Cultivation methods of Cymbidium
The website tells you about the knowledge of Cymbidium, the cultivation methods of Cymbidium. Next, the editor will introduce.
2.1 Temperature: The temperature in winter should not be lower than 3°C, otherwise frost damage will occur. It grows vigorously and bears fruit between 20°C and 28°C. Under suitable temperature and humidity, most varieties can bloom twice a year, and some varieties known as "four-season orchids" can bloom four times. It is not tolerant to high temperatures above 32°C, and will freeze and die below 0°C.
2.2 Humidity: Cymbidium prefers moist conditions but fears waterlogging. Therefore, the cultivation environment needs to be frequently sprayed to increase humidity. The ideal relative humidity of the air is 65-70%. At the same time, it is necessary to spray the leaves frequently in dry seasons such as summer and autumn. The minimum humidity is generally not less than 50%, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and dry. In hot and humid weather in summer and autumn, ventilation should be strengthened to prevent root rot and leaf and stem diseases.
2.3 Light: Cymbidium prefers abundant scattered light and fears shade. The daily light intensity is generally 8000-10000LX. In summer and autumn, 70-80% of sunlight should be blocked, and in winter and spring, 30-40% should be blocked. Shading nets should be used in greenhouses or glasshouses, and ordinary transparent curtains can be used for home cultivation. However, in winter and spring, when the daily temperature is below 10°C, it can accept full sunlight to increase temperature, germinate, and enhance the plant's disease resistance.
2.4 Planting Material and Proportion: Cymbidium has developed and robust roots and requires higher soil breathability. Therefore, the planting material often chooses coarse and hard particle materials, among which inorganic particle materials such as small pebbles (without sharp corners) with a particle size of 7-10mm, perlite, ceramsite, calcined soil,植金石 (orchid stone), and broken brick particles (without sharp corners) are selected. One or two of these can be mixed, while organic materials such as peat soil, decomposed leaf soil, grass charcoal soil, fermented peanut shells, fermented sawdust, fermented wood shavings, and matured bark are used. The volume ratio of inorganic particle materials to organic materials is generally 2 to 1 or 3 to 2. German peat soil has good quality but very small particle size, and the mixed amount should not exceed 30% of the total volume.
Due to the stable granular structure of the inorganic coarse particle material after filling, there is sufficient space between the large granules for the storage and circulation of air (forming capillaries), plus a certain amount of relatively stable organic matter and fertilizer, the planting material and proportion can make the cultivation soil drain, breathe, and contain organic matter, which is beneficial for daily management and the healthy growth of Cymbidium, and can reduce the incidence of diseases. This modern planting material proportion is suitable for the physiological structure and natural habits of orchids, more scientific and progressive than ancient orchid cultivation, and more suitable for large-scale cultivation, saving effort and time.
Of course, you can also use full sphagnum moss or moss for planting, but the management of water and fertilizer is more difficult, and improper care or恶劣 environments can cause root rot. You can also use yellow sand soil and sawdust in equal proportions with an appropriate amount of coarse river sand as the planting material.
In summary, the sources of planting materials are diverse, and the proportions are varied. As long as the orchids are well-cultivated, they can be considered good planting materials. However, it is not recommended to use ordinary planting soil or clay soil for orchids, as they have poor breathability and are prone to compaction.
There are no universal planting materials and proportions, and it is necessary to adhere to the principle of adapting to local conditions to find suitable planting materials and proportions for one's own cultivation habits and environment. Generally, in high-temperature and humid climates with frequent rainfall, the proportion of coarse particle materials should be increased, while in low-temperature and dry climates, the proportion of fine particle organic materials should be increased. Since these two climates alternate throughout the year, it is generally necessary to change the potting soil in spring and autumn to adapt to climate changes and meet the growth needs of orchids in different seasons, thereby reducing the incidence of diseases.
2.5 Pot: The best choice is unglazed ceramic pots or earthenware pots with good breathability, followed by porous plastic pots, and glazed porcelain pots are the least effective.
2.6 Watering: There is no fixed pattern for watering orchids, which completely depends on factors such as the temperature and humidity of the environment, the water content of the soil, and wind force. Unless water is controlled before flowering to promote flowering, the potting material should be kept moist but not wet. The so-called "dry and wet" saying is actually unscientific and cannot grasp the dryness and humidity of the potting material.
The difficulty of cultivating orchids is determined by the special nature of their roots. Therefore, it is necessary to take good care of the roots when cultivating orchids. The key reason why beginners cannot cultivate orchids well is that the roots are not well cared for, which is partly related to the potting material and mainly due to not grasping the timing and amount of watering. If watering is not done when needed or not thorough, the roots will dry up (root cells' water molecules reverse osmosis into the potting material, causing drying and death); if watering is excessive when not needed, the roots will be drowned and rot (anaerobic respiration produces lactic acid and alcohol poisoning, and the massive reproduction of anaerobic bacteria). This is also the origin of the saying "three years of watering practice."
Orchid roots are fleshy, composed mostly of living cells, unlike the roots of many other plants, which are mostly lignified except for the root tips. Therefore, the demand for oxygen in the living cells of orchid roots (living cells require a large amount of oxygen for aerobic respiration to maintain life) is much greater than that of other root systems. Therefore, orchid roots require high breathability in the potting material, especially for Cymbidium with robust roots. Moreover, orchid roots do not have root hairs and rely entirely on cell osmosis to absorb water outside the cell membrane, and the water must be on the roots. Both gravitational water and adsorbed water cannot be used, only capillary water can be utilized, and if slightly farther away, none can be absorbed. This shows that water and air are a pair of contradictions; more water means less air, and more air means less water, which is not good. Therefore, the principle of timely and thorough watering is here, as well as the principle of using coarse potting material.
According to experiments, modern plant physiology theory believes that the best time for cultivating plants is when the moisture content is 70%. When the moisture content of the orchid potting material is below 60%, it will affect the normal growth and development of the orchid. The author does not know what kind of potting material these data were tested with, as different materials have different water absorption rates and different rates of water loss, which cannot be used as a basis for watering orchids. The most intuitive and objective method is to insert a fresh, unrotten bamboo stick or wooden stick into the potting material 5 centimeters deep and observe the change in color depth to determine the dryness or wetness of the soil, thereby determining the timing for watering. Of course, advanced instruments can also be used for measurement.
It is worth noting that the watering cycle and amount of orchids are closely related to the different physiological stages of orchids. During the vigorous growth period of nutrients, more watering is needed, while during high temperature and humidity weather, before and during flowering, water should be controlled and reduced or even stopped. After all, orchids are less likely to die from drought and more likely to die from drowning, and the drought resistance of orchid roots is very strong. As long as the environmental humidity is suitable, some orchid varieties can survive without watering for a month.
My basic watering practice is: in winter and spring when temperatures are low, water thoroughly every 7-10 days, in the morning or close to noon, and shorten the interval when the air is dry. In summer and autumn when temperatures are high, water thoroughly every 3 days, in the afternoon after the sun sets, and do not water on rainy days or in the high temperatures of the afternoon. In hot and humid weather in spring and summer, water to cool down and prevent root rot, and increase ventilation, using exhaust fans or electric fans if there is no natural breeze.
2.6 Ventilation: This goes without saying, as it is a basic requirement for cultivating orchids, determined by their natural attributes, related to the breathability of orchid roots and the respiratory function of the leaves. At the same time, ventilation can inhibit the growth of bacteria, especially the growth of certain anaerobic bacteria. It is best to have six-sided ventilation, that is, keeping the six sides of the pot: top, bottom, left, right, front, and back well-ventilated without obstructions. Good ventilation results in fewer diseases and healthier plants.
Now that the issue of watering has been clarified, let's talk about the problem of orchid growth ground gas. Ground gas used to be mysterious, but from the perspective of soil science, it is actually the humidity (vapor water) and heat (soil heat storage) in the soil, as well as the air and fertility within the soil. We know that the wild environment of orchids is mostly shaded with sunlight, well-ventilated, and rich in decomposed leaf soil, usually in the southeastern slope under the forest, with abundant precipitation, and rarely grows in low-lying, waterlogged, and shadeless places without sunlight (which is a good place for mosses and ferns to grow). Such places have good ground gas, warm in winter and cool in summer, with suitable humidity and temperature, and appropriate water content, moist but not waterlogged. However, for indoor potted orchids, because the area and volume of the potting soil are extremely limited, there is no ground gas, and only artificial "ground gas" can be created. This is the difficulty of indoor home cultivation of orchids.
2.7 Fertilizer: Orchids prefer dilute fertilizers. Since the prepared potting material contains little and incomplete fertilizer, it is necessary to apply thin fertilizers frequently. Fertilizer sources are also diverse, with many homemade organic fertilizers and commercial fertilizer varieties. It is recommended to use commercial compound fertilizers for home cultivation of orchids to reduce unnecessary troubles and prevent indoor environmental pollution and pest breeding. For convenience and effort-saving, it is recommended to use compound slow-release fertilizers, evenly placed 3 centimeters from the edge of the pot, without touching the orchid roots or pseudobulbs, 2-3g per pot, and additional specialized fertilizers can be added as needed. Below are the fertilizing essentials summarized by orchid friends for reference:
Germination Stage: Nitrogen fertilizer diluted and then diluted 8-10 times, ensuring that there is fertilizer in each watering, and foliar application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers 5-6 times a month. Ensure that the orchid plants absorb nutrients in time after revival, laying the foundation for the growth of new seedlings. Fertilizing should be frequent and dilute.
Spring Growth Period: When the minimum temperature reaches 12 degrees Celsius, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers should be mixed and diluted to water the roots once to promote the rapid division and differentiation of the mother plant's rhizome cells into new buds. This period is the golden season for orchid growth, and timely fertilizing is crucial for the year's production. Do not over-fertilize as it may damage the orchid plants; follow the instructions and slightly reduce the amount. Homemade fertilizers such as cake fertilizers should be used with caution after experimental observation. Do not rush, as the content of these fertilizers is not easy to grasp and can easily cause losses. Generally, diluting 500 times will not be a problem (not absolute). As the temperature gradually rises, new buds quickly expand, and foliar application of phosphorus fertilizers is recommended. Try to increase light exposure, fully utilize the plant's physiological functions, quickly absorb and transform fertilizer, and carefully observe the plant's growth after fertilizing to detect any fertilizer damage in time.
Spring Growth Vigorous Period: Since we have recently applied root fertilizers in proportion, most of the potting materials still contain some remaining fertilizer, so it is not necessary to fertilize again. Just apply 1/8 of the proportional amount with watering, and foliar application of fertilizers every 2-3 days will not affect the normal growth and development of the orchid plants. For pure coarse materials, root fertilizers can be supplemented once.
Stagnant Growth Period: During this period, due to high temperatures, most orchid plants stop growing, and the new seedlings that do grow are very slow. The parent plants are preparing to produce flower spikes. Therefore, it is still necessary to spray some phosphorus fertilizers to promote flowering in the parent plants.
Autumn Growth Vigorous Period: During this period, most of the new seedlings have basically matured, a few are half-mature, and by autumn they can grow into large, strong seedlings. The parent plants have basically produced flower spikes, and a few new strong seedlings may occasionally produce flowers. For orchids with flower spikes, root fertilizers should be stopped, and foliar fertilizers should be reduced by half. For orchids without flowers, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be watered once in proportion to ensure that the new rhizomes are large, which is a hope for flowering next year.
Winter Dormancy Period: Orchid plants basically stop growing, but those cultivated on balconies or indoors still need a small amount of foliar fertilizers, generally 2-3 times a month, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and should be sprayed in the middle of the day when the weather is sunny.
For more detailed information, you can refer to the book "Orchid Diseases and Pests Diagnosis and Treatment Atlas" by Xu Dongsheng.
The cultivation and management techniques of Cymbidium have been discussed here. Please point out any inaccuracies, and let's discuss any issues further.
This article shares the detailed content of the cultivation methods of Cymbidium, hoping to bring you help!