Succulent Soil Mixture Scheme
A comprehensive introduction to the knowledge of succulent plants, including soil mixture schemes for succulent plants, with specific content as follows:
Every hobbyist who just started planting succulents always wants to find the most perfect or ideal soil mixture for succulents. In fact, there is no such thing as the most perfect soil mixture; only the one that suits you best can be suitable for the growth of succulent plants as long as it can achieve loose and breathable, good drainage, and certain granular structure, and be sterile. Of course, different varieties of succulent plants may have slightly different requirements for soil mixture, but as long as the general principles are grasped, the problems generally won't be too big. The following has selected soil mixture schemes from many succulent enthusiasts, hoping that you can find the one that suits you from them and improve it in practice to configure the most suitable soil mixture for your succulent plants.
No. 1 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
No matter which planting material you choose or how you mix it, it must meet the basic requirements of the plant and consider various situations flexibly.
1. Mix according to the cultivation site: the soil for ground planting and pot planting is different. Ground planting should consider the drainage more and add materials with strong drainage, such as gravel. Pot planting should properly supplement organic matter on the principle of ensuring loose and breathable soil. If planted on the south-facing balcony, it should also consider the characteristics of relatively dry and sufficient sunlight and add some substrates with strong water retention, such as vermiculite and coconut husk.
2. Mix according to different species: different species may be "quite different" in soil mixture. For example, epiphytic species need a certain amount of humus, while some terrestrial species with poor soil in their native habitats and underdeveloped roots have lower requirements for humus. Not only do different families require different soil, but even different genera within the same family have different soil requirements. Taking the Chinese aloe and cow's tongue in the lily family as examples, the former is aloe, vigorous and fast-growing, and can add sufficient base fertilizer to the bottom of the pot. The latter is a plant of the genus Haworthia, grows slowly, and basically does not need base fertilizer.
3. Mix according to different cultivation areas: the climate in the north is dry, which requires certain moisture retention ability of the soil; while the south has abundant rainfall and high air humidity, which requires higher drainage and ventilation of the soil.
4. Mix according to different growth stages: seedlings have underdeveloped roots, the content of organic matter should be slightly less, the soil should be mainly light materials combined with some fine sand, and then gradually increase the content of organic matter.
5. About succulent media.
No. 2 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
Soil mixture is not just a few grand theories. The following formulas can be referenced:
1. 8 parts of stone, 2 parts of fairy soil, and a little bit of shell powder (suitable for growing Lithops).
2. 10 parts of coarse sand, 2 parts of sawdust, 1 part of base fertilizer, and 1 part of garden soil (suitable for ground planting).
3. 1 part of leaf mold, 1 part of peat, 2 parts of coarse sand, 1 part of light material, and a little bit of base fertilizer (suitable for growing epiphytic species).
4. 3 parts of pond stone, 2 parts of fairy soil, 1 part of light material, and 1 part of peat (suitable for growing hard-leafed varieties of Echeveria).
5. 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of leaf mold, 4 parts of coarse sand, 1 part of light material, and half a part of rice husk ash (suitable for growing ordinary terrestrial species).
No. 3 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
Cultivation materials, perlite, peat, plant ash, coal cinders 1~2mm in diameter, Akadama, Kanuma, fine river sand, vermiculite. The more varieties, the better.
1. First, use large stones to cushion the bottom layer, as everyone knows.
2. Use perlite to fill in the gaps.
3. Start laying layers, remember, every layer of particles, should lay a layer of peat to fill in the gaps.
4. Every layer should be super thin, just enough to cover the next one. Layer by layer, do not be lazy and make a layer thicker.
This method utilizes the interlocking property of the media. The main ones are peat and 1~2mm coal cinders, which should be used more. Coal cinders are the best medium for Lithops to take root, and peat can provide nutrition in coal cinders. The interlocking property makes the coagulation of the medium after wetting, different media layers laid layer by layer, so that individuals are no longer individuals, but a whole, "no matter how fierce it can't be fierce". It is found that the main root is relatively thick, and the capillary root is good!
No. 4 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
For seedling succulents, a relatively reasonable soil mixture method is:
Peat soil 60% + Sand 20% + Granules 20%. If river sand cannot be found, all can be replaced with granules.
The granules can be perlite, pumice, honeycomb coal, ceramsite, stones, etc.
For mature plants (referring to succulents over 2 years old), the soil mixture method is also similar, just increase the proportion of sand and granules a bit.
Peat soil + sand + granules 1:1:1 This proportion is very suitable. If you want the succulents to grow fatter, you need to change to a deeper and larger flowerpot.
No. 5 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
1. Garden soil, humus soil. The most common cultivation substrate, with the advantage of being cheap, but the disadvantage of being too fine, needs to be sieved, and there may be insect eggs and bacteria.
2. Perlite, lightweight stone. Used for ventilation, these two can be completely replaced, the more expensive ones have better effects, and there is no need to use ordinary ones.
3. Lan stone, planting stone. Also used for ventilation and water permeability. The former is more cost-effective, and the latter has better effects.
4. Ceramsite, broken bricks, coal cinders. They are all made of clay after sintering, relatively breathable, absorbent, and cheap, but hard.
5. Peat, water moss. They are all made of moss or swamp plants, with strong water absorption and also breathable. Too much is easy to rot, but moderate amount is very useful. They can also be used specifically for root development, which is also good.
The amount of 1 and 4 should be less, and the ratio of 2 to 3 can be close.
No. 6 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
Sedum soil mixture, I think the proportion of peat soil or sod peat soil can be slightly higher, supplemented with humus soil, river sand, perlite, vermiculite, etc., to promote root development and vigorous growth, add an appropriate amount of rice husk charcoal, bone meal, sterilizing agent, etc. to the soil; watering should be decided according to the weather and plant growth, dry and wet. Pay more attention to those with good growth and management. Most of those with poor growth are actually in dormancy, so it's better to manage less.
Soil mixture: screened honeycomb coal cinder + garden soil + fairy soil + sand + bone meal + shell powder + eggshell + ceramsite + Lan stone + activated carbon, sieve out the dust and plant. Full sunlight maintenance, watering when dry and wet. Add rotten chicken manure at the bottom of the pot. The pot should be small, the soil should be less and loose. Water after a few days of drying, more exposure. Less watering in midsummer, most succulents of the Crassulaceae family need to hibernate or semi-hibernate in summer.
For strong spiny balls like Echinocactus, ordinary flower mud + coal ball ash + bone meal can be used, and watering once a month is enough.
Balls: ordinary flower mud + coal ball ash (screened into granular) + vermiculite + an appropriate amount of bone meal.
Succulent plants with thick and fleshy roots (such as Haworthia): Lan stone + fairy soil + an appropriate amount of bone meal.
Other succulent plants: ordinary flower mud + leaf mold + snake wood + vermiculite + an appropriate amount of bone meal.
No. 7 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
For Sedum, 30% peat, 30% pumice (light stone, including yellow sandy loam soil) + 30% broken bricks (scattered bricks, taking particles with a diameter of 1-4mm) + fertilizer. Likes more water.
The stone in the illustration does not have peat, only a little fertilizer is needed. Just pumice, sand, and broken bricks, pay attention to less water, but likes bright light and air circulation.
I personally think that volcanic stone coal cinder can replace broken bricks, just a personal feeling.
No. 8 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
After using the self-prepared sowing substrate, I feel it's okay, and I post it for everyone to share.
The substrate is composed of 6 different media:
1. Coal cinder; 2. A kind of volcanic rock, Ailan Duo; 3. Light stone; 4. Meal stone; 5. Rice husk carbon (micro particles after screening); 6. Danish Pindstrup peat soil (1-3mm). Refer to the ultra-precise succulent sowing tutorial.
No. 9 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
The cheapest is coal cinder sod peat perlite.
A large amount of coal cinder + a small amount of peat.
Coal cinder, sand, and humus soil, the proportion of coal cinder is large.
2 parts of peat + 7 parts of coal cinder + 1 part of rice husk carbon + a small amount of bone meal.
No. 10 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
Peat: perlite: small granule light stone = 1:1:1, add a small amount of charcoal particles, plant ash, bone meal, slow-release fertilizer.
The surface soil mixture formula is as follows, with a particle size of 3-6mm:
Rainbow stone: Akadama soil: deer moss soil: cylindrical peat soil = 1:1:1:1
This surface soil mixture not only meets the requirements of aesthetics and breathability, but also meets the requirements of succulent growth. I recommend it to everyone.
No. 11 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
3mm Lan stone + peat 2:1, suitable for cultivating any succulent plant.
No. 12 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
Soil: water retention and breathability, find a balance point, no waterlogging, need to be breathable, my usual formula (Jinan), sod peat, perlite, vermiculite, light stone 1:1:1:1, the proportion is not strict. If these things cannot be found, you can use Cuiyun beautiful soil mixed with small particle Lan stone or planting stone or other granular things, beautiful soil is a kind of composite medium, but for succulents, it is a bit too water-retaining, so add some granules to balance it. Be cautious when buying that kind of nutrition soil that is two pieces per pack, the quality is not guaranteed.
No. 13 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
Coal cinder is a commonly used ingredient, but almost all slag contains sulfur. Succulent plants are not allergic to sulfur, and sulfur has the effect of sterilization and pest control. From years of planting comparison, plants with slag are more resistant than those without slag, and are not prone to root rot and root mealybugs. The slag used is fully burned original coal slag (whether it contains unburned coal is not important), and honeycomb coal slag is the second best. Honeycomb coal slag contains a lot of soil, and if used, it should be crushed and sieved. The slag should be soaked in water before use to remove dust and alkalinity. For more about slag, you can refer to the advantages and disadvantages of using slag to plant succulents and the whole process of using slag to plant Lithops.
Using eggshell, the proportion of eggshell is 1/4, which works well. Eggshell is a good breathable and water-permeable planting material, which is very useful for increasing soil permeability, and can also increase calcium content. The eggshell should be crushed into 2-3mm.
Generally, garden soil accounts for about 1/4, and sand accounts for about 1/3. However, garden soil and sand have dust, and there are also brick particles, vermiculite, perlite, Lan stone, slag, etc., which must be sieved and repeatedly washed before use.
The components of the substrate do not have to be strictly according to what experts list, nor do they have to be single components, but the more varieties and the more complex, the better. For example, if you have brick particles, vermiculite, perlite, Lan stone, slag, etc., then use them all, and the total amount is controlled at about 1/3. For example, eggshell, clam shell, bone meal, old lime, carbonized rice husk, etc., which contain calcium, are also available, then use some of each, and the total amount is controlled at about 10-20%. Different substrates have different physical functions and different nutritional components, and using more varieties is definitely better than single components.
No matter which ingredients are used, they must be exposed to the sun for several days before use.
Add more non-soil fillers at the bottom of the flowerpot to make a drainage layer, arrange several layers of water particles of different sizes, the largest at the bottom. After placing the drainage material, put coarse particle ingredients first, then fine particle ingredients, after placing the plant, lift the plant slightly while adding soil to make the roots spread out, do not add the soil too full at one time, tamp the soil evenly along the edge of the pot, and finally tap the pot lightly to make the soil flat.
No. 14 Succulent Enthusiast's Soil Mixture:
The soil mixture ratio is: peat soil 10%-20% + sand 20% + granules 60%-80%
The proportion does not require too strict control, in short, it is to increase the proportion of granules in the soil, but I do not recommend using granules completely.
I always feel that having some soil and some nutrients will be better for succulents, just a personal opinion.
About the problems that may be caused by too large particles in succulent soil mixture:
Too large particle medium does not retain water, and with the fine peat at the bottom, it leads to polarization in the pot, the upper layer of granules does not retain water, the roots are not easy to grow out, but cannot adhere, and watering is less frequent, leading to repeated root growth and inability to absorb nutrients, the plant consumes nutrients all the time, and the leaves wither one by one.
After the increase of granules, water loss is faster, and the absorption capacity of succulents decreases, so they will consume their own leaves to (G-Y) nutrients. Therefore, the bottom leaves will gradually dry out and fall off over time