Rose Seedling - The Most Comprehensive Guide in History
The editor answers netizens' questions about rose seedlings, providing the most comprehensive guide to rose seedlings ever. Let's take a look at it.
Rose seedlings are a common process after purchasing new roses. For experienced gardeners, rose seedlings are easy, but for beginners, it's not that easy. Whether it's the method or the environment, it's hard to grasp. Below are the experiences of rose lovers in seedling.
Written in front: a breath to finish, especially comprehensive, especially long!! Dare you finish it? Will you subvert many of your original ideas after you finish reading it?
First, about the seedlings received
Each seedling has different conditions, so it cannot be potted in the same way. Otherwise, some will die and others will not be healthy. The seedlings received are summarized into the following types:
Type 1: With many and thick stems, lush leaves, and less withered conditions. This kind of seedling does not need to be slow, but it should be divided into two according to the size of the roots in the soil ball.
The first situation: the soil ball is large, with many and dense roots, directly into the basin, big water, big sun, and ventilation. The seedlings grow naturally, and there is no more to say. (In this situation, no matter how you cut leaves and branches, it will not die, and those who buy such seedlings and say that cutting off some leaves will make the seedlings take root more, and call it reducing nutrient consumption, haha, ignorant and ignorant! There is no need to post to guide others, it will kill other seedlings.)
The second situation: the soil ball is small, with few roots and fewer fibrous roots, 1. Absolutely cannot be watered with a lot of water (the roots will rot), keep the soil moist within a week. 2. Expose it to the sun as much as possible. 3. Do not ventilate. 4. Absolutely cannot spray water on the leaves and stems. (The reason will be explained in the following text)
Type 2: With many but thin stems, very lush leaves, and withered conditions. The more leaves this seedling has, the thinner the stem, the more prone to black stems. It doesn't matter how big the soil ball is, but it must be maintained according to the small soil ball method of type 1.
Special note: At this time, even if the leaves wither and die, do not cut them off, absolutely do not cut them off, because they are already dehydrated, and after cutting off, they will definitely blacken from the cut, which may cause the whole branch to blacken. It is best to let it fall off naturally. If the seedlings received have black stems, or if black stems occur after potting, do not cut them off. Even if it blackens all the way down, do not care about it. (The reason will be explained in the following text)
Type 3: Only stems (no matter thick or thin), no leaves, or very few. This kind of seedling is the best seedling. It is better than those with leaves. After potting, all the nutrients of the plant are used for root growth (other seedlings' nutrients are used to maintain consumption or heal wounds), and before sprouting, the roots grow very well, so once the seedlings are successful, they grow very well, with great momentum.
For this type of seedling, 1. Water thoroughly after potting, and after watering thoroughly, make sure that the top of the soil layer is 1 cm deep in water, maintain it, soak for half an hour, generally after half an hour, the water level will drop, if it does not drop, it must be poured out. Preventing "waterlogging". This makes the soil completely dissolve and 100% water-containing. (Absolutely will not rot roots, the reason will be explained in the following text) 2. Place it in a place where there is strong ventilation and exposure to the sun. 3. Water and maintain according to the principle of seeing dry and seeing through. 3. After the bud point appears, maintain according to the small soil ball method of type 1. (The reason for the explanation: exposure to the sun and strong wind, although they are different ways, they are for the same purpose, that is, to accelerate the metabolism and circulation of the pot soil and plants, just like drying quilts. Strong wind and exposure to the sun accelerate the evaporation and circulation of the moisture in the pot soil, creating a good environment for root growth that is not stuffy, not covered, and the circulation is not stagnant. Exposure to the sun and strong wind can also promote the plant's metabolism and the ability of the roots to absorb water and nutrients.)
Type 4: No matter what kind of stem or leaf, if the soil ball is loose and the roots are dry, even if the leaves are still tough, don't pot it, it will definitely rot the roots! (Just like the old gardeners said, waterlogging will not rot the roots, but less water will definitely rot the roots) Even if it is potted, it is very difficult for the roots to survive, and all the nutrients in the stems are exhausted. In this case, only cuttings can be done. (Respect life, it is necessary to ask the seller for compensation, but don't let the seedlings die!) Method: Cut off all the small leaves and most of the lateral branches, and then find the nearest old bud point to the roots from the bottom up, cut off the roots obliquely from the bottom of the bud point, and then cuttings. (Cuttings are not within the scope of this article, so they will not be described)
Type 5: It is also very common, with yellow stems when received, or the stems turn yellow within one or two days after potting (only when the stems are completely yellow is it type 5, don't put good seedlings in this category and kill them.) It is caused by severe dehydration of the plant, just like severe exhaustion of the human body, it is difficult to save, and it can basically be sentenced to death. But we cannot see death and not save: 1. Wash the soil ball of the seedlings that turn yellow when received, and dig out and wash the seedlings that turn yellow after potting, and soak the roots and the main stem in water. 2. Soak in water, strong ventilation, expose to the sun as much as possible, and change the water every hour. 3. If it gradually turns green, reduce exposure to the sun and ventilation, and after a period of hydroponics, pot it again for slow seedlings. 4. If the upper part is dead but there are still signs of life in the roots, cut off the roots from the bottom of the main stem, and pot it to root and sprout. 5. If it is dead and rotten, use it as other base fertilizer. (Reason: during transportation, lack of water and light, leading to anaerobic respiration of the mitochondria of all cells of the seedlings, that is to say, the cells of the whole seedlings are full of alcohol, drunk, so yellow. Believe it or not, you can go and review the high school biology textbook!)
Type 6: The whole plant is wilted, the leaves are wilted, and the lateral stems are also wilted. This type belongs to very good seedlings, but they are dehydrated during transportation, but they have not turned yellow yet. 1. Pot it and water the pot soil thoroughly. 2. Place it in a cool and slightly ventilated place. 3. (If it survives) After the new buds are a bit bigger, gradually expose it to the sun, first in the morning and afternoon, and then slowly expose it to the sun all day for normal maintenance. (The plant is most afraid of dehydration, this is also a serious illness, the stems are also wilted, only this kind cannot be exposed to the sun! Many flower friends on the Internet say that after receiving, slow seedlings should be placed in a cool place, the seedlings can be normal in three days, without sunlight, they will drag the seedlings to be sick! People say that, to the extreme!)
Type 7: It is dead when received. This must be mentioned! How to judge whether the rose is completely hopeless and dead. I have raised a toothpick seedling, thinking it was dead (the whole branch turned into firewood) and didn't pay attention to it, but after two months, new buds grew from the soil. Therefore, if the branch is dead, the roots may not be dead; if the roots are dead, the branches may not be dead. Patience and enough observation are needed to experience the fun of raising flowers. Only when the whole plant turns into firewood or rots completely is it dead! The vitality, disease resistance, and self-regulation ability of plants are far beyond people's imagination! The fun and sense of achievement of raising a dying flower to life is much stronger than buying ready-made, flowering seedlings!
Type 8: Not encountered for the time being, and sellers generally do not send diseased ones. Wait for netizens to provide materials.
Second, about black stems
Don't listen to the nonsense on the Internet about cutting to the green part, even if you cut, you should cut directly 5 mm above the bud mouth (refer to the pruning, sitting stem, etc. of jasmine cultivation for explanation). Generally, black stems cannot be cut, otherwise, the seedlings will rot roots, unable to stop the injury, and can only watch it blacken down. Even if the stem is black, do not move it, who moves who is stupid. The roots of the rose are not alive yet, so how can there be nutrients to allow the stem to recover on its own. Thick stems blacken slowly, and when the roots of the rose grow slightly better, they will immediately provide nutrients to the stem to prevent it from blackening further. However, if it is such a thin stem, it will blacken very fast, and before the roots come to the rescue, it will blacken to the bottom. The reasons for black stems are nothing more than two, and they complement each other. One is lack of water, and the other is bacteria. Once the stem lacks water (free water and cell fluid), the cells will naturally die and blacken under the action of transpiration. The cells at the junction of black and green will lose or weaken their resistance to the bacteria produced, and the bacteria will kill and eat the water-deficient stem cells, which in turn promotes the death of black stems under transpiration. Therefore, black stems must not be cut. And do not spray water on the stems!
Third, about the relationship between exposure to the sun and root rot! (Key point)
Generally, when slow seedlings, whether the leaves can grow or not has little effect on the future. I want to ask the netizens who say not to expose to the sun, why don't you expose it to the sun?? Afraid of excessive consumption of the plant's water?? Haha, typical "knowing the why, but not the why", and still shouting loudly all over the world! How ignorant! Let me tell you, the energy produced by the photosynthesis of the leaves during slow seedlings is far greater than the loss caused by the consumption of water by the seedlings! The energy produced by the leaves is all provided for the growth of root cells. Because the roots have just been potted, they do not have the ability to receive a large amount of free oxygen, if they cannot provide it, the root cells will have to carry out anaerobic respiration to maintain life, and anaerobic respiration directly produces alcohol, which will definitely rot the roots after a long time! (It has nothing to do with whether the pot soil is breathable or permeable to water. Remember! The roots will never breathe oxygen, they are not leaves, and they will never suffocate even if they are waterlogged or not breathable, they only need free oxygen! Most of the free oxygen absorbed by the roots comes from water!!! Do you know the gills of fish??? No need to explain, think about it yourself!!! Just different absorption methods!) Moreover, the consumption of water by the leaves leads to a decrease in water pressure in the plant body (except for the type of yellow stems), and the free water pressure between the root cells will also decrease. When it is lower than the external water pressure, according to the principle of diffusion in physics, external water and nutrients (various ions) can directly enter the intercellular space of the roots, so that the root cells obtain water and nutrients effortlessly!!! This also promotes the benign circulation of water and air in the pot soil! Reduces the breeding of pathogenic bacteria! This is why exposure to the sun is necessary. Not exposed to the sun, slow seedlings, and easy to rot roots!!! Know the reason for root rot now!!! (except for the situation of diseased rotting roots)
Fourth, about spraying water on branches and leaves
It has been mentioned about black stems, and spraying water leads to the breeding of bacteria. Do leaves need to be sprayed with water?
The answer is: under any circumstances, there is absolutely no need to spray water on the leaf surface!!!!!!!! No matter whether it is dry or humid, whether it is day or night, whether it is sunny or cloudy, whether it is winter or summer, remember! There is no need to spray water on the leaf surface!!!!!!!! And it is harmful without any benefits!!!! Think about why lotus leaves are so eager to grow out of the water surface!!!!!
Let's not talk about slow seedlings first, those normal roses with diseases such as powdery mildew, black spot disease, red spider (do not look at it as an insect), etc., 99% of the reasons are because there is water on the branches and leaves!!!!! Why do I say that?
Let's talk about it first, do leaves (the leaves of all plants) need water? Definitely need! What kind of water do they need? Have flower friends thought about it? The answer is gas state water! Remember! Leaves need gas state water, not liquid water!!! Understand??? In other words, it is water vapor! Leaves need water vapor, need to increase the humidity of the environment. It is humidity!!!
Why do you spray water on the leaves? Why don't you spray water on yourself! It's really unfair for the leaves!!! Spraying water directly leads to a decrease in photosynthesis, transpiration, and respiration of the leaves, and also breeds various bacteria. The various abilities of the leaves decrease, and the leaves have an environment for the breeding of bacteria, it's no wonder that they get sick!!! Think carefully, after spraying water, the edges and tips of some leaves will die. Have you encountered such a situation? Not dried by the sun, but waterlogged!!! Ignorant flower friends still recommend others to buy medicine to spray, haha, haha, speechless!
If you like flowers and are willing to invest, get a humidifier. If you are not willing to invest, reduce ventilation and place more wet towels. Don't spray water on it! If the leaves are yellow due to lack of water, add more water and more exposure to the sun (even for shade-loving plants). The sun is the best medicine for sterilization and treatment!!!!! One more sentence, flower friends, don't you forget? The ultraviolet rays in sunlight are the best medicine for sterilization and treatment! Still buy medicine, haha, is it to show off your wealth or your incompetence?
Spraying water is only necessary in one situation: if the leaves are dirty, wash the leaves!!
Fifth, about potting (only for roses) According to different types, it is roughly divided into two types: fully watered and moist. Fully watered: there is nothing to say, just pour the soil and water thoroughly according to what netizens say; moist: when putting soil in the pot, spread a layer, spray a layer with a spray bottle. Just moist is fine, that is, wet the particles, do not let there be water between the particles. Just put it in like this, one layer and one spray. Within about two weeks, do not water too much, just moisten the roots when it is dry. Too much water will definitely cause diseases, even rotting roots and yellow