Knowledge on planting succulents: Explanation of potting steps
Answering netizens' questions about succulents, explaining the knowledge of planting succulents including potting steps, let's take a look together!
Spring and autumn are both seasons when succulents grow vigorously. I believe many flower enthusiasts are busy propagating, repotting, changing soil, transplanting seedlings, and buying new plants. Previously, I often heard flower enthusiasts say that their newly bought or newly potted succulents were in poor condition, soft and droopy, with leaves falling off, and they were worried.
Firstly, I'll talk about the general potting method for newly bought succulents (personal methods for reference only), and then discuss the plant status and performance after potting.
I. Potting method for succulents
1. Regardless of whether it's bought from a flower market, greenhouse, or online, discard the original soil from the pot. (Online purchases usually do not come with potting soil)
2. Wash the roots of the plant. Make sure to rinse off most of the soil from the roots. This may contain a large number of eggs and bacteria. Wash gently, as root damage is inevitable, but try to minimize it. You can shake the roots in a basin of water. It is not recommended to use a strong stream of water from the faucet, as this will break many roots. Repeat the shaking and soaking process several times until the white main roots are visible.
3. After washing the roots, if necessary, prune the roots. Cut off the blackened or hollowed-out diseased and dead roots. Also, trim the long, tangled lateral roots to promote the growth of new fibrous roots. This will make the root system look evenly distributed and neat. After root pruning, the new roots that regenerate will be strengthened, making the plant grow healthier. If you're not sure, you can skip this step, it's fine, just remove the dead and diseased roots.
4. The roots will definitely be damaged at this point, so the next step is to soak them in a properly mixed fungicide for about an hour. You can use carbendazim, chlorothalonil, or thiabendazole. Don't make the concentration too high, and you can soak multiple plants in a small basin.
5. After the fungicide treatment, let the roots dry naturally. Usually, you can pot the plant the same day (a few hours later).
6. Prepare the potting mix and消毒 treatment in advance. There are articles on the website about potting mix selection and disinfection methods that you can refer to.
7. Choose a pot and spray it with fungicide. Personally, I recommend using terra cotta pots for succulents in the Crassula family. For Haworthia, you can choose resin or plastic containers. If you're a "visual aesthetics above all" person, you can choose a ceramic pot, but it must have drainage holes. Don't consider materials like iron or woven baskets, as rust and mold can drive you crazy, and it may not be obvious at first, but you'll know after a while. It's like sending the succulents into the jaws of death. Don't be whimsical and then regret it!
8. Put the disinfected potting mix into the pot, following the principle of large particles at the bottom and small particles on top. The particle size of the potting mix decreases gradually from bottom to top, which is good for drainage.
9. Plant the plant and cover the roots completely with soil. Press the soil gently with your fingers, then spray a thin layer of fungicide on the soil surface to slightly moisten it. A little moisture is enough to facilitate the germination of new roots. The rule is "damp soil, dry planting," not "wet soil, dry planting"! There is a difference between the two.
10. After potting, place the plant in a bright area with scattered light, avoiding direct sunlight. Maintain ventilation and coolness, and do not water. This is the seedling establishment stage.
11. After a week, resume watering and full sunlight, and normal care. During the seedling establishment period, if the potting mix is too dry, you can spray a thin layer of water mist or fungicide on the soil surface every day to increase humidity, but be careful not to overdo it! After the seedling establishment period, you must water decisively, or the plant will continue to wilt, become soft, and drop leaves, possibly increasing the mortality rate.
Actually, these methods are the most conservative. Many succulent species are tougher than you can imagine, and after a long period of care, you'll find that these methods are too cumbersome, only more delicate species need such a complicated process. Haha, but if you're new to succulents and not fully familiar with their habits, it's still better to follow the conservative approach. If you're an experienced grower, just continue as usual. One last word of caution, this potting method is only for the growing season, not for the dormant period. If you want to force it, be prepared to take responsibility for the consequences...
II. Plant status after potting
Usually, after potting, you'll find that the succulent is either limp or constantly shedding leaves. Many flower enthusiasts will be very worried and look for solutions everywhere. At this point, you need to calm down and analyze. (In fact, most of the time it's the situation 2, worrying for no reason.)
Situation 1: Not following the potting method I described above, which may have led to bacterial infection of the roots or plant after potting. Or the plant may have had diseases and injuries when purchased, or the potting soil may not have been thoroughly disinfected. Exclude damage and pests, and it's bacterial infection. High humidity in the substrate is the most common cause of bacterial infection, so don't water too much during the seedling establishment period. The roots simply don't have the ability to absorb nutrients and water at this point, and too much moisture in the substrate will only cause bacteria to multiply, increasing the chances of root rot.
Situation 2: There's nothing to worry about, as this is a normal phenomenon.
When a plant is just potted, the root system is inevitably damaged, so the seedling establishment period is actually about root establishment. When the roots are not fully recovered and cannot absorb nutrients and water normally, the plant will rely on the nutrients stored in the outer old leaves to maintain normal physiological functions and the growth of new tissues. Therefore, the plant will appear limp, and the outer old leaves will gradually shrink and fall off.
At this point, you don't need to worry about the plant having any health issues. Once the roots recover, the old leaves will stop shrinking and falling off, and the growth points of the plant will start to show activity and start growing. However, it's normal for healthy plants to shed old leaves, and plants with unestablished roots will show rapid shedding of old leaves. The old leaves are sacrificing themselves for the sake of the overall health of the plant.
You can determine if the roots have recovered and started growing by gently pulling the stem of the plant and feeling if there is a slight "grabbing force." However, don't pull too hard and uproot the plant.
The old leaves that have exhausted their nutrients are basically like a piece of parchment. Once the old leaves become soft and dry, you don't need to remove them prematurely. They will fall off naturally once all the nutrients are consumed. If you remove them prematurely, it will accelerate the shedding of the next leaf. They shed in a specific order.
After the seedling establishment period, the plant should resume normal watering frequency. Don't be afraid to water the plant, otherwise, even if the roots recover, they won't be able to absorb enough nutrients and water for the plant, and the plant will remain wilted, limp, and shedding leaves, never achieving the best ornamental effect.
The above introduction on the knowledge of planting succulents and potting steps is hoped to be helpful to you. Finally, don't forget to check out more gardening experience and常识!