Easy Tutorial on Propagating Succulents through Home Cutting
Today, I'll explain in detail the knowledge about propagating succulents, specifically the easy tutorial on propagating succulents through home cutting. Here's a detailed introduction.
Whenever the weather warms up, plant enthusiasts start to get busy, and the activities of propagating succulents also increase. For ordinary succulent lovers, it may not be necessary to understand so many profound biological principles. So today, I'll briefly introduce my own propagation process, which is also the most simplified method of home cutting propagation.
It is recommended that cutting propagation be completed before May, as the failure rate of cutting propagation increases with the temperature. Even if the roots take successfully, the fragile seedlings may not necessarily have enough nutrients to survive the summer. Therefore, the earlier the propagation is completed, the better. Make sure to reserve some time for the growth and development of the seedlings. (I usually propagate in winter, provided you have the temperature conditions at home)
There are many types of substrates for cutting, and there are no strict rules. River sand, vermiculite, crushed coal slag, volcanic stones, various powder-like planting mixtures, seedling blocks, etc., can all be used for succulent cutting. The overall requirements are fine particle size, water retention, good breathability, minimal temperature changes, and free from bacteria and pathogens, which are not conducive to bacterial reproduction.
I most commonly use vermiculite, and I usually use pure vermiculite. Vermiculite meets all the conditions for cutting and is relatively worry-free. It is a natural, non-toxic, and sterile mineral belonging to silicates. In agriculture, vermiculite can be used as a soil conditioner to improve soil structure, store water, maintain moisture, increase soil breathability and water retention, and transform acidic soil into neutral soil. Additionally, vermiculite can also act as a buffer to prevent rapid changes in pH, allowing fertilizers to release slowly in the growing medium. Enough about its other uses, just understand this much. Here, we use it as a cutting substrate.
I usually use the "three-piece seedling tray set" for cutting, removing the middle "cell tray" and only using the "tray bottom" and "tray cover". This way, the space utilization is higher, and the cutting position is more flexible.
Fill the tray with pure vermiculite, then spray a thin layer of fungicides such as carbendazim or chlorothalonil on the surface of the vermiculite.
Then, you can place the cut scions (i.e., stems or leaves) in it. I won't go into the disinfection of the scions after cutting. It's best to let the newly cut stems and leaves sit in a shaded place for a week before cutting. The success rate of cutting will be higher when the wound is fully healed and the plant is slightly collapsed. The longer the resting time, the better.
Stem cutting: A thickness of about 3 cm of vermiculite is sufficient.
Leaf cutting: A thickness of about 1.5 cm of vermiculite is sufficient.
Since fungicides have been sprayed, there is no need to water. Next, you can cover the tray with the lid.
In such a small airtight space, the humidity requirements for rooting are already sufficient. Do not wet the entire tray of vermiculite through, as excessive humidity will only increase the chance of cutting decay. I've mentioned before that the key to rooting is a suitable "combination of temperature and humidity". Humidity is primarily about air humidity, not medium humidity. How to increase air humidity? It's simple! Create an airtight space, commonly known as "stuffy". Therefore, watering is not required during the cutting process. If you see that there are no longer any water droplets or mist covering the lid, you can spray a small amount of water to increase humidity.
Basically, you can uncover the lid for ventilation once or twice a day for three to five minutes. If you notice any fungal strands or signs of mold decay in the box, spray another round of fungicides or rinse the plants clean and put them back in.
In such seasons with suitable temperatures, the plants can usually take root within one to two weeks. (As shown in the diagram below)
Actually, the so-called "rooting" we often talk about is the same principle as cutting. For example, when you buy succulents online, they are usually freshly cut from the top by the seller and haven't been cut for long, so they haven't rooted much. You will need to "root" them after purchasing.
After rooting, you can transplant them into pots. (As shown in the diagram below) Since vermiculite does not contain nutrient-rich organic matter, it is crucial to supplement the plant nutrients as the root system develops rapidly. Therefore, immediately after rooting occurs, you need to transplant it into nutrient-rich planting material for normal maintenance. At this point, you don't need to worry that the rooting is not sufficient and dare not transplant it rashly. In fact, once rooting occurs, it indicates that the auxins have successfully transported to the base of the scion. Transplanting it into nutrient-rich media will only accelerate root growth.
Moreover, newly cut successful plants are not suitable for ceramic pot maintenance and are more suitable for small-mouthed plastic or resin pots or false planting pots. This is because seedlings have high demands for nutrients and water, and the newly emerging roots need to continue to develop well in a soil environment with slightly higher humidity, otherwise, the new roots can easily wither.
Leaf cutting is even simpler. Just place them on the surface of the vermiculite and cover them with the lid. There is no need to insert the leaves into the medium. In fact, as long as the air humidity is sufficient, even without cutting media, the scions can root when exposed to the air.
Actually, when it comes to leaf cutting, many Crassula leaves are super tough. Sometimes when I'm busy, I don't have much time to fiddle with them, and I just throw many leaves in the dark corners of the balcony. After a while, I find that all the leaves have rooted and sprouted, some of which have already grown big. (As shown in the diagram below) In fact, even if you don't pamper them, they will be fine. But if you're not sure, it's better to follow the proper steps. Some hybrid varieties are still a bit delicate.
The above shares the complete content of the easy tutorial on propagating succulents through home cutting, for your comprehensive understanding and reference!