Here are some precautions for repotting orchids and an explanation of the cultivation method for Cymbidium.

Attention Points for Repotting Orchids

Do you know these? Here are some tips on the precautions for repotting orchids and the knowledge of growing Cymbidium with detailed introduction.

To grow orchids well, it is essential to master the skills of repotting. If you repot them improperly, it can easily lead to problems in later maintenance. Therefore, today I will share with you the 5 "key points" we need to pay attention to when repotting orchids. If these are done well, it can ensure strong root systems and vigorous growth, making flowering much simpler.

1. Timing of Repotting

When should we repot orchids? If you are in the southern region, it is best to choose between the Spring Equinox to the Summer Solstice and the Autumn Equinox to the Winter Solstice, that is, the spring and autumn seasons. If you are in the north, as long as the temperature is not below 5 degrees Celsius and not above 30 degrees Celsius, you can repot them. Of course, if you have an air-conditioned room or a greenhouse, you can repot them throughout the year. As long as the temperature is suitable and you master the skills, the orchids will quickly grow new roots and new buds. If you repot them during their dormant or weak growth season, it can easily lead to root and leaf rot.

2. Choosing a Pot

What kind of pot should we use to plant orchids? There are two common types of pots on the market: the tall and slender pot, which is very thin with many holes, and the short and fat pot, which is the round, large pot. Both types can be used to plant orchids, but they must be chosen sensibly. The tall and slender pot is space-saving, allowing the orchid roots to grow directly to the bottom. For orchids, as long as there are many ventilation holes, there won't be any issues. For the short and fat pot, it has a larger internal space, and during the hot and humid summer season, if the air temperature is high, the pot temperature will also be high. This type of pot has more planting material, which keeps the internal temperature of the pot from getting too high, preventing the roots from getting scorched in summer.

If you want to choose a pot, you can do so sensibly. Both pots can be used. We can choose according to the canopy of the orchid we buy. The canopy is the diameter of the plant when the leaves are gathered together by hand. For the tall and slender pot, it should be 1.5 times the diameter of the gathered plant. For the short and fat pot, use two to three times the diameter.

3. Planting Material

The key to growing orchids is to choose the right soil. Incorrect soil selection can lead to root rot, poor growth, and other issues. When choosing planting material, it also depends on where you are. If you are growing orchids on a rooftop where it is very dry and the water evaporates quickly, or if you are in a dry northern region, you should choose a moisture-retaining material, which means adding some water-absorbing substances to the material, such as peat or decomposed leaf soil.

If you are growing them indoors with poor ventilation and high humidity, especially in high temperature and humidity areas, you should add more granules, such as well-fermented bark, peanut shells, and small ceramic stones. However, no matter which soil preparation method is used, you need to add planting material to the soil, with drier regions adding fewer granules and those with poor ventilation or high humidity or indoor growing adding more granules to ensure the soil can quickly dry and not become waterlogged, preventing root rot.

4. Fertilizing After Repotting

Many people are confused about when to fertilize orchids, especially after repotting. There are two common types of fertilizers: slow-release and liquid. Slow-release fertilizers release nutrients slowly and have a low nutrient content, only ensuring that there are enough nutrients in the potting soil to prevent yellow leaves or stunted growth. You can use this type of fertilizer after repotting, such as sprinkling some on the soil surface, which will slightly penetrate into the soil and won't burn the roots, but instead will help them grow quickly.

Liquid fertilizers are fast-acting water-soluble fertilizers that quickly penetrate the soil and are absorbed by the plant roots. It is recommended not to use them within two to three months after repotting, as during this period, the soil already contains nutrients, and the plant relies on these nutrients to grow roots. Using too much nutrient liquid or fast-acting fertilizer will only lead to root burn and slow root growth. If the slow-release fertilizer releases nutrients too slowly and the plant grows slowly, you can use foliar feeding by diluting the concentration and spraying the leaves every ten to fifteen days. The leaves' pores can absorb nutrients, and as long as the concentration isn't too high, this can supplement the fertilizer without causing root burn.

5. Post-Repotting Management

How should we care for the orchids after repotting? First, we must water the orchids after repotting. Don't think that if you plant them in moist soil, you don't need to water them. The purpose of watering is to allow the roots to fully combine with the soil and to flush out fungi or impurities in the soil through the bottom holes. The entire pot should be kept moist to prevent root drying and allow quick absorption of water for new root growth, so this "root-setting" water must be watered thoroughly, not poured from the top, and avoid letting water accumulate in the leaf heart to prevent rot.