What are the methods for pruning apricot trees in winter
The editor will explain the methods for pruning apricot trees in winter and the green plant flower planting content of the pruning techniques for the main trunk shape of apricot trees, specifically as follows:
In the same natural environment and the same water and fertilizer conditions, different pruning techniques for apricot trees in winter can lead to significant differences in economic benefits the following year. Many apricot farmers come from apple tree farming and blindly apply apple tree pruning techniques to apricot tree pruning, often resulting in the lack of economic benefits for the apricot orchard.
So, how should apricot trees be pruned? How should the branches on the trees be categorized? Which branches can produce commercial fruit? Which branches only bloom but do not bear fruit? Pruners of apricot trees must understand this, otherwise, they will definitely enter误区.
Misunderstanding 1: Using the winter pruning techniques of apple trees on apricot trees
The management techniques for apricot trees are not complicated and are fundamentally different from those of apple trees, but also different from peach trees and plum trees.
Techniques such as ring girdling, notching, bending, branch softening, and light pruning and long resting used in apple tree management cannot be applied in apricot orchard management. The approach to cultivating fruiting branches in apple trees is: one-year branches, two-year flowers (referring to flower bud differentiation), and three-year fruiting, with the fruiting branches having continuous fruiting ability and a longer utilization period. However, the fruiting branches of apricot trees can all form flower buds in the same year, and their utilization rate is only one year. This means that apple trees rely on old branches for fruiting, while apricot trees rely on new branches for fruiting. Knowing this principle, pruning apricot orchards with apple tree pruning techniques is counterproductive and it is not surprising that there is no economic benefit.
Recommended tree shape for apricot trees
Misunderstanding 2: Overemphasizing tree shape and intentionally selecting and training central leaders
The commonly promoted tree shapes for apricot trees across the country are varied, such as: main trunk shape, spindle shape, open layer shape, natural round head shape, Y shape,丛 shape, open heart shape, small crown layer shape, etc. We have tested all these shapes in our Hongrui apricot tree demonstration garden and found that they all have their drawbacks. Specifically, the trees cannot control their apical dominance, leading to continuous outward movement of the fruiting positions and easily forming tall, large, and empty trees.
Currently, the tree shape promoted in apricot cultivation is the "improved natural round head shape." This shape has five major advantages: 1) Easy to shape; 2) Not too demanding; 3) Easy to bear fruit; 4) Easy to manage; 5) The fruiting position does not move outward. The shaping process of this tree follows the growth characteristics of apricot trees, with no obvious central leader, all the main branches bending and extending, the tree shape natural, the branch groups compact, following nature, and not forcing it.
The apical dominance of apricot trees is the most obvious among all fruit trees. Intentionally selecting and training central leaders is wrong, and allowing the main trunk to bend and extend to weaken its apical dominance is the correct approach.
Misunderstanding 3: Being too reluctant to cut branches, leaving too many flowers, resulting in a full tree of flowers but no fruit setting
When cutting, it is essential to first recognize the various types of branches on apricot trees, which is the most basic knowledge. After the leaves of apricot trees fall, all large branches, small branches, long branches, and short branches are clearly visible. Although they may seem dense, they are actually composed of only four types of branches: (1) short fruit branches, (2) conical branches, (3) flowering branches, and (4) fruiting branch groups. Since there are certain differences in the timing of formation, internal quality, and flower bud fullness among these four types of branches, they must be treated differently during winter pruning.
Many apricot tree management books mention cutting off 1/2 or 1/3 of the branches, which is extremely wrong. Short fruit branches are the main position for producing commercial fruit, while the tips of conical branches and the flowers on flowering branches from top to bottom are mostly incomplete flowers. Even if a few fruits are formed, they are too small to have commercial value and must be removed during winter pruning. The more ineffective flowers left, the greater the consumption, the fewer fruits set the following year, and the nutrients should be concentrated on the retained flower buds, "attacking one point and not the others."
Misunderstanding 4: Not considering tree age and variety, using a uniform technique
Different pruning techniques should be used for different ages of trees: one-year-old trees should focus on promoting growth, with the primary goal of rapidly expanding the canopy; two-year-old trees should focus on rapidly expanding the canopy and shaping the tree; three-year-old trees should increase the training of fruiting branch groups on the basis of perfecting the tree shape, laying a good foundation for future high-quality and high-yield production; and large trees over four years old should focus on training and updating fruiting branch groups, controlling apical dominance, and pressing the fruiting position downward to achieve continuous high-quality and high-yield production.
Different techniques should be used for different purposes, and the various skills of "Thirteen Pruning Techniques for Apricot Branches" should be flexibly applied. It is absolutely not advisable to have a single technique and uniformity. The main reason for low yield is that too many single branches are trained during tree shaping, causing the main branches to grow straight, the back part to be bare, and the nutrients to be concentrated on the periphery. When shaping young trees, the main branches should be bent as much as possible, combining winter pruning with summer management, at least bending twice a year to avoid growing straight.
Misunderstanding 5: Winter pruning time is either too early or too late
Due to the different geographical environments and various arrangements for farm work, the pruning of apricot trees can last up to four months from defoliation to sprouting. People in different areas continue to prune, but most people prune around the New Year, because they are afraid that the pruning cuts will freeze. Apricot trees can naturally withstand -35℃ in winter, and as long as the lowest temperature in winter is within -20℃, there will be no frost damage to the pruning cuts. The golden period for winter pruning of apricot trees is from seven days after defoliation to the end of the fifth nine-day period. Pruning too early will result in the waste of nutrients as the organic matter has not yet flowed back. Pruning too late will result in the removal of flower buds that should have been removed, causing excessive consumption, weakening the tree's strength, resulting in smaller fruit size and later maturity. Pruning too late causes greater losses than pruning too early.
The above information on the methods for pruning apricot trees in winter and the specific content of the pruning techniques for the main trunk shape of apricot trees can bring you help if you remember to visit the website often!