Various "Planting Soil" Identification for Succulents
Let's talk about the introduction of succulents, the identification of various "planting soils" for succulents, please see the detailed introduction below.
To learn how to cultivate lovely succulents, you need to lay a solid foundation. The first step is to learn to distinguish the planting soil for succulents. In fact, under each bright succulent plant, there is a handful of soil that silently does its job. So let's get to know these heroes that make succulents thrive together!
Ceramsite: Characterized by good breathability and fine pore structure inside, it can replace the bottom stone when placed at the bottom of the pot (since the pot for succulents is usually small and the bottom stone is too large), with large gaps and very suitable for drainage. Mixed with other soils in the middle, it is mainly used for water retention. Placed on the pot surface, it can be used for decoration and splash prevention. The particle size can be used according to preference, generally the larger the better when placed at the bottom. It has high hardness and can be reused after potting.
Red玉石: Everyone who grows meat knows, the most versatile succulent soil. Characteristics, expensive. The color is grayish-yellow when dry and reddish-brown when wet, making it easy to judge soil moisture. It is a mineral soil from Japan. There are many imitations in China, using sintering methods, with varying quality, and most of them powder within one or two years, including the Asahi red jade soil exported to Japan.
Coconut bran: Characteristics, pure natural, water retaining and breathable, very suitable for the needs of succulents. I like its coconut silk, high fiber, very fast drainage, conducive to root development. It is easy to agglomerate when used alone for a long time, and it is recommended to mix it with other soils. It can be completely biodegraded. Also, its cost-performance is very good.
Pumice: A volcanic soil, light, can fly away with a puff of air = =, characteristics, light, breathable, cheap! Personally, I think it is the best mixing soil material, and small particle pumice can completely replace perlite (I hate this stuff the most!). It has strong water absorption, and a large amount of air in the internal fine pores is beneficial for root respiration. The most important thing is that it powder very slowly! This is the main reason why perlite is completely defeated.
German Klasmann 422 peat: The best succulent soil, everyone who uses it knows. It belongs to moss peat, moderate fiber, almost tailor-made for Crassulaceae. Characteristics, soft, permeable, no impurities. When mixed with the previous pumice, it can almost eat all Crassulaceae, Aizoaceae, and cacti. Novices note that it does not contain any nutrients, so the freedom of adding fertilizers later is relatively high.
Perlite: It's probably炒作 by the greenhouse owners, what's so good about this stuff! It breaks when touched and floats when watered, it's all foam! The characteristic is just cheap. It doesn't absorb much water and will slowly float to the top over time when mixed in soil! When broken, it becomes dust, the helper of soil agglomeration! Anyway, it's very speechless...
Vermiculite: A mica-like structure, actually very easy to break, expands when wet, characteristics, water retention, very good water retention. The overall condition is slightly better than perlite, used to adjust soil moisture. The quality of various merchants is very different, I personally feel that the lighter the color, the harder it is, and the brown one breaks open immediately. It is recommended to replace it with pine bark.
Pine bark: It's actually the bark of pine trees, can absorb water, and many people also like to use it to grow moisture-loving plants like orchids. Mixed in soil, it can retain moisture and is rich in nutrients. Its abnormal structure can prevent soil compaction, and the succulents like to drill into their gaps, it's really a good product that kills two birds with one stone, but it's a hassle to break. It can replace vermiculite and perlite.
鹿沼土：性状和用法等同于赤玉土，较轻，但吸水性好，易粉化也就两年的样子。作为多肉种植的配土使用非常广泛。和赤玉土一样，个人不建议单独使用，虽然很多人都单独用这个，但时间长了其性状会变差，容易板结。
桐生砂：偏红色的火山石，含铁量较高，很重，是我碰到的最重的土，特点：坚硬，排水好，可以铺底层排水。没啥特别的性质，也好意思卖那么贵。
稻壳炭 / 砻糠灰：排水通气，碱性，通常用来调配土壤酸碱度。特点：便宜好用，并且富含钾肥，少量钙和镁，质地柔和有利发根。保护肉肉，蜗牛之类的软体动物都很讨厌这个哈~~
锦大绿颗粒泥炭：这个我很喜欢用啊，特点，硬度高，甚至可以当释缓肥，富含有机质、腐植酸，省的施肥麻烦，一般放中部或底部。因为不化，所以不会板结，也有利排水，我基本每盆都会搞点，一袋3.5升能用好多好多好多盆啊，呵呵。
蕾秀虹彩石：轻石，沸石(绿色)，熔岩石等混合土。硬度高，不会粉化，吸水透气，是非常出色的颗粒多肉土。缺点是太尖锐!太重!直接可种，类须根多的肉肉，需要加一半泥炭，我偏爱这种高硬度的多肉土，不用换土了哎。含小圆粒绿色的释缓肥，不过生长期最好还是自己施肥吧。
西萍多肉土：轻石，赤玉土，火山石，稻壳炭等颗粒土组成，已经加入释缓肥，拜尔杀虫剂，杀菌剂，挺综合的一款多肉土，直接可用。我第一次用的多肉土就是这款，当时觉得特好，很透气，怎么浇都成，后来发现这货里面的赤玉土质量超差，几个月后就开始陆续粉化，坑爹呢!
朝日仙人球土：含轻石、草炭、蛭石、珍珠岩，据说还有赤玉土，不过肉眼找不到，估计碎成渣了。特点，里面的草炭非常细，利于发根，不过也太粉了，手感很干，另外含有大量的珍珠岩，运输过程当中，很容易碎成粉末。总体上颗粒过于粉化，用过一次遂放弃。
锦大绿多肉土：轻石，草炭，泥炭，碎树皮，碎砖粒?等混合土，已加入肥料，和朝日多肉土一样属于细腻土，但是手感很湿，貌似怎么都不会干的样子，浇水也比较头疼，渗透性差，建议和轻石赤玉等其他颗粒土混合使用。
锦大绿兰花土：轻石，草炭，树皮，蛭石，碎砖粒?蛇木?等混合土。虽说是兰花土，不过我觉得很适合多肉植物，浇水下去渗的快，整体性状比锦大绿多肉土要好。树皮很多，土壤不易板结，对于粗壮根也提供较好的抓力，另外这个土蛭石的品质非常好。推荐和适量轻石赤玉等颗粒土混用
跟煤渣一个德行的多孔火山岩：吸水透气，全部是细微的孔，吸附土壤粉尘颗粒极强，可以纯用，和草炭一搅拌就“消失”了。这货纯属撒着玩。
植金石：这个必须水洗过才能用，粉尘太多了!干燥时白色，吸水后就变好看的金黄了，撒表面很好看!特点和轻石差不多，非常轻，硬度刚好，不会太硬也不会像赤玉土那样容易粉化，反正价格也差不多了。不含肥料，需后期添加。
Fafard发发得种植1号泥炭：和Klasmann422泥炭一样，属苔藓泥炭，两者性质差不多，都是出色的多肉土。感觉发发得的土质更加细腻蓬松，杂质更少，不过长纤维也少。反正都是做配土的，所以就没啥区别了。发发得的土都加了营养启动剂?不详，对于多肉聊胜于无。
德国Klasmann 414泥炭：和422号相比，纤维更多更加粗。Klasmann的工艺好粗暴的说，拿到手的土结块现象很严重，要一块块撕开，N玛做农民我容易么!虽然发发得的工艺好，一捏就碎，不过414的粗纤维很让人喜欢，怎么说呢，反正就是没有完美的土啊!
以上[]介绍的多肉植物各种“种植土”辨识篇的全部介绍了希望能给您带来帮助，最后别忘了多来瞧一瞧更多的养花经验常识！