Rose grafting techniques commonly used methods
Today, the editor will explain the planting content of rose China roses, the commonly used methods of rose grafting techniques, the following is a detailed introduction.
Rose grafting techniques are not out of reach for ordinary flower friends. As long as you understand some basic knowledge and try more, it is not difficult to graft. You will never know how simple and interesting it is unless you try your hands on it.
When talking about rose grafting techniques, let's first understand a few concepts, what is the cambium layer?
A "film" with only one or two cells thick between the xylem (the lightest colored part of the branch cross-section) and the phloem, which is invisible to the naked eye. Aligning the cambium layer is the primary condition for all successful grafts! Theoretically, the larger the contact area between the scion and rootstock cambium layers, the higher the survival rate. In practice, the alignment of the outer edge of the xylem or the inner edge of the bark can be chosen according to the difficulty of the actual operation. By the way, in bud grafting methods such as T-graft or door-graft, which require peeling the bark, the cambium layers are face-to-face (the contact area is equivalent to the peeled bark area), which is much larger than the side contact (only one or two cell widths) in branch grafting, which is the main reason for the high survival rate of these grafting methods. The following diagram is an example of the cambium layer.
In fact, under ideal conditions, a little contact between the cambium layers of the rootstock and scion is enough for survival. The problem is that survival requires multiple conditions, including moisture retention, temperature control, sun protection, and infection prevention, which are not always ideal. To increase the survival rate, it's best to have more contact between the cambium layers!
Rootstock, scion: The rootstock is the carrier that supports the grafted variety during grafting. For example, if I graft a枝 of Marie rose onto a rose plant, then the rose plant is the rootstock, and the Marie rose branch is the scion.
Bundling, usually made of narrow strips of plastic film. The bundling should be tight enough to fit the cut surface closely, securely tie the scion, and seal without water leakage, but not too tight. If not sealed, the scion is prone to drying out; water leakage can cause infection; and too tight can affect the circulation of sap.
Let's start learning several commonly used methods of rose grafting:
1. Branch grafting, as the name implies, involves grafting the scion (a segment of the branch, not the bud) onto the rootstock. There are many methods of branch grafting, and the commonly used methods for roses are cleft grafting and splice grafting. In fact, these two categories are essentially the same except for the position of the cut. Cleft grafting is often used for thicker rootstocks, such as specious osmanthus as the rootstock for tree roses; the root grafting method often seen online belongs to splice grafting.
Cleft grafting
Splice grafting
The suitable season for branch grafting is generally the dormancy period, with the best time being early spring before the sap flow resumes. A few points need to be emphasized:
Knife technique: Strive for a flat and straight cut, preferably in one stroke. Only a flat cut can fit closely. To achieve good knife technique, please prepare a sharp blade and practice diligently in winter and summer, rising early and sweeping the courtyard...
Bundling: If possible, please seal the cross-section of the rootstock and the top of the scion, otherwise they are prone to drying out. For small cross-sections, you can directly cover them with grafting film, and for large cross-sections, it is best to use grafting wax. Some people in reality use yellow mud, but that requires a level of skill where even a falling leaf can cause injury, so it's not for the faint of heart.
Season: The highest survival rate is at the end of winter and early spring before the sap flow resumes. Other seasons are also possible, but the survival rate is not as ideal, especially for beginners.
Care: Adapt to local conditions.
2. Bud grafting, commonly used methods for roses include T-bud grafting, door-bud grafting (also known as open door, with the largest area of cambium layer contact and the highest survival rate), and embedded bud grafting. There are no specific requirements for the season, but the first two require peeling, so it's best not to do it in seasons like winter when the bark is difficult to peel. From this perspective, embedded bud grafting is the only method that can be performed throughout the year, and it is also the simplest method, suitable for beginners. Since many bud grafts are performed during the growing season, it's best to retain some leaves on the rootstock (at least remove the top, otherwise the apical dominance will make the grafted bud wait until you can't bear it before germinating), and wait until the grafted bud has sprouted and can provide nutrition for the roots before cutting the rootstock.
Door-bud grafting:
T-bud grafting first cuts the rootstock, removes the shield-shaped bud piece, and please note the "small bone" in the picture above, which is the vascular bundle on the back of the bud. Be careful not to lose it when taking the bud piece, otherwise even if it "takes," it's just like changing the skin of the rootstock, similar to a cosmetic surgery, and don't expect it to sprout and grow. Also, when taking the bud piece, strive for clean and quick movements. A qualified bud piece should have a moist and smooth back, and avoid taking it with tendons and flesh, which is not conducive to survival. Place the removed bud piece in your mouth to keep it moist (or you can keep it moist in pure water). Then quickly cut the T shape on the rootstock and peel the bark at that location, followed by positioning and binding, etc. Retaining a small piece of the petiole is for easy checking of survival, but it can also be left off.
Here I highly recommend embedded bud grafting, for the reasons mentioned above. Embedded bud grafting does not require stripping the bark and includes some wood.
The operation is very simple and self-explanatory. The main thing to note is aligning the cambium layer on at least one side. The emphasis is still on the knife technique, with flat and matching cuts and quick, clean movements.
The above sharing of the commonly used methods of rose grafting techniques, I hope you will like!