high.
II. Selection of substrate
The success or failure of cutting is greatly related to the substrate. It is best to choose a substrate that is well-ventilated, moisture-retaining, warm and easy to drain. Such as vermiculite, perlite, river sand, coarse slag, plant ash, sandy loam, or mix them in a certain proportion. Different substrates must be chosen for different cuttings. Sandy loam or decomposed loam should be selected for open-field seedbeds, and vermiculite, perlite, and river sand are best used as substrates in greenhouses, greenhouses, cold beds, warm beds, or flower pots. Coarse branches are best cut in decomposed loam; soft branches can be cut with sand, plant ash, or vermiculite, perlite, etc.
Ps: The highest survival rate can be achieved when the air humidity reaches about 90%.
III. Cutting methods
3.1: Cutting of new buds in spring
Newly sprouted roses produce a large number of new buds. In order to shape, some new buds often need to be thinned out. Instead of discarding them, you can perform spring bud cutting, which also has a high survival rate. When the new buds grow to about 5cm long and have not yet developed leaves and turned green, use a clean and sharp knife to cut the strong buds near the base, wash them with clean water, remove the floating water, and set them aside for use. The cutting bed is mixed with half珍珠岩 and half fine wood shavings as the cutting substrate. Spray thoroughly with a 0.15% potassium permanganate solution to compact it, which is good for sterilization and stimulating root growth. Use a bamboo chopstick slightly thicker than the new bud to make a hole, insert the bud into the hole about 1/3, and compact it. Be careful not to leave a hole in the bud base and not to injure the bud body.
After inserting, spray clean water, straighten up the inclined buds, and cover them tightly with a glass plate or plastic film to keep moisture and warmth. If covered with black plastic film, it is more conducive to healing and root growth, but it is necessary to use an elevated cutting bed or raise the pot to allow for ventilation. The bottom temperature of the substrate should be 5℃ higher than the air temperature, with 20-25℃ being the best. After 2 weeks, the buds can take root, and after 3 weeks, they can be uncovered and placed in a sunny place. Generally, they can be transplanted into pots after 4 weeks. Bud cutting has a dense base stem node, is a natural complete plant, grows fast, can bloom in the same year, and has a full and even shape with strong branching power at the base, making it easy to support strong growth for aromatic roses.
3.2: Semi-hardwood cutting
Select strong branches that have bloomed, making sure not to choose blind branches that have not bloomed. Cut the semi-woody branches that are thick and straight, with the upper incision slightly oblique for drainage and about 1-2cm above the bud, not too close, otherwise it will cause excessive water loss in the bud, which is not good for bud preservation; the lower incision is flat or oblique near the node, and the base of the branch should be dipped in some growth regulators, such as indole acetic acid, ABT, root powder, etc., to promote root growth. Make holes in the substrate before insertion, with a spacing of 3-5cm between the cuttings. The depth of insertion into the substrate is 3-5cm, press down after insertion, and spray thoroughly with water. In the following management, the amount of water sprayed is to keep the leaves on the branches from wilting. Maintain the ambient temperature at 25-30℃, and generally, roots can be formed in 35-40 days.
3.3: Hardwood cutting (also known as dormant period cutting)
After the leaves fall in autumn until early spring before the buds germinate, take the dormant branches of the roses of the previous year, cut them into cuttings 10-15cm long with 3-4 buds, and cut the method and cutting operation are the same as in 3.1.2, with the depth of insertion into the substrate being 2/3 of the full length of the cutting. It can be cut naturally without any technical treatment. For spring cutting, it is best to use branches collected in autumn and stored in winter, and cut into cuttings before planting.
3.4: Girdling cutting
Rose cutting, as long as the correct timing and proper use of rooting hormones are mastered, can increase the survival rate of cutting. However, despite this, there are still some varieties, such as Hong Shuangxi, India Red, etc., that are difficult to survive with ordinary cutting methods. In this case, we can use the girdling cutting method for propagation. During the rose cutting season, select branches of the current year with moderate thickness, about 20cm away from the top of the branch, and make a circular cut above and below with a sharp knife, reaching the xylem but not injuring it, with a distance of about 0.15cm between the two wounds, then gently remove the bark and peel it off completely. After 20 days, root tumor-like protrusions, i.e., callus tissue, will grow at the girdling site. After 25 days, cut the cutting about 0.12cm below the girdling site without any treatment, and this method has almost a 100% survival rate when cut.
IV. Management of cuttings
The management after cutting, such as watering, moisturizing, and keeping warm, is greatly related to whether the cuttings take root, the speed of root growth, and the survival rate.
Before the cuttings take root, the main tasks are to keep warm and moist. Keeping warm mainly refers to the temperature of the cutting soil and substrate. For hardwood cutting in the north, straw mulching can be used, which keeps warm and moist. In the south, shade tents are often used, which keep warm and moist, and frequent spraying can also be used to increase the humidity in the cutting bed. When the roots start to grow, it is necessary to gradually expose them to some scattered light, and the shade tent should be covered during the day and uncovered at night. At the same time, attention should be paid to the cleanliness and hygiene of the cutting soil to prevent the occurrence of diseases, and a low-concentration Bordeaux mixture can be sprayed for protection. After the roots have grown, when the new plants start to grow rapidly, it is necessary to strengthen fertilization, tillage, weeding, and pest and disease control, as well as other general normal management practices.
In the early stage, it is also important to maintain and adjust the substrate and temperature and humidity, especially keeping the moisture is more important. mainly the cuttings should not wither. The substrate moisture can be initially controlled by covering with glass windows or plastic film, but it should be opened for ventilation in the morning and evening. Shading is also very important, especially for summer cutting, and the shading material should also be covered during the day and uncovered at night. When the new roots are 2cm long, they can be transplanted. This work must be careful to prevent root injury. In the early stage, a certain temperature and humidity should still be maintained, gradually ventilating and exposing to light for exercise, and then transferred to the open-field nursery after full growth.
V. Precautions
(1) Correctly choose the cuttings. Cuttings should be taken from varieties with good ornamental characteristics. Otherwise, even if the cutting is successful, the ornamental value is not high.
(2) Choose branches with good central crown and top growth, and use the upper cuttings, not the too old base, otherwise it is not easy to heal and root.
(3) The length of the cuttings should not be too short, generally should have 3-4 nodes, otherwise, there is too little nutrients, not easy to root, and the cuttings must be kept fresh.
(4) Correctly choose the substrate.
(5) Reasonably use hormones. Pay special attention to the concentration and treatment time of hormones, otherwise it will inhibit root growth.
(6) Adjust the ambient temperature and humidity. Be careful not to spray too much water, otherwise the base of the cuttings will rot.
The above is a summary of the cutting methods of roses, for everyone to learn and understand!