Rose cutting in the plum rain season
This article provides a detailed explanation of the experience in rose propagation during the plum rain season. Let's introduce it to you by following the editor of this site.
Rose cuttings are divided into hard wood and soft wood cuttings. Hard wood cuttings are done in October, while soft wood cuttings are done during the plum rain season. When cutting, grasp 1 centimeter below the internode on the branch and then insert it into the wet yellow sand. The surrounding small environment should be kept moist. During rose cutting propagation, abnormal phenomena such as brown leaves and brown tips, leading to withering, may be caused by two possible reasons: one is poor drainage and aeration of the cutting matrix, without necessary disinfection, resulting in the base of the cuttings failing to root in time. The second is insufficient light and poor ventilation during the management after cutting, which fails to prevent diseases, leading to the invasion of powdery mildew and brown spot diseases under unfavorable external conditions, causing the new leaves and tender tips to wither.
Rose cutting from early May to the beginning of July is ideal using soft wood cuttings. Select branches from the current year after flowering, cut at the first set of 5 small leaf compound leaves, and about 5 days later, bend the middle and lower part of the branches with slight elasticity. The cut surface should be small, grayish-white, and the tissue should be full, with axillary buds not yet germinated. Cut about 10 centimeters long sections as cuttings, with about 3 to 4 buds, and the lower cut should be located 0.5 centimeters below the node. Only retain the base of 2 sub-leaves on each compound leaf of the upper part of the cutting, remove the rest, and cut off all leaves at the lower part; immediately insert the cuttings into a matrix mixed with equal parts of vermiculite and river sand, or a matrix mixed with equal parts of alkaline-free糠灰 and river sand. The depth of the cutting in the soil is about 1/3 of its length, then soak the pot with water and cover with plastic film to keep it moist. For the first 2 to 3 days, place it in a location with scattered light, then gradually increase the light, maintain a rooting temperature of about 25°C, and it will root in about 15 to 20 days. After the cuttings have rooted, remove the plastic film cover, provide adequate light, and regularly spray 75% wettable powder of carbendazim 500 times to prevent powdery mildew and brown spot diseases. After 1 to 2 months of cultivation, they can be transplanted. Roses bloom all year round with beautiful colors and are loved by many. The cutting propagation method is simple, labor-saving, and space-saving. Here, we briefly introduce the cutting technique for roses during the growing season.
During the best season for rose growth and flowering, cuttings can bloom in the same year. From April to May in the first half of the year and September to October in the second half, temperatures of 20 to 25°C are the best times for rose cuttings. Use shallow earthen pots or shallow wooden boxes with loose soil, good drainage, and ventilation, and soil free from root-knot diseases and other pathogens, such as 7 parts of loose vegetable garden soil mixed with 3 parts of糠灰 or perlite. Before use, it is best to spread the matrix on the cement ground to sunbathe and disinfect with sunlight or liquid.
Select branches that are half-woody, strong and healthy, free from disease, with new buds at the axils not yet sprouting. It is best to cut in the morning with dew, and during the rainy season, cuttings should be taken on sunny days, otherwise, it is easy to cause plant rot or mold infection.
Use the heel cutting method. Cuttings are about 10 to 15 centimeters long. If too long, the top part can be cut. Remove the base leaves with the petiole and retain some leaves on the top, cutting off the two main leaves, tender tips, flower buds, and remaining flowers to reduce water loss. Insert immediately, with a depth of about 3.5 centimeters. Too shallow may cause lodging, and too deep may cause decay. Then press the soil with your fingers. The density of cuttings should be such that the leaves of the cuttings do not overlap. After cutting, water thoroughly with a fine-mist sprayer until water flows out from the bottom of the pot. After cutting, cover the cutting bed with a curtain or place it in a shaded area to avoid direct sunlight.
The survival of cutting seedlings depends on management. Management can be divided into three stages, each lasting 7 to 10 days. The first stage is the shady and moist stage, where direct sunlight should be avoided, and on sunny days, the curtain should be covered in time. When the leaves are dry, use a small sprayer to spray the leaves to prevent them from drying and falling off. The second stage is the healing stage. The wound begins to heal, and too much water should be prevented, otherwise, it will cause the wound tissue to rot. Gradually let the potting soil dry up. Early and late, increase the time for weak sunlight to promote photosynthesis and promote wound healing and root growth. The third stage is the root growth stage, where sunlight exposure time can be gradually increased, and water can be added when the potting soil is dry. If the old leaves do not fall off and new buds have grown, it means the roots have grown, and the cutting seedlings have survived.
With proper management, the cuttings will root in about 30 days and can be transplanted after 40 days. If珍珠岩 and vermiculite are used as the cutting matrix, as they lack nutrients, the cuttings should be transplanted early after survival.
The above is the specific content of rose cutting during the plum rain season. If it can be helpful to you, remember to visit the website often!