How to cultivate the longevity flower
For many girls, knowledge about succulent plants like the longevity flower, such as how to cultivate it, is detailed as follows:
Every experienced flower enthusiast has their own set of methods for cultivating longevity flowers. After years of cultivation, I have accumulated some experience and would like to share it with everyone. If anyone has better care knowledge, feel free to share.
I: Soil and Environment
Longevity flowers do not have high requirements for soil, preferring loose and breathable soil. Decomposed leaf soil, pine needle soil, and garden soil mixed with coal slag are all suitable. They require ample sunlight and a moderate temperature of 15-25 degrees Celsius. Above 30 degrees, they enter a semi-dormant state, below 10 degrees growth stops, below 5 degrees leaves turn red, and below 0 degrees they can be frostbitten. Insufficient light can cause the plant to grow too tall, resulting in weak branches, thin leaves, reduced number of flowers, and dull flower color.
II: Stem Cutting
After flowering or surviving the summer, the old plants of longevity flowers should be repotted with fresh soil, or their growth will weaken. Especially for the double-petaled varieties, they easily become woody. I usually cuttings every other year, and the season for cutting can be any time, with spring and autumn being the best. Summer and winter are also possible, but roots grow slowly. Cuttings in summer have a lower survival rate. When cutting, take branches with more than four healthy leaves, and cut the wound to dry before inserting it.
You can cultivate roots in water before transplanting, or you can insert them directly into the potting soil. Provide appropriate shading. Since the cuttings do not have roots yet, maintain a certain humidity. You can mist to keep it moist. It usually takes about a week to grow roots. If the temperature is low, it will take longer. Cuttings in the soil are considered rooted and alive when the leaves become hard and glossy.
III: Growth Period
After the seedlings survive, you need to pinch the tips and top to promote branching. More branches mean more flowers and a beautiful plant shape. Longevity flowers are drought-resistant and do not require a lot of water. Watering should follow the principle of "wet and dry." In winter, when the temperature is low, control the amount of water to prevent root rot. Autumn is the peak growth season for longevity flowers. After September, ensure the supply of water and fertilizer so that the plants grow strong and can produce more and brighter flowers. In summer, do not let them be continuously rained on, and avoid direct sunlight after rain, as high humidity and heat can damage the roots, leading to rot and black rot disease. Also, provide appropriate shading in summer and avoid direct sunlight. If possible, move them to the north-facing balcony. If not, use a sunshade net or place them in the shade of trees. Adjust the care based on your own conditions.
IV: Fertilization
No fertilizer should be applied during the cutting process. Only when the branches have survived and new leaves have grown can fertilizer be applied, but it must be applied thinly and frequently. Use compound fertilizer during the growth period. Summer is the semi-dormant period for longevity flowers, and no fertilizer should be applied, as it can burn the roots. Starting in October, which is the flower bud differentiation period, you can spray a solution of potassium dihydrogen phosphate and combine it with root watering. A concentration of 1:1000 or more is suitable. Spray every 7-10 days until the flower buds appear.
V: Disease Treatment
The most common pests for longevity flowers are aphids and leaf miners. Aphids are easy to treat, but leaf miners are more difficult, as they like to bore into leaves and are hard to detect. By the time you notice, the leaf flesh is usually already eaten, leaving a transparent, dried leaf. Pay attention to leaf changes and spray pesticides as soon as you detect pests. Pesticides like dimethoate, pymetrozine, and 百虫灵 (Bai Chong Ling) are effective against these pests.
In winter, indoor cultivation of longevity flowers is prone to powdery mildew, mainly due to poor ventilation. Powdery mildew is usually treated with myclobutanil. Sulfur powder can also treat powdery mildew. Since sulfur powder is not water-soluble, wet the leaves first before evenly sprinkling the powder on the affected leaves. Powdery mildew should be treated and isolated promptly, as it can spread to other healthy plants. Longevity flowers can also have stem rot and leaf blight, which can be treated with a spray of carbendazim 800-1000 times diluted solution. If stem rot is detected, if not severe, it can be treated with medication; if severe, cut healthy branches for cuttings and discard the diseased plant.
The above[] introduces methods for cultivating longevity flowers (experiences) as a reference suggestion for everyone.