Rose
The editor answers questions about roses for netizens, including knowledge about roses (powdery mildew, spider mites, black spot disease) prevention and treatment, and fertilization techniques. Next, the editor will introduce to everyone.
For novice flower friends, powdery mildew, spider mites, and black spot disease of roses are the most troublesome. In fact, if you can switch to others after using a good medicine for a period of time, it will have a better effect. After being guided by experienced people, here is my experience:
1. Fertilizing roses:
Fertilizing roses should depend on the strength of the roots, applying heavy fertilizers for strong roots and light fertilizers for weak roots. This is why some people are happy and others are sad when using heavy fertilizers, as the condition of the roots is different. For transplanted plants with severe root damage, it's best not to apply fertilizers, but deep base fertilizers can be used if they are deep and do not touch the roots. Weak-rooted transplants should use good soil with a high proportion of peat and less garden soil.
Planting flowers is about taking care of the roots! If the roots are good, everything is fine; even bare stems will quickly grow leaves if the soil is fertilized appropriately. If the roots are poor, the more leaves there are, the worse it will be, so leaves should be removed after transplanting. If the roots are poor, injured, broken, or diseased, applying fertilizers to the soil is like poisoning. At this point, to strengthen the seedlings, fertilizing should start from the leaves. For transplanted seedlings,浇 once with a settling water, which can contain some root-promoting agents, and then do not water until the soil is dry and slightly moist before watering again. This method protects the roots and prevents rot.
Weak seedlings and recently transplanted seedlings should not be watered with fertilizers; it's best to spray fertilizers on the leaves. The weaker the seedlings, the lighter the fertilizer solution should be. Spray once in the morning and evening, with a 3-day interval, and be careful of fertilizer burns (leaf edges becoming crispy). Use fertilizers that are good for leaves, such as nitrogen fertilizers and ferrous sulfate. Do not use fertilizers that promote flowering, such as Huaduo and potassium dihydrogen phosphate.
(Some say nitrogen fertilizers inhibit root growth, while others say phosphorus fertilizers are beneficial to roots. This still needs to be proven. Calling for experts!)
The technique of spraying fertilizers is not to spray so much that the leaves drip. Otherwise, the accumulated fertilizer solution can easily cause edge burning. It's best to spray fine water points evenly and stop when it looks good. For seedlings with weak leaves, the fertilizer concentration should be lower than usual until the leaves become strong, and then spray at the regular concentration. When the roses look healthy and vigorous, you can apply root fertilizers, starting with a light concentration and then increasing. When it's about time for the season, you can use Huaduo or potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote flowering. Absolutely avoid spraying fertilizers in the hot sun or within 2 hours of being exposed to strong sunlight after spraying. Spray fertilizers in the evening, with a fine mist, a little less, and make sure the leaves can dry before it gets dark, otherwise it's easy to cause powdery mildew or black spot.
2. Rose diseases and pests:
For weak seedlings and recently transplanted seedlings, spray preventive medications for black spot and powdery mildew at the same time as fertilizing, at least every 10 days, at standard concentration. If it's cloudy and rainy for more than 2 full days without sunshine, add an extra spray. Do not spray water on roses! Many diseases are caused by spraying water! Potted roses are not cut flowers without roots! If the leaves wilt due to hot and dry weather, it's definitely because you didn't water thoroughly, or watered too quickly, causing the water to flow out from the bottom of the pot before it's absorbed, or the pot is too small with insufficient water storage!
New medicines are better for various diseases and pests, as those old-century medicines have long lost effectiveness due to resistance, such as polyoxin, carbendazim, and metalaxyl, etc.
Through experiments, I can断定 that tobacco water, soap water, laundry powder water, detergent water, pepper water, garlic water, etc., are all ineffective and can delay treatment.
Strongly recommended "Fomecron"霜氟吗合剂, which can prevent both black spot and powdery mildew, spraying every other day, 3-5 times to cure powdery mildew, including those who love powdery mildew like Xiaoyi, it's amazing.
If you remove the diseased leaves in time and spray Fomecron, black spot disease can also be completely controlled. Whether it's powdery mildew or black spot, removing the diseased leaves in time is the key! You can't be lenient! Leniency will infect all the leaves.
For red spider mites, the "Dicol" emulsion by Guoguang is very effective. There's no need for prevention, but red spider mites progress extremely rapidly, so as soon as you find them, spray the medicine immediately, without delay! Spray the back of the leaves, and the next day, the bugs will be black. Spray again after a few days to cure it.
If the disease is severe, spray more frequently and it can also be cured (be careful not to cause too much damage with the medicine). For various insects, such as aphids and caterpillars, "Baichongling" is very cheap, 1 yuan per pack, and I think it's extremely effective. It seems to even cure thrips, although I haven't observed them too much. When spraying, make sure to wet the topsoil to allow it to penetrate into the soil layer.
Black branches are a sign of overall weakness in roses, not just infection. Black branches on top mean the roots below are rotting, indicating a decline in vitality. Therefore, pruning usually has little effect. If pruning, the pruning shears should be heated for one minute with a lighter and used while hot. After pruning roses, apply "Dakning" foot cream to the wounds. This method is also applicable to cutting.
If roses have black branches without leaves, the first step should be to strengthen the roots, such as by watering root-promoting drugs and preventing root rot, paying attention to loosening the soil, and ensuring drainage and ventilation. (This is my own idea, and this needs to be corrected by everyone! Looking forward to sharing experiences from experts! Are there more methods to deal with black branches?)
The above shares detailed content about rose (powdery mildew, spider mites, black spot disease) prevention and treatment and fertilization techniques, hoping to bring you help!