"Essential Reading for Rose Lovers" Series Six
Answering netizens' questions about related topics such as roses, the sixth series of "Essential Reading for Rose Lovers" provides an in-depth introduction for you below
Usually, the daily pruning of roses involves removing the spent flowers after blooming, at the position of one or two leaves below the flower, mainly depending on the thickness of the branches. For thick branches, one leaf is enough, while for weaker ones, two leaves are needed. The cut should be slanted to prevent water accumulation and disease.
Observe frequently and clear away pest- or disease-infected branches promptly. There are two types of pest branches: one with small holes (1 to 2 mm in diameter) on the cross-section of the woody stem, where pests definitely reside; cut little by little until the pest is found. The other has tiny black holes on the bud with black liquid oozing out, such buds should be cut off directly as they are infested with small flesh-eating pests.
From July to September, clear away the small lateral branches that do not bloom, generally not longer than one handbreadth, with no flower buds at the top, the branches themselves are dark green and look old, and they should be cut close to the main branch completely. Another method is to clear the flower buds from late spring to early summer after the full bloom, and then continue to do so throughout the hot summer. This way, by early autumn, there will be a batch of flowers as magnificent as in spring. The advantage of this approach is that it saves nutrients, does not tire the plant, and is conducive to the robust growth of the plant.
Autumn pruning should be done later, waiting until the rose leaves have all fallen and the plant is fully dormant. If pruned too early, new buds may emerge and be damaged by low temperatures, affecting the next year's growth. I plan to prune before spring myself.
For climbing roses, there is no need to cut them short, but spent flowers should be removed after blooming. Pruning of climbing roses is mainly to maintain an aesthetically pleasing shape. Neatly comb through the disorderly branches, remove diseased and unattractive ones, and then tie and secure them again.
For shrub roses and miniature roses, pruning should be done without destroying the aesthetic shape of the plant, to shorten the distance for nutrient transport and promote robust growth. I have summarized the following points to note:
1. For ground-planted roses, especially those with close spacing, do not cut too short, otherwise, the branches will be short and thick, which is not conducive to ventilation. Of course, this should also be combined with personal preferences - cut less if you prefer a tall, tree-like plant, and more if you prefer a low, spreading plant.
2. For plants with thin branches, cut more to promote robust growth, and for those with thick branches, cut less to enhance the visual impact.
3. To maintain the overall shape, be willing to cut; horizontal branches take up space and affect the overall beauty, so it's best to remove them.
4. As old branches age, they produce fewer flowers, so they can be cut and replaced annually, but not all at once.
The above shares the complete introduction of the sixth series of "Essential Reading for Rose Lovers" on rose pruning. I hope it can be helpful to you. Don't forget to check out more gardening experience and knowledge!