Knowledge of Cold Protection for Succulent Plants in Winter
Let me share with you some experience about succulent plants, the knowledge of cold protection for succulent plants. Next, let the editor introduce to netizens.
With the arrival of the severe cold of winter, the warming and cold protection of indoor plants has become a very important topic. This is the same for both succulent plants and other ornamental plants. Outdoor gardening plants are not mentioned. However, most parts of northern China have centralized indoor heating, while the average temperature in the south is generally not below zero in winter. Therefore, as long as you master the correct maintenance methods, it should not be too difficult to safely survive the winter. (The following plan is for reference only)
Why do we need to protect against the cold?
I mentioned before the response of succulent plants to temperature, that is, the description of the "suitable temperature range" for succulent plants, and I would like to quote it again here. The so-called "winter dormancy period" of succulent plants, I think it should be more appropriate to call it a "low-temperature response".
Because the high-temperature dormancy in summer is an adaptive biological mechanism evolved by succulent plants in their native environment over a long period of time, it is a kind of "self-protection mechanism" evolved to resist high temperature and heat. Think about it, most succulent plants grow in areas with high temperatures and dryness all year round, where the annual temperature is impossible to approach zero, let alone snowfall. Therefore, succulent plants will not evolve a "winter dormancy period" biological mechanism in their native habitat.
So why do potted succulent plants also show similar dormancy symptoms in winter? This is simple, it is because most plants will show symptoms of slow or stagnant growth and reduced biological activity in low-temperature environments, and many plants will die below zero degrees (freezing point). Only some plants have good cold resistance, such as plants in high-latitude and subarctic regions.
For example, don't people's hands and feet become stiff and outdoor activities decrease in winter?
Usually, there are three basic points for plant growth in response to temperature: the lowest temperature, the optimal temperature, and the highest temperature. Exceeding the highest temperature will cause heat damage to the plant. Below the lowest temperature, the plant will suffer from cold damage. Therefore, the similar dormancy symptoms of succulent plants in winter are actually a kind of "low-temperature response" that most plants have, and it is completely different from the "physiological dormancy period" of succulent plants under high-temperature conditions in summer. Do not confuse the two. If you can provide a warm and suitable temperature in winter, it will still grow vigorously. Therefore, I personally think that the classification of succulent plant "winter type" and "summer type" is very unrigorous. I suggest that flower friends should not distinguish maintenance methods according to this type classification. Moreover, being overwhelmed by these classifications will make you dizzy. The reason is actually very simple, it's all about temperature! Temperature! Temperature!
How does cold damage occur?
Cold damage includes chilling and freezing. Chilling is the damage to plants caused by low temperatures above the freezing point, and freezing is the damage to plants caused by low temperatures below the freezing point. Many tropical and subtropical plants cannot tolerate low temperatures above the freezing point. The adaptability of plants to low temperatures above the freezing point is called "cold resistance". Many succulent plants also have poor "cold resistance", and there is a possibility of death even if the temperature is between 15°C and 0°C. Therefore, humidity is very important when it is cold. In a maintenance environment where the average temperature is below 15°C, it is necessary to properly reduce the humidity of the succulent plant substrate and the air. If you still water frequently at this time, it will exacerbate the harm.
According to the speed of plant response to cold damage, cold damage can be divided into two categories: direct injury and indirect injury. Direct injury refers to the appearance of injury spots within a few hours after the plant is affected by low temperature, indicating that the impact has invaded the cells and directly destroyed the activity of the protoplasm. Indirect injury mainly refers to the damage caused by metabolic disorders due to low temperature. The plant morphology appears normal after low temperature, and it takes at least five or six days to show symptoms such as soft tissue and wilt. These changes are caused by slow physiological and biochemical changes after metabolic disorders, not directly caused by low temperature.
What kind of reactions will low temperature cause in plants?
The impact of low temperature on plants is not only reflected in external morphology, but more importantly, in the剧烈 physiological and biochemical changes that occur in cells.
1. Cell membranes are damaged, and a large amount of solutes leak out of the membrane. (This is also why frost-injured plants become watery)
2. The flow of cell protoplasm slows down or stops. (Basically solidifies below the freezing point)
3. Water metabolism is disorders. After the plant is harmed by low temperature, its water absorption capacity and transpiration rate significantly decrease, especially the water absorption capacity of the roots. After a cold wave, the leaves, leaves, and branches of the plant often become dry and even shed organs. These are all caused by disorders in water metabolism.
4. The rate of photosynthesis decreases. After low temperature injury, protein synthesis is less than degradation, chloroplasts break down at an accelerated rate, the content of chlorophyll decreases, and enzyme activity is affected, thus significantly reducing the rate of photosynthesis.
5. Respiration rate fluctuates significantly. When plants are first affected by low temperature, the respiration rate is higher than normal. Because respiration produces more heat, it is beneficial for resistance to cold. But after a long time, the respiration rate decreases significantly, because the protoplasm stops flowing, oxygen (O2) is insufficient, and anaerobic respiration accounts for a larger proportion. Especially for plants or varieties that are not cold-tolerant, the phenomenon of significant fluctuations in respiration rate is particularly obvious.
6. The breakdown of organic matter predominates. After the plant is harmed by low temperature, hydrolysis is greater than synthesis, not only does protein breakdown intensify, the number and types of free amino acids increase, but many biopolymers also decrease. After cold damage, the plant accumulates many intermediate products that are toxic to cells.
Winter Cold Protection Plan for Home Ornamental Plants
In China, the heating dividing line is usually consistent with the north-south dividing line. In the 1950s, when relevant national departments formulated heating specifications, considering the economy and climate conditions at the time, they stipulated that the area south of the Qinling Mountains and the Huai River is a "non-heating area". Although times have changed, this regulation has not been modified. Southern friends know that it is more torturous to spend the winter in the south than in the north. In addition, the relative humidity of the air in the south is relatively high in winter, which makes it even worse. In the south, indoor heating can only rely on electric heating conversion equipment, and electricity bills also skyrocket. Northern flower friends are much happier, while southern flower friends need to pay more attention to controlling humidity to prevent frostbite from wet cold.
I. Utilization of Heating
Here, I have to remind you especially that northern flower friends should never think that they can put plants on or near radiators for maintenance, as this will directly cause the plants to dehydrate and die. Because radiators are like a "dryer", the strong evaporation they produce will consume all the water in the plant cells, and the plant will be "roasted to death". Therefore, never do good deeds that result in harm! However, for winter sowing or cutting, you can make good use of heating to assist. The prerequisite is to use a sealed (boxed) seedling box, and you cannot use an open seedling container! For the same reason! And it must be kept at a certain distance from the radiator. The temperature above the radiator and the surface temperature is very high. Therefore, it is best to place a thermometer next to the seedling box to control the temperature range for seeding and cutting. Even if you need to move the potted plants on the balcony to the indoors for warmth, they must be placed away from the radiator. And it is best to cover the plant with a transparent plastic bag to maintain the humidity of the air, or place a pot of water nearby. As we all know, the air relative humidity in a heated house is very low and dry, so it is best to buy a household humidifier. This is beneficial for both the human body and the plants. Make good use of heating, and don't let it become a killer!
II. Other Home Heating Equipment
In addition to central heating, many home "electric heat conversion equipment" can have the same function. However, it is still necessary to consider the adverse effects of heat on plants and to maintain a proper distance, etc. For example, electric heaters, electric fans, heaters, etc. This is actually indirect cold protection, which can only be said to first use heating equipment to raise the indoor temperature and then move the plants indoors for cold protection and warmth. It is not suitable to directly increase the temperature of the plants or heat them up closely.
III. Multi-purpose Small Heating Equipment
There are several small devices that can be recommended. The first is a heating pad. It is usually used for pets and reptiles, and this kind of heating pad is designed to be waterproof, anti-leakage, and fireproof. It is best to buy one with a built-in thermostat that can adjust the temperature. The power of such heating pads is very low and does not produce strong baking. The temperature can basically be adjusted between 0°C and 30°C. Some small succulent potted plants can be placed on them to increase the temperature, but the heating area will not be too large, and if the pot is too large, it will basically have no effect. This kind of heating pad is especially suitable for seeding and cutting because of its low power and adjustable temperature. Controlling the temperature at 20°C to 25°C is effective for germination and root growth. Since this kind of heating pad has weak thermal conductivity, it cannot transfer heat to the air at a distance, only contact heat transfer, so you can adjust the temperature a bit higher. Be sure to observe the condition of the seedlings and any adverse reactions in a timely manner and ventilate frequently.
The second is a heating wire, also known as a rope heater, electromagnetic heating wire, electric heating wire, etc. Its power is much higher than that of a heating pad. The heating wire uses resistance material as the heat source, which means that the wire itself will generate heat. The outer layer of the heating wire is covered with a soft and insulated, flame-retardant material. Heating wires are generally used to make various home or industrial electrical auxiliary heating elements. According to the material, it can be divided into ceramic heating wires, carbon fiber heating wires, silicone rubber heating wires, PVC heating wires, etc. You can buy ready-made heating wires with switches and thermostats, or you can buy them separately and make them yourself. This kind of heating wire is also commonly used for pet warming, agricultural greenhouse warming, engineering decoration, etc.
The following is an introduction to a heating wire + insulation box insulation plan, but you need to make it yourself! The size of the box can vary depending on the situation, and there are many material options.
The third is UVA heating lamps (long-wave ultraviolet radiation lamps) also used for pets and reptiles. But they can also be used for plant cold protection and warming, and can provide additional lighting while warming. UVA lamps can provide some long-wave ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used for supplementary lighting on cloudy days, but the effect is limited compared to natural sunlight (full-spectrum ultraviolet radiation), so you cannot rely solely on UVA lamps for lighting.
Most UVA lamps have very high heat output. Be careful not to touch them with your hands when they are turned on to prevent burns. It is recommended to buy bulbs with a lower wattage. And be extra careful about the distance from the plants when using them. The appropriate distance between the bulb and the plant needs to be determined through repeated adjustments and observations. Do not install them too close and use them directly after watering, because water droplets remaining on the leaves can collect light and cause leaf burns, and this kind of burn is more severe than sunburn. UVA heating lamps come in tube and bulb shapes. It is also recommended to connect a thermostat for easy adjustment. You can find them in pet reptile supply stores (Taobao, CS). Be careful to distinguish between counterfeit goods and similar products, and don't easily believe the various powerful effects claimed by the sellers. Our goal is only to increase the temperature and provide a small amount of supplementary lighting. After buying the UVA bulb, get a lampshade, lamp base, and power switch separately, preferably one that can be fixed or clamped.
In addition to heating equipment, creating a relatively closed and insulated environment is also very important. For example, the self-made insulation box mentioned above. The insulation box plan can also vary greatly! Flexible application is the key, and here are just three introduced.
Foam is also a good insulating material. You must have seen street vendors using foam boxes to hold ice cream and hot steamed buns.
The method of making a foam insulation box is simple. Place a heating pad at the bottom of the box and cover the top with a transparent glass, and a small family plant greenhouse is made. Also, remember to remind you that the insulation box must leave at least one side open for采光, and it should not be completely dark and airtight! Therefore, the more transparent the box, the better. A box with poor lighting will result in plant etiolation. If photosynthesis cannot occur, even if you do a good job of insulation, it will still die. Moreover, even without a heating pad, the foam box material can still provide cold protection in winter due to its good constant temperature performance, although the temperature will not rise.
Additionally, customized glass jars, storage boxes, and unused fish tanks can all be used as insulation box containers.
When making such insulation boxes, be sure to open them for ventilation and airtightness every day. Do not keep them closed for a long time. Plants cannot breathe and exchange air. In addition, high humidity in a closed environment can easily cause the breeding of diseases and rot bacteria, so be sure to spray disinfectant regularly. It is best to place a "temperature and humidity meter" inside the insulation box.
Finally, I still want to mention the concept I always advocate. All artificial hardware conditions are only supplementary and not essential for growing flowers. If you need it, you create the conditions. If it's not necessary, you let it be natural. It doesn't mean that if you have all the equipment, you can definitely grow flowers well, nor does it mean that I write these articles to tell you to follow them exactly. This is just a solution to a problem. If your indoor maintenance environment temperature is sufficient, there is no need to go to such trouble, and you should only do what is applicable to your specific situation.
Nature is the best gardener! From another perspective, it also conforms to Darwin's theory of evolution, survival of the fittest.
The above () introduces the knowledge of cold protection for succulent plants in winter, which can bring you some help in life!