Caring for Echeveria Plants
You may not be familiar with the content about Echeveria plants, the daily maintenance of Echeveria plants is introduced as follows:
Outdoor Planting
In mild winter climates, Echeveria plants can be grown outdoors in the courtyard. Suitable climate zones range from coastal areas to frost-free subtropical climates. In areas with moderate temperatures in both summer and winter and moderate dryness, Echeveria plants are very easy to grow outdoors. In some regions, such as Perth in Western Australia and the desert areas of Arizona in the United States, there is plenty of sunshine and mild winters, which seem ideal for Echeveria growth, but the summers are too hot.
Most Echeveria plants will be sunburned by the first heat wave in spring, except for some of the most hardy varieties. Providing shade at noon and in the afternoon can improve the situation. In extremely cold conditions, Echeveria plants can be frostbitten or rot due to low temperatures and moisture. Like many bulbous plants overwintering, it is best to dig them up in late autumn and store them in a dry box or shelf indoors.
In areas where winters are cold, long, and wet, a common overwintering measure is to prepare a temporary plastic greenhouse for Echeveria plants.
(These colorful Echeveria plants grow under the eaves of sunny houses, with hard leaves and more pests and diseases than indoor plants.)
Echeveria plants can grow well in ordinary garden soil, and it is even better if the soil is breathable, loose, and fertile. Clay with poor drainage or too compact soil is not suitable. Good drainage is much more important than soil quality. During the winter dormancy period, Echeveria plants cannot tolerate waterlogged soil. If the soil does not drain well, it is best to build a ridge at least 2 meters high. The best way to plant Echeveria is not to dig a hole but to place the plant flat on the soil surface, spread the roots, and make them touch the ground as much as possible, then sprinkle soil on the exposed roots. If necessary, stones can be used to ensure that the large heads are completely upright. Echeveria is not a species with deep roots and is suitable for planting under trees, shrubs, balcony gardens, or even on rooftops. If the soil contains organic matter, Echeveria plants will be happy.
If the soil in the garden is relatively fertile, Echeveria plants do not need additional fertilization. However, if the soil is poor or planted near nutrient-absorbing eucalyptus trees, applying a thin fertilizer every few months during the growing season can supply the nutrients needed by Echeveria plants.
Regarding sunlight and shade is a complex topic, which depends on the temperature difference between winter and summer. In inland areas with hot summers and cold winters, it is necessary to create a relatively stable growing environment for Echeveria plants, and additional protection is needed during severe cold and heat. These protective measures should be easy to remove because most of the time, Echeveria plants still need direct sunlight to produce beautiful colors. If the climate is cold, additional sunlight should be provided for Echeveria plants. If the climate is hot, or at least sometimes very hot, providing additional shade is better. A temporary shading method during hot weather is to use shade netting, cut into one-meter squares and placed around your favorite plants.
(A few types of Echeveria can tolerate frost, but most cannot. This is a survivor after frost, and the damage needs several months to recover. Once the plant is exposed to frost or hail, quickly move it to a safe place and dry it to prevent subsequent moist weather or rain from exacerbating the injury.)
The watering frequency for Echeveria plants grown outdoors depends on the humidity during the period from spring to autumn. Usually, there is sufficient rainfall in spring, and no additional watering is required. In principle, after a thorough rainfall, no watering is needed for up to ten days. Echeveria plants can survive without water for several months but look less healthy and robust than well-watered plants. The best watering time is in the morning, avoiding watering in the strong sunlight and high temperatures of the late morning or noon, as water droplets left on the leaves can act as lenses and burn new leaves. Do not water on hot and humid days, especially not at night, as the low evaporation rate will cause water droplets to remain on the leaves overnight or longer, leading to bacterial growth. Some cautious growers use a hose to water the bottom of Echeveria plants to avoid splashing water on the leaves and rosettes. This method is very suitable for use in tropical and subtropical regions.
(Watering from above or applying liquid fertilizer can leave marks on the leaves, destroying the exquisite appearance of Echeveria plants.)
(Water droplets left on the leaves for too long can damage the appearance and health of Echeveria plants, especially for slow-growing delicate varieties. Most of these marks are left when the leaves are small and fragile.)
(Water droplets often gather like this in the center of Echeveria plants. Fortunately, this is not a big problem for potted Echeveria plants, which can be watered directly from the bottom to maintain their good condition.)
After two to three years, most Echeveria plants in the garden will look too crowded or too tall. At this time, it is necessary to divide the clumps, as most of them may have already developed their own roots, leaving enough space between the plants when planting. Extra rosettes can be planted elsewhere or in pots. Large hybrid varieties may develop long stems that lean to one side. Some people support the leaning stems, but this is not recommended. As the supporting roots decrease, the situation will worsen. Most growers cut the top of the plant (see page 31) and replant after it roots.
Pruning and cleaning the Echeveria garden involves removing unsightly flower stalks and old leaves. For small Echeveria plants, they usually grow very tightly, and the dead leaves are pressed to the bottom of the rosette, forming natural compost, which should not be removed. Ugly leaf litter can be cleaned up at any time, especially for large ruffled varieties.
(This is a garden with mostly Echeveria plants. After flowering, a large number of flower stalks remain, making it look untidy.)
(Taking a few minutes to cut them down will make the garden look much better. This simple but important task needs to be done every one or two years.)
The above is the complete content of the third part of the daily maintenance of Echeveria plants (outdoor planting), have green plant enthusiasts understood?