Rose cutting methods
The web tells everyone about the knowledge of roses, rose cutting methods, and the following will introduce them together.
There are many versions of rose cutting methods, and they all work very well. Each method has its own advantages, and the method discussed here is called the Vermiculite Tray Method. Before introducing the method, let's talk about the advantages of this method.
1. Simple, you just need to buy some vermiculite, and the tools needed for the method can be found in daily life.
2. This method is a combination of soil cutting and water cutting, maintaining the high root formation rate of water cutting while avoiding the low survival rate of transplanting and the slow root growth of certain varieties.
3. It is easy to manage, you don't need to buy a set of misting equipment, nor do you need to worry about whether you have watered today. You don't need to change the water frequently like water cutting, and you don't have to worry about whether to pinch the buds or not. The only thing you need to do is to add water to the tray when there is no water and wait for the roots to grow, which is suitable for lazy people and those who don't have time.
4. It can be used all year round. Spring and autumn are不用说, even in the hot summer, it still ensures a high survival rate. I'm talking about the final survival rate. If it's just about root formation, that's not a problem. (There is no winter in Hainan, so I don't know about winter conditions)
5. The success rate is very high, you can say you basically don't need to worry about success. This method has helped many people from the bar who couldn't grow them to move to Earth. Soon you will be annoyed with cutting because you have too many cuttings, just like me now.
The tools needed for this rose cutting are:
1. Vermiculite, any vermiculite will do, coarse or fine, I initially used fine, later switched to coarse, both work, but if you don't have any, buy coarse.
2. Transparent disposable cups and plastic bowls will do. Why transparent? This is one of the reasons I came up with version 2.0. I've tried other opaque things like seedling trays, and I feel they are not as stable and fast as transparent cups in root formation. The key is that transparent cups can see the root growth. Burn a hole in the bottom of the cup and bowl with a lighter.
3. A container for holding water, I used to use a flowerpot tray, but actually anything that can hold water will do.
Cutting steps:
1. After burning a hole in the cup, fill it with vermiculite and place it in a tray filled with water. If you have time, let the vermiculite absorb water slowly, if you are in a hurry, pour water on top to quickly soak the vermiculite.
2. Insert the cut branches into the vermiculite, then place them in a place with diffused light or sunlight outdoors (a must condition) and add water when there is no water. When the roots extend to almost the bottom of the cup, transplant them.
3. For the cut branches, cut one branch per bud. I know other methods might say two or three are better, but this method doesn't need to worry about success, so do it in the most economical way.
Question 1: Do you need to change the water?
Answer: No, just add water when there is no water.
Question 2: How long does it take to root?
Answer: Different varieties have different rooting speeds, and temperature is also a key factor affecting root growth. Basically, the higher the temperature, the faster the root growth, and the lower the temperature, the slower the root growth. However, most varieties will have roots extending to the bottom of the cup in about 20 days. The fastest I've seen is 7 days, and the slowest is about a month.
Question 3: Why emphasize the roots extending to the bottom of the cup?
Answer: Because the longer the roots, the easier it is to transplant and the higher the survival rate.
Question 4: What is the success rate?
Answer: You can say that you don't need to worry about the success rate at all. Before transplanting from the cup, the success rate is almost 100%. If the branches are diseased, such as powdery mildew branches, it will affect the success rate. In the worst batch I had, when powdery mildew broke out, the success rate was still over 80%. As for transplanting, it's always over 90% every year, even with a large number of transplants. The mortality rate is less than 10%, and the most conservative is still 80%. The death of transplants can usually be found, and if avoided, there will be no problem at all.
Question 5: Do you need to use root powder?
Answer: This method is already fast enough for root formation (if the temperature is enough), and using root powder won't make it faster. I've tried Guanguang's root powder, and it didn't show faster results than using it. The mortality rate of that batch was very high, so I stopped using it. I only tried that batch, and if you think it works better, you can use it.
This article shares a detailed explanation of the rose cutting method. I hope this article can bring you help in green plant management!