What to Do When Clivia Leaves Rot
As a representative of indoor ornamental foliage plants, the issue of Clivia leaf rot has troubled many plant enthusiasts. The succulent root characteristics make it demanding in terms of water and fertilizer management. This article will systematically analyze from pathological mechanisms to control measures, helping you quickly grasp the techniques for treatment and prevention.
I. Analysis of Causes of Clivia Leaf Rot
1.1 Root Rot Caused by Waterlogging
The succulent roots have weak water storage capacity. When the soil moisture content exceeds 60%, root respiration is obstructed, forming an anaerobic environment. Continuous waterlogging for 3 days can lead to necrosis of the root epidermal cells, which in turn causes vascular bundle blockage, manifesting as soft rot at the base of the lower leaves.
1.2 Metabolic Imbalance Caused by Fertilizer Damage
Decomposing fertilizer releases ammonia gas that burns the root hairs, and concentrated fertilizer (EC value > 2.0mS/cm) causes cell wall separation. Damaged roots lose their absorption function, leading to yellowing and rotting of the leaves due to reverse nutrient transport.
II. Emergency Treatment and Drug Therapy Plans
2.1 Three-Step Physical Treatment Method
Immediately stop watering and fertilizing, and make 15-20 breathable holes in the potting soil with bamboo chopsticks. Move the plant to a ventilated environment with temperatures between 18-25°C and keep the humidity ≤50%. For severe cases, repot and prune the roots: retain 5 cm of healthy rootstock and soak in a 1000-fold potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes.
2.2 Guide to Disease Control and Drug Use
For soft rot: apply a 72% agricultural streptomycin solution at 1500 times concentration to the roots; for cottony disease, use a 50% carbendazim solution at 800 times concentration; and for scale insect infestations, use 40% trichlorfon emulsion. Treat once a week for 3 weeks to establish a protective barrier.
III. Long-Term Preventive Maintenance Guide
Use a mixture of pine needle soil and perlite (3:1) as the substrate, maintaining a pH of 5.5-6.5. Follow the "dry-wet" principle in spring and autumn, and use the "sitting pot method" to water in summer. Apply "thin and frequent" fertilization, using a special slow-release fertilizer for orchids once a month during the growing season.
Through scientific diagnosis and systematic control, 90% of Clivia with rotting leaves can recover. The key is to grasp the three principles of "early detection, quick treatment, and emphasis on prevention," combined with environmental control and drug intervention, to restore the beauty of your Clivia's upright leaves.