Clivia Practical Cultivation and Breeding Techniques
Introduction: This article discusses the aspects of growing Clivia at home, practical cultivation and breeding techniques of Clivia, and will guide you to understand them together.
Clivia is a perennial herbaceous plant, with a flowering period from January to May, evergreen throughout the year, with high ornamental value in leaves, flowers, and fruits, mainly for leaf viewing. During photosynthesis, the amount of oxygen released by its leaves is dozens of times that of other flowers, and 4-6 hours of sunlight per day is sufficient. Therefore, it is the king of indoor greening and beautification. Over the years, it has been favored by people from all walks of life. It ranks among the top ten famous flowers in China.
Clivia Origin and Ecological Habits
Clivia is native to the forests of Natal Province, South Africa, and grows in soil composed of decayed leaves. Therefore, Clivia requires moderate light, appropriate temperature, loose soil, sufficient nutrients, suitable temperature, and good drainage and ventilation. This determines the requirements for fertilizer, substrate (soil), water, light, and temperature for growing Clivia.
Substrate
Over the years, the substrate used for Clivia cultivation has shifted towards soilless cultivation. Common substrates include:
1. Decomposed oak leaves, pine needles, and river sand (diameter 3-5mm) used together in a ratio of 6:2:2.
2. Decomposed oak leaves, pine needles, and furnace slag (diameter 3-5mm) used together in a ratio of 6:2:2.
3. Decomposed oak leaves and river sand used together in a ratio of 7.5:2.5 or 8:2.
4. Decomposed oak leaves, rice hulls (carbonized treatment), and river sand used together in a ratio of 6:2:2.
5. Decomposed oak leaves, rice hulls (carbonized treatment), and furnace slag used together in a ratio of 6:2:2.
6. Decomposed oak leaves.
7. Pine needles.
8. Coarse sawdust (electric planer shavings) and furnace slag (river sand) used together in a ratio of 8:2.
9. River sand and rice hulls (carbonized treatment) used together in a ratio of 2:8.
10. Furnace slag and rice hulls (carbonized treatment) used together in a ratio of 2:8.
11. Perlite and river sand, 2:8.
12. Perlite and furnace slag, 2:8.
In the first six types of substrate ratios, the decomposed leaves are essentially fertilizer. As they are prone to decay, they basically become mud in half a year, so it is necessary to repot and replace the "soil" once a year. It is also necessary to use clay pots with good air permeability. This is unfavorable for Clivia to enter thousands of households, especially since the resources of decomposed leaves are limited. Therefore, from the perspective of development trends, it should be changed. The eighth, ninth, and thirteenth types of substrates are easy to obtain, utilize waste, and should be the direction of development. The eleventh and twelfth types are not suitable because perlite is prone to break, has poor air permeability, and has a pH value above 7, which is alkaline, while Clivia prefers slightly acidic substrates. The pH value of rice hulls is 6.6.
Fertilizer
Clivia is the most fertilizer-loving flower. Common fertilizers mainly include:
Organic Fertilizer
Oil crop seeds such as hemp seeds and sunflower seeds are stir-fried or boiled and buried at the bottom or around the upper part of the flowerpot, with the substrate buried about 2 cm from the surface. Do not allow the fertilizer to directly contact, otherwise, it may burn the roots during fermentation. If the fertilizer has already fermented, it can be mixed with the substrate for use.
Sesame seeds, soybeans, freshwater fish, and rotten fruits are fermented with water for topdressing. When applying, dilute with water. The water-fertilizer ratio should be above 10 times, and it is best to apply it frequently and lightly.
Inorganic Fertilizer
Urea, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. Inorganic fertilizers are mainly used for topdressing. Apply with a dilution of 600-1000 times. If applied to the leaf surface, use a dilution of 1500-2000 times. Foliar spraying is mainly suitable for iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron, etc. Controlled-release fertilizers with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content and Clivia nutrient solutions are most suitable for home cultivation of Clivia.
Apply liquid topdressing every 10 days or so, and apply solid organic fertilizer every two months.
If the temperature is higher than 30 degrees or lower than 10 degrees, stop fertilizing. At this time, Clivia grows slowly and requires less fertilizer. Not stopping fertilization will cause the fertilizer concentration in the substrate to be too high, burning the roots and causing fertilizer damage.
Newly planted Clivia should be fertilized with liquid fertilizer after one month.
Water
Clivia is suitable for growing in slightly acidic substrates, so the pH value of the water should be below 7. If the pH value of the water is greater than 7, it can be neutralized with complex organic acids to make the pH value of the water between 5.5 and 7.
The amount of water and the interval between watering should be flexibly controlled according to the substrate, the air permeability of the flowerpot, the temperature and humidity of the air.
When the temperature is low, humidity is high, and the air permeability of the flowerpot and substrate is small, it is advisable to water thoroughly every 10 days or so. Conversely, it is advisable to water thoroughly every 5 days or so. For seedlings below two years old, sprinkle water in the morning and evening.
It is best to water thoroughly the day before fertilizing.
Light
Clivia does not like strong light and requires a short period of sunlight, so the shading time throughout the year reaches about eight months. Only from November to February can it be unshaded. From March to May, 30% shading nets should be used. From June to August, 70% shading nets should be used. From September to October, 30% shading nets should be used. Due to the differences in the age of the greenhouse and the light transmission of the glass, it is necessary to flexibly grasp the situation. In family living rooms or on balconies, you can adjust according to the above principles.
Temperature
The ideal growth temperature for Clivia is between 15 and 25 degrees. Generally, it can grow normally between 10 and 30 degrees. It grows slowly between 0 and 10 degrees. It enters a dormant state above 30 degrees. Moreover, above 30 degrees, combined with high humidity, various fungi will multiply in large numbers, causing Clivia diseases.
In winter, the minimum temperature required for warmth is 10 degrees. In summer, it is best to keep the temperature below 30 degrees.
In winter, to save energy, it is best to roll up the greenhouse insulation blanket after the sun rises, around 8:30, and put it down around 2:30 in the afternoon when the sun has not yet set.
In summer, in addition to using high-density shading nets, it is necessary to strengthen indoor ventilation and sprinkle water in the morning and evening.
Flowerpot
Clivia requires a flowerpot with good water permeability and air permeability, so currently, most people use yellow clay-fired flowerpots. The thinner the pot wall, the better. If the substrate used for cultivation has excellent water permeability and air permeability, such as coarse sawdust, electric planer shavings, rice hulls, furnace slag, and river sand, you can choose aesthetically pleasing porcelain and purple sand pots. For large-scale cultivation, clay pots are mainly used.
The size of the flowerpot should be selected according to the age of the Clivia and the development of its roots.
Seedlings can be planted in multiple plants in a 4-inch (13mm) pot.
One-year-old seedlings use a 4-inch pot per plant.
Two-year-old seedlings use a 5-inch pot per plant.
Three-year-old seedlings use a 6-inch pot per plant.
Four-year-old and above mature Clivia should be selected according to the development of their roots, using flowerpots from 7 inches to 1.5 feet for planting.
Years of practice have proven that using too large a flowerpot is not effective.
Propagation
Clivia produces offspring through sexual and asexual reproduction.
Sexual reproduction is carried out after mature Clivia flowers through self-pollination or cross-pollination.
The third to fourth day after Clivia flowers open is the best time for pollination. At this time, the stigma of the pistil secretes oily mucus. Choose a high-quality Clivia stamen as the male parent and apply the pollen to the stigma of the female Clivia. Pollination is best between 8 and 10 am every morning, and you can apply it again around 3 to 4 pm in the afternoon. This can improve the pollination rate. Cross-pollination through hybridization may select offspring with higher quality than their male and female parents. If a high-quality Clivia cannot find a suitable male parent, self-pollination is better.
Asexual reproduction is when buds grow on the rhizome of a multi-year-old mother plant. When several roots grow at the bottom of the bud, it can be divided. Simply break it off with your hands and then plant it in coarse sawdust, electric planer shavings, pine needles, and river sand. New roots will grow in about a month. The wound can be coated with methyl tolyl fluanid powder, dried, and then planted. The characteristics of the bud are basically the same as those of the mother plant, with little possibility of mutation.
Seedling Raising
Clivia fruits can be picked for seedling raising in 7 months. However, it takes about 10 months for the fruit skin to change from green to red, purple-red, or purple for the fruit to fully mature. The ornamental value of Clivia fruit lies here. The more mature and full the fruit, the stronger the seedlings.
Years of practice have shown that coarse sawdust and electric planer shavings are the best substrates for seedling raising. Use a shallow flowerpot or a 4-inch flowerpot, put the water-soaked substrate into the pot, level the surface, place the seeds with the germination eye side facing down, and then cover with a substrate about 5mm to 10mm thick. The best temperature is 23 degrees. Place the pot in the sun and keep the substrate moist. Generally, it will germinate in about 20 days. If the temperature is too low, the germination rate will be significantly reduced.
When the leaves of the seedlings grow to 1cm to 2cm, transplant them into the prepared substrate for cultivation.
For one-year-old seedlings and mature Clivia, it is necessary to fill the space between the roots with the substrate during planting. Otherwise, diseases may occur.
Main Diseases and Pests and Their Control
Red Spot Disease
Clivia red spot disease is mainly caused by fungi, molds, or viruses. The main symptoms are small yellow or red dots on the surface and back of the leaves, which gradually expand. In the early stage of the disease, spray the leaves with a solution made by dissolving methyl tolyl fluanid or chlorothalonil powder in about 500 times water. In severe cases, use this medicated solution to water the roots, or apply Kocide (mixed with water before use) to the affected area.
Soft Rot
Clivia soft rot is mainly caused by bacterial infection, with symptoms showing blackish-brown water-soaked spots at the base of the leaves at the onset of the disease, which quickly spread to the entire leaf. In severe cases, it can lead to the rotting of the central leaves, causing the entire Clivia to "wipe off" the head.
In the early stage of the disease, apply methyl tolyl fluanid or hydrated lime powder to the axils on both sides of the affected leaves. Use toilet paper to separate this leaf from the adjacent leaves. In severe cases, remove all the leaves to keep the central leaves free from infection. Dry the wound and sprinkle methyl tolyl fluanid powder on it, and then water the roots with a solution made from agricultural streptomycin or methyl tolyl fluanid mixed with 500 times water. If there is a problem with the roots, it is necessary to repot and replace the new substrate for re-planting.
Root Rot
Clivia root rot is mainly caused by excessive fertilization and the infection of various fungi.
For mild cases, use chlorothalonil for root irrigation. For severe cases, remove the rotten roots, dry them, repot, and replace the new substrate for re-planting. If the roots are completely rotten, as long as the rootstock is not completely rotten, scrape off the diseased part of the rootstock, apply fungicide powder, dry it, and plant it in sand or pine needles. New buds can be produced in about a month.
Most Clivia diseases are caused by high temperature, high humidity, large-scale reproduction of various fungi, combined with pest damage and human or mechanical damage, causing Clivia to be infected by fungi and develop diseases. Therefore, creating an environment with a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees and humidity below 70% with good ventilation is an effective method of prevention and control. In addition, before the arrival of high temperatures in April every year, spray the entire Clivia with a solution made from agricultural streptomycin, effective fungicide king, and Dupont Vapona (insecticide) mixed with 800 times water. Spray every 10 days, three times is preferable. This can play a preventive role.
Pest Control
Scale Insects
Adults are about 3mm long, white or reddish-brown, and oval-shaped. Scale insects use their long, needle-like mouthparts to pierce the Clivia leaf tissue and suck nutrients, causing damage. The affected parts form yellowish-white spots and can lead to various fungal infections.
For a small number of pests, wipe with alcohol. For severe pest infestations, spray the Clivia leaf surface, back, and leaf sheath gaps with omethoate according to the instructions. Spray every 10 days, two to three times is preferable.
Snails
Adults have round shells, about 5mm in diameter, with sturdy shell texture. They have two pairs of antennae. As they feed on Clivia leaves, flowers, and stems, they not only affect the aesthetics of Clivia but also cause wounds that are easily infected by various fungi, leading to more severe symptoms of harm to Clivia.
The main control method is to sprinkle snail killer or snail star granules on the soil surface and greenhouse ground. Spray with a solution made by mixing Dupont Vapona according to the instructions.
Slugs
Soft-bodied, with a snail-like head and one pair of antennae. The adult body can reach more than 5cm in length. The soft body can contract, with mucus all over.
The harm and control methods of slugs are basically the same as those of snails.
Wood Lice
Wood lice are commonly known as potters. They are gray or brown, oval-shaped, with two pairs of antennae. As they gnaw on the roots and stems of Clivia, they cause root and stem rot. In mild cases, several roots and stems of Clivia fall off, and in severe cases, all the roots and stems of Clivia fall off and separate, causing the entire Clivia plant to fall over, requiring the stem wound to be scraped clean and coated with medicine to regenerate the roots.
The control method is to spray a solution made by mixing Dupont Vapona according to the instructions on the flowerpot, ground, and plant.
The above shares a comprehensive introduction to the practical cultivation and breeding techniques of Clivia, hoping to bring some related knowledge of green plants to green plant enthusiasts.