How to adjust the shape of the rose plant?
The editor will tell you about how to adjust the shape of the rose plant in terms of green plants and flowers. Keep reading!
Yesterday, we introduced the method of controlling the shape of the rose plant, but for plants with a more striking shape, we still need to focus on adjusting the shape first. So today, let's specifically introduce the adjustment methods for rose plant shapes in the southern regions, which are also applicable to other regions.
Southern Region/Rose Growth Period Shape Adjustment
Roses in the southern region do not hibernate in winter, so they grow all year round. If not paying attention, the shape may grow biased, either too tall, always solitary, or with weak branches.
Then, according to different seedling conditions, we choose different shape adjustment methods.
1. Weak Branch Type
If the potted plant is generally healthy but has many thin and weak branches, the best approach is to press the branches to promote suckers.
About pressing branches to promote suckers, it has been introduced many times before. In the book "How to Raise a Rose from Scratch," there is also detailed information. If you are not clear about the method, you can refer to it. Here we focus on the adjustment methods for the latter two shapes.
2. Tall Plant Type
Some rose plants grow very tall because the terminals were not pinched in time when the suckers were growing. Therefore, the pruning amplitude after flowering is small, and over time, a tall plant is formed.
With few branches but thick and strong ones, in this case, you can also press branches to promote suckers. However, because the branches are hard, it is impossible to press them, so you can only use the method of twisting branches. But many gardening friends are not familiar with the twisting operation and worry about breaking the branches, causing the whole rose plant to die.
Then we can choose a safer approach and retain the water-absorbing branches for pruning.
Specific Approach
Select a strong branch and only do light pruning, retaining most of the leaves for photosynthesis, and prune the rest of the branches heavily. Since we retained a strong branch to produce nutrients through photosynthesis, the heavily pruned branches will sprout from near the bottom.
When the new leaves grow to a certain height, we can pinch the top, and when the new buds turn green, we can prune the retained water-absorbing branches heavily. After the pruning, new buds will also sprout from the bottom. In this way, we can get stronger new branches and achieve shape adjustment.
3. Solitary Branch Type
Some roses may have only one sucker that grows very tall, then blooms and branches out, while other branches become weak, eventually forming a solitary branch.
For solitary roses, we generally adjust the shape when changing pots in winter. Specific methods can be referred to in the book "How to Raise a Rose from Scratch," but since the southern region does not hibernate, we can only adjust during the growing period. A recommended approach is to control the buds.
What is controlling buds? It is controlling the growth of bud points. If you can combine controlling buds with applying bud-breaking hormones, the effect will be better.
Specific Approach
If there are many weak branches at the bottom, you can cut some or all of them, depending on the specific condition of the plant.
First, apply some bud-breaking hormone at the bottom of the strong branches of the rose or at the position where you want branching, preferably at a hidden bud point. You can also use a product like "Huasi" from Guoguang, applying it with a cotton swab on the position where you want the buds to grow.
Then, shallowly bury long-acting and fast-acting compound fertilizers around the pot. If you are not sure about the amount, you can only shallowly bury controlled-release fertilizers and microbial fertilizers, or you can use fermented organic fertilizers,总之需要 fertilizers with a lasting effect.
With the fertilizers buried, the rose has a basic guarantee for sprouting new buds. After that, maintain normal care and persist in applying fast-acting water-soluble fertilizers every three to five days.
Note: When there is sufficient fertilizer and water, the rose will first sprout new buds at the top of the branches. At this time, be sure to remove the top new buds in time, as this is the core operation of controlling buds.
Because plants have a top growth advantage, and so does the rose. When there is sufficient fertilizer and water, the new buds at the top of the old branches of the rose will germinate. If no treatment is done, it will be difficult to achieve the purpose of adjusting the shape.
In the whole process of controlling buds and adjusting the shape, all new buds that are not sprouting from near the base should be removed. When the new buds are removed, the nutrients will flow back to the roots, and the hidden buds at the base are more likely to sprout, especially since we have also applied bud-breaking hormones.
When new buds sprout from the bottom, you need to pay attention to their growth. When they grow to a certain height, you can pinch the top to promote branching.
No matter what shape, we need strong new branches to adjust the shape, and the premise for strong new branch growth is sufficient fertilizer and water. Therefore, before promoting suckers or buds, make sure to apply fertilizers, combining long-acting and fast-acting fertilizers for better results.
The above introduction on how to adjust the shape of the rose plant is hoped to be liked by everyone!