Succulent Hoya Carnosa Care Experience
Today's little experience sharing: The knowledge topic of succulent plant Hoya Carnosa, the cultivation experience of Hoya Carnosa, the editor of this site will introduce to everyone.
If the cultivation experience of Hoya Carnosa is too theoretical for flower lovers, it is not very helpful, but if it is experience, it is different. Hoya Carnosa is a common succulent plant. Many flower lovers' first pot of succulent is Hoya Carnosa. It is not difficult to keep it alive, but it takes a lot of effort to keep it well. Let's see what the flower lovers have for the cultivation experience of Hoya Carnosa.
First lecture: Temperature difference
Flower lovers often complain about smoggy days, no sunshine, etc., but I personally think that there should be a temperature difference first, because the temperature difference plays a very important role. Most physical and chemical reactions follow a principle that high temperature reaction is large, and low temperature reaction is low. Plants are also like this. The temperature is high during the day, which can intensify the photosynthetic reaction and generate organic matter. At night, plants enter a pure consumption stage and begin to consume internally. If the temperature is high, the internal consumption is high, otherwise it is low.
I personally feel that the temperature difference is controlled between 10℃-20℃ is better, with 10℃-15℃ at night and 25℃-32℃ during the day is the best. Although Hoya Carnosa can withstand low temperature of 5℃, it is best to keep it around 10℃ for better growth. In terms of high temperature, it is not recommended to be higher than 35℃. Although it is not its extreme temperature, the higher the temperature above 30℃, the higher the probability of black rot occurrence.
When there is sunshine, the temperature difference between morning and evening will naturally occur due to sunlight. But on cloudy days, if the temperature difference can be maintained, it can maintain the plant type and not scatter in a short time. Some plants grow like a monkey jumping to the sky, which is not only because of the lack of sunshine, but also because the temperature difference is not in place. Because even on cloudy days, light will still penetrate through the clouds and fall on the leaves, and plants can still perform photosynthesis, but it is not as strong as direct sunlight (if it can't penetrate the cloud layer, the day should be black). The temperature difference allows the plant to maintain the basic plant type, even if it is a dwarf, it is slower than that without temperature difference. If it is cloudy and no temperature difference, the dwarf only takes a few days, not a pancake or a skirt.
Under natural conditions, the temperature difference between spring and autumn is relatively large. As the old saying goes, "the second and eighth months are chaotic clothes", of course, this second and eighth month refers to the lunar calendar, when the temperature difference is the largest, and it is also the time when various succulents show their state. At this time, whether in the forum or in the group, there are all kinds of state display. Summer and winter are not hot in the south or frozen in the north. If you want to make a temperature difference, you can only rely on artificial methods. In summer, hang water curtains and in winter, cover cotton quilts. Of course, this is only the practice in greenhouses. Those without greenhouses, please go home to turn on the air conditioner and cover with warm air. At this time, the temperature difference is not important, and survival is the hard truth.
Second lecture: Light
Good light state, many people say that there is no condition to expose to the sun, and the house is separated by glass without ultraviolet rays. Here I feel that it is also fine to be separated by glass. Glass may filter out ultraviolet rays, but it is impossible to filter out all of them. Even if you expose to the sun through glass, you will also get sunburned. Ordinary glass can block more than 90% of ultraviolet rays with wavelengths less than 300nm, but it can let more than 90% of ultraviolet rays with wavelengths greater than 350nm pass through. For ultraviolet rays with wavelengths between 350~300nm, the blocking effect is between 10~90%. Unlike ordinary glass, quartz glass and silicon dioxide glass can allow ultraviolet rays to pass through, such as ultraviolet lamp cover. Only optical glass with added lead and colored glass with polarizing filter layer can isolate ultraviolet rays.
Ultraviolet rays have two functions, one is to inhibit the dwarfing of plants, and the other is to have a certain coloring effect, but other lights also have coloring effect. My flowers before were also placed behind glass, and there was no difference. So personally, I feel that ultraviolet rays have a certain effect, but it is not a necessary effect. It's better to have it, and it doesn't matter if you don't have it. Besides, I seem to have seen a set of experiments on the Internet before, saying that there were three groups of experimental products, one group of sunlight, one group of artificial light, and one group of ultraviolet light. The result was that the group of ultraviolet light died on the third day, which was no different from suicide. However, ultraviolet rays also have bactericidal effect. It's not bad to use it to illuminate the soil. Its bactericidal principle is mainly to act on the DNA of microorganisms, destroy the DNA structure, and make them lose the function of reproduction and self-replication, so as to achieve the purpose of sterilization and disinfection. However, it is limited to some bacteria, not all can be killed. It can kill bacterial vegetative bodies, spores, mycobacteria, coronaviruses, fungi, rickettsiae and chlamydiae, etc., but for black rot, it can only be described as "natural and egg".
Let's talk about shading again. I feel that Hoya Carnosa does not need shading, but there is a premise, that is, step by step, from shade to full exposure, such as shading for half a month, the second day in the morning out for a while of sunshine, the third day cloudy to sunny, the fourth day full sunshine, but not hot sunshine, such as step by step the fifth day exposure is also okay, shade for a month, the second day exposure, must sunburn, just like a person who hasn't eaten for a few days, at first can only eat porridge, you give him a big pork leg at once, maybe his life is not guaranteed.
I personally feel that Hoya Carnosa has a great demand for light, and Hoya Carnosa has a strong phototropism. If the light is sufficient, the leaves will be thicker and slightly bluish, the leaves will be tightly packed, the single-head plant stem will not be too large, but the number of layers will be many. If the light is insufficient, the leaves will be thin, the leaves will be loose and spread out, so if possible, it is best to have full sunshine, and it is best to achieve half sunshine without conditions. If conditions permit, it is better to expose to the sun, otherwise it is the balcony. The south balcony is the preferred choice. If there is no south balcony, put it where there is light.
The Hoya Carnosa in the figure below has sufficient light, with a diameter of about 8CM, thick leaves, dense layers, and thick powder on the leaf surface, which is biased towards blue.
The Hoya Carnosa in the figure below has insufficient light, with a diameter of about 12CM, thin leaves, scattered layers, and less powder on the leaf surface, with a green hue.
Third lecture: Soil
Hoya Carnosa is more casual in using soil, with no special requirements. Any kind of soil can survive. I have seen people who use soil directly, and use river sand for decoration, which can grow well. But I think the soil should be different for different people and different environments. The south is wet and the north is dry. Greenhouse cultivation and indoor cultivation are different, so the soil used is also different. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
First of all, garden soil, that is, soil, can be obtained at any time. There are many places under the community building, in the wild, endless. This kind of soil is generally rich in nutrients and humus, but also contains various bacteria, insects and eggs. It is best to disinfect at high temperature once, use a high fire microwave oven to microwave it. This kind of soil generally does not need to apply fertilizer again, and it is enough to change the soil regularly every year. The Hoya Carnosa in the figure below is planted directly with garden soil.
Whether this kind of soil is really useful, it depends on individual opinions. There is no absolute good or bad. Garden soil is in the form of surface, which almost fills all the space in the pot. There is almost no breathability, and it will harden quickly after several watering. Moreover, I personally feel that Hoya Carnosa planted with garden soil has more root knots (root knots, that is, lumps on the roots). For those who have little planting experience and no greenhouse, it is best not to use garden soil. Garden soil planted Hoya Carnosa is generally more in bulk greenhouse planting. Its main purpose is still to save planting costs. In terms of the wholesale price of single head, there is not much profit, but it is very easy to die, so bulk planting is still based on economy.
Grain planting, I often use, because it is easy to remove soil, someone wants to pull it out simply, remove soil is not easy to hurt the roots, dry for one day can pack express, with garden soil planted, remove soil for half a day not all kinds of tools, with buckle with sweep, soil is dry also easy to point, just watered remove soil, is unable to start, also have to dry while remove soil, dry shipment also need 2 days, peat coconut husk I feel more difficult to remove soil than garden soil, peat coconut husk are fiber planting materials, the roots grow in it like weaving, the longitude and latitude intersect when remove soil, can't help but think of a lyric "there are always those unsolvable knots".
Because I want to sell, so I plant Hoya Carnosa are all with pure particles, remove soil without a minute, the roots good will take more time, remove particles can continue to use, particles used more miscellaneous, red jade, deer swamp, pumice, Hinoki stone, small particles 60%, medium particles 40% various mix, and then add some fairy soil, this soil used before processing may be a little trouble, also need to soak thoroughly, but can replace various fertilizers, no that grasp a handful of slow-release fertilizer is also ok, no that also do not matter, particles mixed ratio do not matter, in this light stone is cheap, for the economy will light stone more, because particles more loose just planted when the plant may be various shaking, this is no matter, Hoya Carnosa grow roots quickly wait for the root to be fixed, you shake also shake not move, particles good drainage, particles themselves have pores can keep water, make the roots in the state of moisture and no waterlogging, personally feel with full particles planting than garden soil planting black rot probability can reduce half, the shortcoming is that the growth is not as fast as garden soil planting, personal planting can consider mixed mud carbon into increase nutrition, growth rate should be faster than pure particles, but I think for Hoya Carnosa, more particles are still good, and the proportion of mud carbon is 7:3 will be better, with the increase of fine soil, the probability of black rot will also rise.
River sand is also possible. I have seen people who use pure sand soil, that is, the kind of sand soil used for home decoration, which can also be raised very well. But I have never raised it, so I don't express my opinion. Peat, vermiculite, coconut husk, etc. can also be used, but I use less, because it is inconvenient to remove soil, so I don't express my opinion.
Fourth lecture: Water
Too much water is not enough, and everyone says that watering takes ten years of hard work. This is really a labor-intensive job. Without some lessons, it is really difficult to grasp. Even if you have lessons, it is not necessarily possible to absorb them. This is not something that can be written out with a few words and a few articles. You have to cover it yourself. The humidity of the environment, soil, temperature and moisture evaporation rate are all different, and they cannot be discussed in one sentence. Even if the environment is the same, different pots should be applied differently. This is why some people can become Buddhas and some people can still be sand monks.
There is no theory in watering, only practice. If you really don't want to use your brain to think, then you can dry and water thoroughly. As for what is dry and thorough, it won't be said.
Here is a discussion about what I think is the water resistance of each part of Hoya Carnosa. Hoya Carnosa and conventional plants are divided into roots, stems, leaves and flowers. Flowers are not mentioned here. They have no ornamental value. The leaves are covered with powder, and the distance between powder and water molecule diameter is less than that of water molecule diameter, so water cannot wet the leaf surface on the leaves covered with powder, and it rolls on the leaf surface in the form of water droplets, just like the leaves of lotus are nanostructured, and water is not wet, the same is true for Hoya Carnosa. The leaves are more water-resistant when covered with powder, but it is best not to have water on the leaf surface under the scorching sun in summer, because sunlight passes through water droplets like a convex lens to focus light on a point of the leaves, which will sunburn; But if the leaf surface is not covered with powder, it is another story. If the powder is removed, the leaves of Hoya Carnosa will be wetted by water. If it is wetted for a long time, the leaves will rot and rot. Most of them are only single leaves, and in a few cases, it will affect the stem. Even if the whole plant is black rot and rot, I think it is only an individual case, and it cannot be regarded as a general condition.
The roots of Hoya Carnosa are still more water-resistant, because the roots are the livelihood of this.
The stem of Hoya Carnosa is not water-resistant. First, its surface is not covered with powder, and secondly, it is not engaged in the business of absorbing water. Its function is to transport nutrients and water, support the plant and attach leaves. After the leaves dry up and metabolize, they will leave leaf root traces on the stem. The center of these leaf root traces is the channel for the stem to transport nutrients to the leaves before, just like the navel of a person. This trace is connected, and external substances can penetrate into the stem from here. There are many cases of stem rot in black rot, I think it is related to this. Therefore, when planting plants, the part of the stem buried in the soil is generally less, and most black rot occurs near the root, so I also use larger particles more near the root, to prevent trouble.
Some friends also ask me why the leaves crack after being planted at home for a short time, and show me the photos. I don't think they are injured by birds or others. I searched on the Internet and found that they are bloated and cracked by too much water, but this friend also didn't water. Is it because of high humidity? I only have fifty铃 with water bloated and cracked, but Hoya Carnosa also has water bloated at times. The humidity in the greenhouse is also 90%, but there has never been a situation of leaf cracking. I searched on the Internet and found that there are also some. I don't know the specific reason, but I can find several common points from photos and descriptions:
1. Just planted not long ago, and all of them were planted with roots (not top cutting plants).
2. Most of them are dwarfed, and their basic state is very poor.
From this, it can be seen that I guess it may not be because of too much water or humidity, but the specific reason I am not clear. I guess it may be because the roots have not recovered and the plants have not adapted to the pot, but they still need to grow, which will cause such cracks. This guess comes from stem cracks. Hoya Carnosa with top cutting and stems, generally cut down after two days, I are thrown away casually, but there are many cases that I forget to plant for a few days, and at this time, the head of Hoya Carnosa grows obviously, and it also has obvious phototropism. There are scars in the bent part of the stem, which should be the result of the surface growth of the stem can not keep up with the growth of phototropism and bending, this is a completely self internal consumption of growth, the figure below is this kind of crack, the crack is formed when the light.
Fifth lecture: Basin
Practical is good. Here I first use the old-fashioned earthenware pot. I personally feel that the earthenware pot is very useful. It is economical, breathable and drainable, but it is a bit heavy. However, in general, it is very cost-effective. However, it is still a bit lacking for bulk planting. Bulk planting in greenhouses still uses black square or various plastic pots. When choosing plastic pots, it is still necessary to choose some thick and tough ones. Inferior plastic is not resistant to sun exposure, which can be brittle in one summer. If you choose a plastic pot, it is recommended to use more particles or pure particles. However, it also depends on your soil. I have seen someone using coconut husk and perlite, which is also very good. The coconut husk selected is the kind with thicker and longer fibers (like a ball of hemp thread). Less small planting materials should be used to reduce the breathability of the soil in the deep layer. But I hate perlite, which flies when the wind blows and floats when the water is poured. It is also various choking when mixed.
Let's go back to the plastic pot. If you use a combination of plastic pot and garden soil, you should pay attention to watering in summer. The breathability of the plastic pot is relatively poor. After one day of exposure to the sun, if you take the pot back and look inside (the soft plastic pot, cut directly with scissors), the soil