What are the characteristics of Red Dragon沙宝石?
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Whether it is the Pink Dragon沙宝石 or the Red Dragon沙宝石, they are both popular among flower enthusiasts. Some flower enthusiasts want to know the characteristics of the Red Dragon沙宝石. Compared to theoretical characteristics, the planting experience of flower enthusiasts is more practical. Let's take a look at the experience of flower enthusiasts. Red Dragon沙宝石 (Red Eden Rose) - bred by the French company Meilland (Alain Meilland) in 2002, an upright climbing variety with sturdy branches, poor climbing performance, and supported by a trellis to control the plant's shape and structure. The flower diameter is 8-10 cm, with more than 80 petals, purple-red or dark red, cup-shaped, and the flower surface is flat. It has a slight fragrance when the temperature is high. Flowering period: from late March to December in subtropical regions in the south, and from May to October in the north. Single flower duration is 5-7 days, with a multi-season flowering habit. The number of flowers in summer and winter is significantly reduced.
This variety has excellent heat resistance and strong adaptability to different regions. I have planted it in an outdoor earthenware jar with a diameter of 50 cm, under full sunlight, without any shading or rain protection measures throughout the year. The location is Changsha, and the planting time is 2 years after potting the cuttings.
This variety has good resistance to diseases and pests. The only pest I have observed is thrips during the dry periods of summer and autumn. Spraying with Abamectin & Pyridaben combined with sticky insect boards can control them. It is not affected by other diseases such as black spot, powdery mildew, sooty mold, downy mildew, and dry branch disease.
The potting mix I use is: yellow mountain sand: coal slag: fermented leaf wood shavings mixed with a small amount of oil cake = 4:3:3. The bottom of the pot is covered with tiles to cover the holes, and a layer of foam irregular particles mixed with large ceramic particles is laid at the bottom as a water-filtering layer to prevent water accumulation during the rainy season in spring and summer. Please configure the soil according to your own environment and climate conditions. Do not blindly follow trends, especially提醒 southern flower enthusiasts in rainy and humid areas not to use peat soil and perlite formulas because these soils have high water content and can easily cause waterlogging in the pots, combined with high temperatures, which often leads to root respiration obstruction, disease, and烂根 withering seedlings.
Daily management:
Although planted in a jar outdoors, it still cannot be compared with ground planting and can only adopt a detailed management similar to potted plants. Since the jar is 40 cm higher than the ground, the plant height is controlled to about 1.5 meters for convenient observation of flowers.
Spring planting precautions: The leaves of this variety are thick, glossy, and dark green, requiring a large amount of fertilizer. During the vigorous growth periods of spring and autumn, dilute compound liquid fertilizer is applied every three to five days with watering. Since the leaf surface is smooth and has poor adhesion, no foliar fertilizer has ever been used. Fertilization is generally avoided during rainy days. If it is not convenient to apply liquid fertilizer during continuous rainy days, you can bury about 15 grams of granular fertilizer or about 100 grams of decomposed organic fertilizer powder at the edge of the pot to supplement the nutrients lost due to continuous rain.
Summer watering: It is known that no fertilizer should be applied during the high-temperature period of strong sunlight in summer. Due to the large size of the plant and the number of leaves, water evaporation is significant (from both the leaf surface and the potting soil surface). Watering should be done in the morning and evening when the temperature is low, avoiding watering at noon, which can cause wet steaming and disease, and the plant will become wilted. In the midsummer高温 period, short bursts of heavy rain often occur (the soil is not thoroughly wetted, just the surface is moistened), and it is necessary to water the potting soil thoroughly in time to cool the soil, spray the plant to wash away harmful bacteria that multiply rapidly, and not to be lazy or take chances to avoid wet steaming and disease.
Autumn precautions: The air is dry, and watering should be done in a timely manner, not waiting for the soil to be completely dry to prevent the withering of tender buds after autumn, and also to spray insecticides to prevent pests.
Winter pruning: When the daily temperature drops to 5°C or below and lasts for more than a week, the plant will enter a dormant state. At this time, weak branches, diseased branches, aging branches, and inward branches should be pruned to control the height and shape of the plant, and base fertilizer should be applied. I use fish intestines as the base fertilizer, with a fresh weight of about 4 kg, buried around the roots at the edge of the pot, and covered with soil after even distribution. No watering is needed unless there is continuous drought for more than ten days without rain or snow. Some straw or sawdust from wood can be used as an anti-freezing measure before freezing.
Several questions:
Flower friends often ask about fertilizer: What kind of fertilizer to use? Organic fertilizer is better if conditions permit, but chemical fertilizers are commonly used by urban flower friends. There are various types, so choose for yourself. Generally, compound fertilizers are used, applied frequently in thin layers, with a balanced supply of macroelements and usually no deficiency of trace elements in the soil. During the flowering period (after bud formation), additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to ensure large and colorful flowers. Excessive use of chemical fertilizers can cause soil compaction, and long-term application of a single type of fertilizer can significantly affect the soil's pH value and may cause nutrient element antagonism, leading to plant nutrient deficiencies. These issues must be addressed, so attention should be paid to fertilizer rotation and monitoring and timely adjustment of soil pH.
Flower friends often ask about the slow growth of young seedlings: This is actually a common problem with young climbing roses, which is inherent. In the early stages, young seedlings focus on root development, and only after forming a full and strong root system can the plant enter a strong and vigorous growth period, so patience is required in cultivation. Generally, after a year, as long as water, fertilizer, and sunlight are sufficient, the Red Dragon will enter a period of vigorous growth, especially in the early spring rainy season, when it is easy to develop 5-7 strong basal branches (shoots).
Flower friends often ask about the failure of Red Dragon flower buds to open: This is also her inherent nature. According to my observations, this phenomenon often occurs during the early spring and late autumn and early winter flowering periods. When the daily temperature is above 25°C and the light intensity is above 50,000 lx, the petals can naturally open.
Friendship reminder: Like other climbing roses, if you plant her in a阳台 with weak sunlight, the plant often grows poorly, with excessive stretching and few small flowers. Therefore, I提醒 those who have balconies to think carefully.
In summary, I believe that the Red Dragon is an excellent classic climbing rose variety. As long as you have outdoor planting conditions, she has good genetic qualities and does not require a lot of time and effort to manage.
The specific introduction of the characteristics of the Red Dragon沙宝石 (experience) shared above is for reference by netizens.