Rose Cutting Propagation Techniques
An introduction to rose cutting propagation techniques in the field of green plants and flowers, with specific details as follows:
Rose Cutting Propagation Techniques
Roses are a type of rose plant in the Rosaceae family. They have graceful flower shapes, bright colors, strong fragrance, long blooming periods, and wide adaptability. They are listed as one of the world's four major cut flowers, along with chrysanthemums, carnations, and gladioli, and are a main product of the global flower industry. Rose propagation can be divided into asexual and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is mainly used for breeding new varieties or rootstock production. Asexual propagation includes cutting, dividing, layering, and tissue culture. Cutting propagation not only maintains the superior traits of the parent plant but also has the advantages of being easy to learn, fast propagation, and high survival rates.
Propagation Time
It can be carried out in spring and autumn. In spring, it is from the end of April to the end of May. At this time, the climate is mild, and the branches are lush. The plants can take root after a month, with a high survival rate. Autumn cutting is done from the end of August to the end of October. At this time, the cuttings are greatly affected by the day-night temperature difference, and root formation is relatively slow. The rooting period is 40-50 days, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cutting.
Preparing the Seedbed
2.1 The cutting seedbed should be located in a place with deep soil layers, loose structure, good water permeability, and smooth drainage.
2.2 The specifications are 1 meter wide and 3 meters long (note that the size of the seedbed has little effect on the survival of the cuttings, and should be determined according to need). When large-scale propagation is needed, a larger bed can be chosen, and vice versa.
Medium Selection
Rose cuttings can also root directly in ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high, and it is not suitable for large-scale production. To prevent the cuttings from rotting during the rooting process, formaldehyde can be added to fine sand. At a rate of 5ml/m3, place the fine sand on a clean sandy beach and turn it over 3 times to allow the formaldehyde to fully volatilize. After 3-5 days, the bed can be filled. When filling the fine sand, it should be evenly placed on the seedbed, lightly pressed, and watered once to make it permeable. When the water is not dry, gently scrape the sand surface with a wooden block.
Choosing the Branches for Cutting
Select one-year-old branches that are strong and not too old or too tender from plants that are vigorous, free from diseases (powdery mildew, black spot), as these affect the survival rate. The branches that have just finished flowering are the best. To prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and black soot during harvesting, a 75% wettable powder of carbendazim can be sprayed 1000 times.
Cutting Treatment
When there are too many branches, they should be soaked in water or stacked under a shaded shed (frequently sprayed with water to keep them moist).
The harvested branches should be pruned, first removing the残 flowers from the upper part of the branches, selecting the middle and lower parts of the branches, cutting a section every 10 centimeters or so as one cutting, leaving 3-4 axillary buds on top. To prevent the loss of moisture and nutrients from the cuttings and to promote rooting and control the growth of leaves, the upper end of the cutting should be cut straight and the lower end cut diagonally. The distance between the cutting edge and the axillary buds should be a few millimeters. The scissors should be smooth to form healing tissue, which is beneficial for rooting. Avoid cutting, otherwise it will be difficult to root and grow into seedlings. The collected branches should be cut as soon as possible and processed within 1-2 hours.
Propagation Method
Try to coordinate pruning, processing, and cutting. When cutting, the skin should not be damaged. Generally, a small hole is made in the cutting bed with a 0.6-0.8cm wooden stick (about the size of a chopstick), and then the cutting is placed in the hole. The depth of the cut is 1/3 of the length of the cut, with a spacing of 10cm × 15cm. After insertion, press the sand lightly with your hands. When cutting, attention should be paid to maintaining the polarity of the cuttings, especially those without leaves. Avoid cutting backward (making the bud eyes face upward), otherwise it will affect the survival rate. For those with leaves, it is best to make the leaves in one direction (towards the light). After cutting, sprinkle a little fine sand and water once to make the cuttings adhere closely to the sand.
An arched shed, white plastic film, and shading net. The plastic greenhouse can adjust the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the shading net can prevent direct sunlight and reduce the temperature. In addition to covering the seedbed top with a shading net, curtains should also be hung on the east and west sides of the seedbed to reduce morning and evening sunlight. The optimal temperature for rose rooting is 20-25℃. If the temperature is too high, in addition to covering with a shading net, cooling can also be achieved by watering and ventilating.
Management after Insertion
7.1 The temperature after insertion should not be too high: too high temperatures will cause the axillary buds to sprout rapidly and grow into tender branches. Inexperienced growers may think this is a good sign. In fact, it is a sign of cutting failure because roots need to be cut. If the new branches sprout first, the consumption of nutrients in the branches will affect the rooting rate, otherwise the entire cutting will die. Therefore, to promote rooting, the temperature should be kept as low as possible. Generally, the temperature should be controlled between 22-26 degrees℃. When the temperature is too high, water can be poured on the shed or ground, or ventilation can be used to cool down.
7.2 In the early stage of water absorption, the water supply should not be excessive, generally watered once every 7-10 days. After a month, the cuttings begin to take root and grow, and the water consumption gradually increases. Watering is done every 3-5 days. The amount of watering should be determined by the soil moisture and air humidity, keeping the soil moderately dry and wet. The optimal water conditions after cutting: the field water holding capacity of the seedbed is about 80%, and the relative humidity of the air is 80%-90%. If the humidity is too high, the amount of watering can be controlled and ventilation strengthened; if the humidity is too low, the amount of watering and the number of sprays can be increased.
7.3 Weeds should be removed in a timely manner, but the seedlings should not be moved.
Transplanting Seedlings
Under the condition of an environmental temperature of 22-26℃, the cuttings can take root after about a month. At this time, the plastic film can be opened in the morning and evening for ventilation to the seedlings, and the ventilation and lighting time can be gradually extended to make the seedlings basically adapt to the external environmental conditions. After 7-10 days, the seedlings can be transplanted to a greenhouse or pot. The soil used for transplanting should be sandy loam without fertilizer渗透, otherwise it is easy to cause the seedlings to rot. Water once a day before transplanting. During the entire transplanting process, pay attention to avoiding direct sunlight.
Seedling Management
Potted rose seedlings should be kept in a shaded shed or other shady place for 7-10 days. During this period, they should be sprayed with water frequently to keep them moist. In the first few days, they should be exposed to some sunlight in the morning and evening, and then the duration of sunlight can be gradually extended. Since the root system of the seedlings is not very developed, do not rush to fertilize, at least 3 weeks later, fertilize with water every 10 days or so. Although the rose seedlings have survived, some growers always think that the seedlings are growing too slowly, so they can promote the growth of the seedlings by fertilizing according to their own wishes. This approach is not advisable because it takes 1-2 months for rose seedlings to go through cutting, rooting, transplanting, and entering the rapid growth stage. At this point, the rose seedlings should gradually adapt to the external environment and then grow rapidly. If growers rely on fertilization to promote seedling growth according to their own wishes, the past will go against their own wishes, and the seedlings will die as a result. After a long period of stagnation, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage. At this time, some plants will grow some flower buds. To avoid nutrient consumption, these flower buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 months of management, the rose seedlings can be sold.
At this time, growers can take them to the market (C-S) or transplant them to the field or larger pots according to their needs.
The above-mentioned methods of rose cutting propagation techniques are for reference and suggestion.