What is the reason why orchids do not bloom after their flower buds grow
Orchids that grow flower buds but do not bloom on time is a common problem encountered by many orchid growers. This phenomenon not only affects their ornamental value but also reflects the oversights in the care process. This article will systematically analyze the four main reasons for bud stiffness from environmental control to daily management, and provide a scientific flowering promotion plan.
The Four Main Causes of Orchid Bud Stiffness
Temperature Environment Imbalance
Most orchid varieties complete flower bud differentiation in the range of 15-20°C, with spring orchids and others requiring 40 days of low temperatures (3-5°C) for vernalization. The day-night temperature difference should be maintained at 5-8°C. Northern heating environments can easily lead to insufficient accumulated temperature, while continuous high temperatures in the south can cause bud drop.
Pest and Disease Invasion
Enclosed environments are prone to the proliferation of thrips and scale insects, whose secretions cause sooty mold, leading to brown lesions at the base of the flower buds. It is recommended to clean the leaf sheaths with a bamboo skewer monthly and immediately spray with matrine upon detecting pests. Diseased plants should be treated with carbendazim solution.
Improper Water Management
Water should be controlled to 30% moisture content in the growing medium during the bud stage, with the immersion method being safer for watering. Air humidity should be maintained at 60%-70%, avoiding water droplets on the bud wrapper to prevent rot. Varieties like Cymbidium and Mo orchids can be supplemented with a 2000x solution of potassium dihydrogen phosphate sprayed on the leaves.
Malpositioned Nutrient Supply
After the buds appear, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped and replaced with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (N-P-K=3-15-10) every half month. Special varieties like cold orchids need to supplement boron, which can be applied as a 0.1% borax solution sprayed on the leaves. Organic fertilizers must be fully decomposed to avoid root burn.
Four-Step Orchid Flowering Care Method
Light and Temperature Synergistic Regulation
Provide 2000-3000 lux scattered light during the vernalization period, increasing to 5000 lux after the flower spike appears. Use smart grow lights for 6 hours daily,配合开窗通风制造温差. Tropical orchids like Phalaenopsis need to maintain a constant temperature of 18-25°C.
Scientific Substrate Mixture
Use a layered substrate: bottom layer with ceramsite (30%), middle layer with a mix of stone chips and pine bark (1:1, accounting for 50%), and top layer with sphagnum moss (20%). Retain 1/3 of the old substrate when repotting every year to maintain a balanced microbial community.
Physiological Cycle Management
Establish a care log, recording: ① seedling growth stage (high-nitrogen fertilizer from March to May) ② flower bud differentiation stage (water control from June to August) ③ vernalization stage (low temperature from September to November) ④ flowering stage (light supplementation from December to February).
By precisely controlling light, temperature, water, and fertilizer, and combining pest and disease prevention, even beginners can achieve annual reblooming. The key is to understand the biological characteristics of different orchid species and avoid blindly copying care plans. It is recommended to start with the adaptable Cymbidium orchid and gradually master the care essentials of each variety.