Leaf insertion propagation of succulents
Succulent plant knowledge series, sharing with you the small knowledge of succulent plants, leaf insertion propagation of succulents (experience sharing), next, our site editor will introduce to everyone.
Leaf insertion propagation of succulents is an experience that many flower friends have gone through in the propagation of succulent plants, and they have all had some successes, but some flower friends have also summarized a lot of experience in leaf insertion. This article is the experience summary of leaf insertion succulent root induction and cultivation after germination, which is very suitable for flower friends who like leaf insertion to read and learn.
Since contacting leaf insertion in 2013, it has been more than a year so far, from complete ignorance and exploration to gradually gaining confidence and mastering some personal experiences of leaf insertion; several classmates hope that I can provide practical experience, so I summarize and share some experiences with everyone here.
Stage 1: Wait for the leaves to take root and sprout, the following methods can all be used.
Natural method - Place the leaves flat on the dry soil (loose soil, do not compact, good ventilation).
Abandon method - Place it in the corner of the wall without soil, and ensure good ventilation (can be used when there are too many leaves at home and no time to take care of them, and it doesn't matter if some die or get injured).
Root induction method - Place it in the production room (on a vegetable washing basket with a sieve, add a little water at the bottom, the water level should not exceed the height of the sieve, do not wet the leaves, do not spray water, cover it with a lid), open the ventilation before sleeping and cover it in the morning. Do not cover it when it's rainy or humid (over 80%), and do not use the production room when the temperature exceeds 28 degrees; this method is intended to maintain humidity.
Placement - Place the upper side of the leaves upwards and the back side downwards.
Temperature - The best temperature for leaf insertion is 20-25 degrees, it can be done between 15-30 degrees, below 15 degrees it will take longer to sprout; a larger temperature difference between morning and evening can promote sprouting.
Humidity - About 80% is the best.
Ventilation - Pay attention to good ventilation and air circulation. In winter, please place it in a place with good air circulation indoors.
Plant soil - Dried soil after potting or placed on 1-3mm sized red jade soil; it can also be placed in a corner of the wall or in the production room without soil; soil is optional at this stage (roots not yet grown).
Lighting - Do not expose to direct sunlight, scattered light is sufficient.
Water control - No watering or spraying at this stage, what is needed is the humidity in the air; leaves easily rot when they come into contact with water.
Tags - Plastic products, write the variety with a waterproof marker pen, write it down as soon as you get it, otherwise you will not be able to tell who is whose later.
Stage 2: Cultivation after roots and buds appear.
Root buds appear - Move to the seedling tray, lean against the mouth of the pot, the growing point is close to the soil surface, the roots can be slightly buried in the soil, the buds are on the soil, the bottom of the seedling tray is placed with pot bottom stones (ventilated and non-powdering granular soil), the middle layer is placed with planting soil, wait for the seedlings to be a little bigger before using red jade soil to cover the surface, also supporting the seedlings.
No buds appear - Wait for a period of time, if no buds appear, you can first place it in the seedling tray to grow, first keep it alive and then wait for the buds to appear.
Buds without roots - Do not place it in the soil first, wait for the buds to appear, the mother leaf can support the nutrients and moisture for a long time, if the mother leaf begins to wither, place it on the wet soil after soaking the pot, the roots of the seedlings are slightly buried in the soil to stimulate root growth.
Seedling tray - There are 12 holes or more; there are also open seedling trays without holes, not limited to any container, but there must be a bottom hole, preferably with holes, so that the adjacent plants will not be disturbed when transplanting.
Placement - Slightly tilt (with the leaf back against the pot edge), the growing point is close to the planting soil, the roots are slightly buried in the soil, and the buds are on the soil.
Ventilation - Pay attention to good ventilation and air circulation. In winter, please place it in a place with good air circulation indoors.
Plant soil - 70% peat soil; 30% granular soil.
Lighting - Initially, weak sunlight outdoors (morning and evening sunlight); indoors can be placed in front of the window sill, exposed to direct sunlight through the glass (avoid direct sunlight at noon in summer); later, when the seedlings grow obviously, gradually increase the lighting, slowly start full-day direct sunlight (avoid direct sunlight at noon in summer); indoor cultivation needs to be given more lighting time, otherwise it is easy to grow徒.
Water control - One, pour the root water on the dry soil in the pot. Two, after soaking the pot in water, place it in the pot without watering, and slightly bury the roots in the soil; this method can maintain no watering for a period of time at the beginning, both methods can be applied, depending on personal convenience and preference, then keep the surface of the planting soil moist for 2 months without watering through (the roots are not fully developed), after 2 months, water when the soil is dry.
Stage 3: Transplanting seedlings.
When it grows to about 2-3 centimeters, it can be transplanted, depending on different varieties, the size is different, usually about 4-6 months, earlier or later is fine, transplanting can stimulate the plant to grow faster, fast-growing succulents need to be transplanted every 2-3 months.
Flower pot - Depending on the size of the plant, there are pots of 5 cm, 7 cm, 9 cm or larger, 2-3 cm larger than the seedlings for growth space, if there are multiple heads, a larger pot is needed to reserve development space.
Plant soil - 40% peat soil; 60% granular soil.
Water control - Water thoroughly once every 7-10 days.
Lighting - Give the best lighting your environment can provide, the better the lighting the faster it grows (photosynthesis is sufficient), and the color is bright, if conditions permit, place it outdoors in direct sunlight; insufficient lighting will cause徒 growth, you can tell whether the light at home is enough from the state of the succulents.
Ventilation - It is necessary, indoor placement needs to pay attention to air circulation.
Soil mix ratio for each stage - Small seedlings just sprouted from leaf insertion, 50%-70% peat soil; the rest is granular soil; medium seedlings transplanted (about half a year) 30%-50% peat soil; mature plants (one to two years) 10%-30% peat soil; or all granular; old stakes, and pots without bottom holes are served with all granular soil; all have pot bottom stones at the bottom, conducive to drainage and ventilation.
Granular soil ingredients → red jade soil;鹿沼土;日向土;硅藻土;河沙;珍珠岩 (mixed according to feeling, each time is not exactly the same), and some rice husk charcoal; peat particles; 奥 green fertilizer, the main size of granular soil is 1-3mm, 3-6mm as auxiliary, surface stones - 3-6mm red jade soil for small seedlings, convenient to observe the dry and wet of water; larger ones can use various 3-6mm granular soils that do not powder, mixed personal use Mixed surface stones include red jade soil,日向土, red volcanic rock, diatomaceous earth, and wheat meal stone; the ratio and color are mixed according to personal preference. Reference picture of surface stones, the following red jade soil mulch.
The following 4 points are indispensable for good succulent cultivation
Adequate lighting - Please give the succulents the maximum sunlight, if conditions permit, direct sunlight, if through the glass, let it shine longer.
Ventilated environment - More attention should be paid to air circulation for indoor maintenance, as succulents in a closed space for a long time are in poor condition.
Well-ventilated soil - This is the most technically challenging key, each stage of succulents requires different nutrients and water, all depending on the soil you provide to determine what the succulents grow into.
Appropriate water control - Initially, you can observe the moisture condition through the surface stones, or insert a toothpick into the soil to see the moisture in the soil through the toothpick; later, you need to learn to observe the leaves of the succulents to decide when to water. When lacking water, the bottom leaves begin to soften, and then wither, mastering these details can lay the foundation for future "塑型”.
The above is my experience of leaf insertion in the past year, hoping to be of some help to new friends interested in leaf insertion, and everyone is welcome to supplement and instruct.
The introduction of leaf insertion succulents (experience sharing) mentioned above is for your reference, hope you will like it!