How to cultivate Cymbidium
An introduction to the knowledge of orchidaceae for netizens who are concerned, how to cultivate Cymbidium, here is a detailed introduction.
Some new orchid enthusiasts do not know how to cultivate Cymbidium, the Quan Cheng Cymbidium Farm located in (T-W) Kaohsiung County, Sanlin Township, Yue Mei Village, is operated by Su Wu Xiong and Su Li Qiang, father and son, covering an area of over six hectares, cultivating various Cymbidium species such as Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium spatulate, and Cymbidium goeringii, and also providing planting experience to orchid enthusiasts. The farm is also a professional lychee production farm, growing varieties such as Yuhebao and Heiye.
They have rich experience and methods in cultivating Cymbidium, and here are their insights for readers to share:
◎Watering timing
Some say that to learn to grow orchids, one must first learn to water for three years, which highlights the importance of watering in orchid cultivation. The amount of watering varies with the season, location, and the condition of the orchid itself, so there is no fixed number. It can be said that as long as the surface soil is too dry, it is time to water.
As for the timing of watering, it is best to do so at dusk in the summer, and in the winter, when it is colder, it should be done when the morning sun just comes out, and try to let the water droplets on the leaves dry quickly. Because water droplets adhering to the leaves can act as a lens to refract sunlight and burn the leaves, or adhere to harmful bacteria spores in the air and cause diseases. Moreover, if the water seeps into the pot in the hot summer, it will rise with the temperature and cause root rot. Conversely, if watered at dusk in winter, it may freeze the leaves or roots due to the cold water at night. Generally speaking, orchids do not like the pot to be too dry for a long time, and it is better to maintain some humidity in the pot. Additionally, when watering, the sprinkler should be at least 30 centimeters away from the orchid leaves (which can allow some nitrogen in the air to dissolve into the water and become natural fertilizer) and the water flow should not be too strong (to avoid shaking the orchid and dispersing the planting material), and try to water until the water flows out from the bottom of the pot, which can completely replace the exhausted air in the pot.
◎Suitable temperature
Cymbidium can adapt to a wide range of temperatures, and the climate throughout the (T-W) island is suitable for cultivating orchids, so casual orchid growers do not need to pay special attention to temperature factors... If talking about the best temperature, the most suitable temperature during the day is around 23 to 28 degrees, and it is best to add black plastic netting (blocking about 50% to 70% of light) when it is too hot in the summer to avoid direct sunlight burning the flowers and leaves. The most suitable temperature at night is around 15 to 20 degrees, and the best day-night temperature difference is no more than 10 to 15 degrees.
◎Suitable humidity
Wild Cymbidium generally grows in mountainous areas with high humidity, relying mainly on rain and dew for moisture, especially liking to grow near clear springs or streams, where the relative humidity usually reaches 80% to 90%. Therefore, it is best to imitate its original natural ecological environment when growing orchids and try to increase the humidity of the space... The humidity in the orchid house should be between 70% to 90% (relative humidity), and if the humidity is insufficient, an electric atomizer can be set up to keep the space moist, adapting to the growth of orchids. For home orchid growing, a water tank, water tray, water trough, or sandstone can be placed in the orchid house to increase the water surface area and let the water evaporate upwards. Additionally, water can be sprinkled on the ground in the morning and afternoon on sunny days. However, avoid excessive spraying to affect leaf transpiration and avoid breeding mosquitoes in water containers...
◎Lighting brightness
Lighting is crucial for the growth of orchids. Cymbidium prefers the morning east sun, and if there is not enough light, the orchid will become weak and grow tall. If the light or west exposure is too strong, the leaves can easily be sunburned or sun-scalded, greatly reducing their ornamental value. Cymbidium is a semi-shaded plant but should have a light intensity of over 10,000 to 15,000 LUX per day, not too dark, with a shading rate of 50% to 70%. Increasing the light by 20% during the winter and spring is beneficial for orchid growth.
◎Ventilation status
When growing Cymbidium, it is important to pay attention to the ventilation of the site... If the orchid shelves are too low, too much coverage, the pots are too close together, or there are too many plants in the pot, the leaves can rub against each other, leading to poor ventilation, which can easily cause diseases and poor growth. To improve this, pay attention to the mentioned points and also use fans and exhaust fans to compensate. If the wind is too strong on one side of the site, a loose net or semi-transparent plastic board can be used to block it. And maintain smooth air flow and fresh air in the orchid house.
◎Choosing orchid pots
The best orchid pots are high-body unglazed pots, which have good water permeability and oxygenation and are easy to grow moss. The moss on the pot can reduce the heat absorption of the pot, preventing the orchid roots from being injured by strong sunlight, and also has a moisturizing effect. Glazed pots are second best but more attractive, and if the drainage holes are large and the feet are high, they can be compensated and used. Ceramic pots are beautiful but have high density; poor ventilation and water permeability may damage the orchid roots and are best avoided. High-body pots have a beautiful shape, making the orchids look upright and spiritual, and are beneficial for root growth. However, in recent years, due to the increasing scale of orchid cultivation among enthusiasts, the maturing of technology, and cost considerations, orchid pots have gradually been replaced by plastic orchid pots...
◎Planting materials
The best planting materials are those with some degree of moisture absorption, no chemical leaching, and no fertilizer adsorption on the surface. It is best not to use rice husks as planting material for home orchid growing, as it can easily cause ant nests (to prevent ants, sprinkle lime once every half year), and traditional methods such as mixing gravel and snake wood chips can be used.
◎Dividing and transplanting
In a greenhouse with heating equipment, division and transplantation can be done at any time except in the hot summer. In other environments, it is better to divide and transplant around the spring equinox or autumn equinox.
The order of division and transplantation:
Hold the pot with the left hand and tap the left wrist with the right hand, so that the roots in the pot will easily come out when they are shocked. If they are too well-developed and cannot be separated, carefully remove the stone particles and then take out the roots.
Before dividing, remove the decayed roots and carefully observe their condition, inspect and decide on the division situation. After deciding on the division point, part the area with the left hand and cut carefully with a sharp blade (scissors can also be used, but they are easily injured if not careful), and apply a fungicide to the cut surface.
Before planting, remove the remaining decayed roots and clean the area around the bulb... Decayed roots are weak and brittle, so they can be pulled out easily.
Both roots and leaves should be cleaned before planting, as leaves may carry scale insects or dirt, and the base of the leaves should be thoroughly cleaned.
New pots should be washed with water before use, and if using old pots, they should be scalded with boiling water and exposed to sunlight before use. Before planting, consider the posture of the plant by placing the roots in the pot, and decide the position of the roots.
Place thumbnail-sized gravel at the bottom of the pot to one-third, then add soybean-sized gravel to four-fifths, pack it tightly and leave no space, and finally pour in soybean-sized planting material (or cover with sphagnum moss), completely covering the pseudobulb with soil.
After planting, place the whole pot in water for one minute, then take it out and put it in a shaded place for about a week before managing normally.
That is a detailed introduction to how to cultivate Cymbidium (experience), have you understood it?