Caring for Cymbidium, Foreign Orchids, and Phalaenopsis Orchids
This article provides a detailed introduction to the care of Cymbidium orchids, covering the experiences and tips for caring for Cymbidium, Foreign, and Phalaenopsis orchids. The specifics are as follows:
Beginners may encounter many difficulties in caring for orchids, whether Cymbidium, Foreign, or Phalaenopsis orchids. Despite their best efforts, it's easy to go astray. This article shares the experiences of an orchid enthusiast, especially suitable for beginners, from having none to accumulating a large collection.
1. Environment: Enthusiasts in orchid-growing regions can skip this part. With proper selection and natural growth, reasonable watering, orchids should thrive. It's important to note that most tropical Foreign orchids are susceptible to frost and are only suitable for natural cultivation in Guangdong and Guangxi provinces.
The environment I discuss here is aimed at enthusiasts like me, who are in the northwestern frontier region. The natural climate north of Qinling Mountain does not produce orchids, so it's necessary to create a suitable environment for the growth of orchids based on their species. In the northwest, where indoor heating in winter keeps room temperatures around 20 degrees, this is beneficial for the growth of Foreign orchids. However, due to high indoor temperatures, Cymbidium and Eulophia orchids lack the low-temperature stimulation required for vernalization and often fail to bloom. It is generally recommended to focus on Foreign orchids, such as Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, and Dendrobium, which are easy to care for. For Cymbidium orchids, you can choose to grow Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium sinense. A south-facing balcony at home is usually sufficient, with the area adjusted according to the situation. It's best to grow more plants to create a local microclimate that is more suitable for orchid growth.
2. Pot selection: I have used various types of pots, including ceramic, purple sand, tile, plastic, and porcelain.
For Cymbidium orchids, plastic pots are the best. Yes, you read that correctly—black, slender plastic orchid pots. When your orchid collection exceeds 100 pots, with about 50 orchids, you will realize how labor-intensive watering and repotting can be. Lightweight, sturdy, and inexpensive plastic pots have obvious advantages. Well-designed plastic orchid pots have good ventilation and the chimney effect of root transpiration, ensuring consistent moisture levels inside the pot, which is more conducive to orchid growth. Purple sand pots are the most expensive and least practical, but they are attractive and can be used for display. Tile pots are actually suitable for orchids but are too heavy, unattractive, and prone to crumbling, requiring replacement every three years.
I usually use special ceramic pots for Foreign orchids, preferably small ones. Whether the pot walls have holes or not is optional. Specialized plastic pots for Foreign orchids can also be used. Now that logistics are well-developed and the cost of shipping ceramic pots has decreased, it is recommended to go directly to the best option without taking detours. In my indoor balcony growing environment, ceramic pots are breathable and drain well, with quick dry-wet alternation, making them very suitable for the root development of Foreign orchids.
3. Soil selection: When I first started growing orchids, I mainly focused on Cymbidium orchids, trying various soils and formulas, similar to preparing traditional Chinese medicine. The actual results were less than satisfactory. Since the evaporation rate is slow in my indoor growing environment, fine-textured soil is not suitable for orchid growth, and high summer temperatures with poor ventilation can lead to high incidence of root rot. Later, I switched to branded orchid-specific soil, which gradually improved the situation. To avoid advertising, please consult a well-known online platform for recommendations. I do not endorse any brands. Branded orchid soil has a suitable fertilizer ratio, avoiding improper fertilization that can damage the orchid roots. I personally believe that when the orchids you grow are expensive, it's best to choose branded orchid soil that guarantees quality, saving time and effort, and facilitating quick success for beginners. Once you have experience, you can adjust and make your own orchid soil based on the seedlings, pot size, and climate conditions. For those just playing around with orchids, it's fine to use whatever is available, but watering needs to be careful.
I have always used only two formulas for Foreign orchids: either all sphagnum moss or all bark. Based on personal experience, the method of using sphagnum moss and ceramic pots is actually more suitable for growing Foreign orchids in the northwest region. Bark dries out too quickly, and during the high-temperature summer period, I was close to崩溃 from watering morning and evening. The main advantage of bark is that it's less prone to root rot, while sphagnum moss requires some experience with watering. Use the same soil that came with the orchid when you buy it and continue growing it until new buds and roots have grown well, then change the pot and soil. The sphagnum moss that comes with market Phalaenopsis orchids is fine and can be changed after two years. If you have the conditions, you can use Chilean sphagnum moss, as quality comes with a price.
4. Watering: The survival of orchids depends on watering, and good growth depends on fertilization. For beginners, watering is crucial in the first month after the orchid arrives at your home. Since orchid roots are succulent and drought-resistant, they are easy to transport long distances. It is recommended to choose bare-root Cymbidium orchid seedlings for observation, avoiding those with poor roots. If you don't know how to plant them, you can ask the seller to help, then wait a day for the root wounds to dry and heal before watering thoroughly until water flows out of the bottom hole. Then you can insert a toothpick into the pot to observe the soil moisture. Generally, consider watering for the second time when the toothpick is barely wet and the soil is dry at least half a finger deep, and continue in this manner. On rainy days, delay watering. After a month, when the leaves begin to shine, new buds start to sprout, and the leaves start growing, normal management can resume. Beginners can keep a journal to record watering times. Experienced gardeners can tell by the weight of the pot whether it's time to water. The general principle is to keep the orchids on the drier side. If the orchids are slightly under-watered, they may have some empty roots but can still be saved. However, excessive watering can lead to root and bud rot, which spreads rapidly, and if not cut in time, the entire plant can be lost. Remember this.
For beginners, it is recommended to find Phalaenopsis orchids that have bloomed in the market, as they are usually inexpensive after flowering. Use these to practice, and once you have mastered the watering method and can get them to rebloom, you can try other Foreign orchid varieties. Sphagnum moss plus a transparent plastic pot works well. Don't rush to replace it with a fancy pot. A transparent pot makes it easy to observe the moisture level. Generally, if there are small water droplets on the pot wall, you don't need to water. Only when the roots turn white and the sphagnum moss has no moisture left can you water. Absolutely do not water if it's not dry. Once you master the watering method, you can consider yourself to have entered the world of orchid care.
5. Fertilization: Orchids generally require little fertilizer, and Foreign orchids are usually more fertilizer-tolerant. For Cymbidium orchids, never use too much fertilizer, as excessive fertilizer can burn the roots, leading to root tip carbonization and difficulty in caring for the orchid for several years. Various organic fertilizers are发酵 are not recommended for beginners, as they can be smelly and difficult to control the concentration. I usually only use granular slow-release fertilizer. For Foreign orchids, a small amount of water-soluble fertilizer can be added to the watering routine, preferably following a 3-fertilizer-to-1-water ratio to avoid无机盐 accumulation that can cause root shrinkage. Well-fertilized orchids grow robustly with developed roots of moderate length and root skin color ranging from white to light yellow. Beginners should be cautious with fertilizers. Branded orchid soil usually contains fertilizer, and it should be used according to the instructions. Avoid using concentrated fertilizers to promote growth, as this can lead to long-term problems.
This is all I can recall. I hope it's helpful to beginners. Beautiful orchid photos are often the result of stepping on countless orchid corpses, and experience is something that needs to be accumulated through repetition. I recommend that everyone communicate with local orchid enthusiasts and adjust their methods according to their own situation. Orchids are actually easier to care for than most flowers, but they require some attention to bloom. Be patient with orchids; once the seedlings are strong, they will naturally produce flower spikes. It's best to let nature take its course.
I hope the above introduction to the care of Cymbidium, Foreign, and Phalaenopsis orchids (suitable for beginners) can be of help to you. Don't forget to check out more gardening experience and knowledge!