How to transplant after the rose cutting has taken root
An introduction to the knowledge of rose transplanting after cutting and the precautions for rose transplanting, here are the detailed contents to be shared next.
Many flower friends have finally succeeded in rooting the rose cuttings through continuous learning and experimentation, but after transplanting, yellow leaves, black stems, withering, or no growth for a long time often appear. What exactly is the reason for this? Today, MuMu is here to tell you how to transplant after the rose has rooted and how to manage it after transplanting.
One: Use a small pot for transplanting
About 20 days after cutting, the branches either have rooted or have died with black stems. At this point, we can start preparing the pots for false planting.
Although the roses can survive whether they are planted in any pot or directly transplanted into the ground after rooting, providing a more suitable environment helps to increase the survival rate.
The newly rooted roses are like a newborn baby, very fragile, with underdeveloped roots. For them, water is the basis of life, and water is also their biggest enemy.
Since the roots are not well developed, if we use a pot that is too large, the soil will not dry for a long time, either from absorption by the plant or evaporation, which can easily lead to long-term water accumulation in the rose roots. This is not only bad for the plant's growth but could also cause root rot and death due to waterlogging.
PS: MuMu's suggestion
Theoretically, the smaller the pot for transplanting newly rooted roses, the better. However, considering practical operations, MuMu recommends two sizes of pots for everyone.
The first is the common gallon pot, using a 0.5-gallon or 1-gallon pot for false planting newly rooted roses is considered appropriate. This size of pot is not too large, and the soil capacity is not too much, easily preventing root rot and beneficial for the initial root growth. Generally, after half a year, the roots can fill the pot. Also, the time for false planting in this size pot is slightly longer, avoiding the troublesome task of frequent potting.
The second is to further increase the survival rate, which, of course, corresponds to a bit more work.
Using professional seedling trays, such as double-color trays or nutrient bowls, about 12*12 in size, these pots have a smaller volume, which is beneficial for more precise water control and is very good for root growth and development.
However, while these small pots are less likely to be waterlogged, due to the small pot and less soil, it is essential to observe the degree of drought carefully and avoid water shortage.
How to transplant after the rose cutting has taken root
Two: Don't skimp on nutrient soil
Many flower friends say that roses are not that delicate and can survive with any kind of soil. Yes, this is correct. But if you want to increase the survival rate, you must provide a better growing space for it.
Soil, as the most basic planting material, directly affects root growth and thus the normal growth of the plant.
When we pull out the newly rooted roses, we can clearly see that the roots are still white and very fragile, easily broken if not careful.
If we use a hard, compacted medium for transplanting, it not only easily breaks the roots during planting but also makes root growth very difficult after false planting due to the hard soil. Therefore, we should provide as soft, breathable, and water-permeable a medium as possible for newly rooted roses.
PS: MuMu's suggestion
Since newly rooted roses use relatively small pots, the cost of nutrient soil will not be much. When false planting, try to use a professional nutrient soil mixture of peat, perlite, and coconut brick. This type of nutrient soil medium is very beneficial for root growth and water control. No matter what medium you use, the ultimate standard is to keep it loose, breathable, and non-waterlogging.
Additionally, there are some online sellers who sell northeast peat under the name of "nutrient soil." Everyone must be careful when distinguishing. To clarify, it's not that northeast peat is bad, but the media sold as nutrient soil using northeast peat are very fine, mixed with some cheap small-particle perlite, which has poor water permeability and breathability, and may contain eggs of insects. If you want to use such a medium, try to add some large particles to improve it.
Three: Transplant carefully
When we have prepared the pots and medium for false planting, we need to start preparing for transplanting. Since the roots are still very fragile at this point, we must be careful when transplanting. The number of roots that flower friends cut themselves is generally small, unlike the large number of cuttings from seedlings, making the roots even more precious and the consequences of damage more severe.
When we pull the roots out of the cutting pot or seedling tray, we may encounter resistance. At this point, we need to gently pull them out, and if we can't pull them out, we can gently squeeze the seedling tray or the cutting pot to make the medium softer, and it will be easier to pull out.