Methods for Pruning Roses in Winter
Core Content: Experience with roses, methods for pruning roses in winter, detailed introduction as follows:
Pruning roses in winter is best done in February, a period that sets the agreement for blooming. Winter pruning should be carried out during the dormancy period of the roses. Depending on climate and geographical location, the dormancy period usually ranges from December to February of the following year. Pruning at any time during this period will not affect spring blooming, with February being the most suitable time. In February, new buds begin to sprout, allowing the selection of good and strong buds to be retained, and methods for identifying good buds will be discussed later.
The reason why February is the best time for pruning is that after pruning in December, buds may sprout prematurely in the warm sunshine and then be damaged by the cold in January. If pruning is done in March, important nutrients accumulated in the roots will have already been transported to the leaves, which can severely weaken the plant. Therefore, the best time for pruning roses is in February. Based on the region where I live, after the cold spell in February is a good time for pruning. Before pruning, first remove the dead branches and other unwanted ones.
The branches that need to be tidied up include: dead branches, branches affected by diseases and pests, branches thinner than a pencil, and inner branches (branches surrounded by outer branches). These branches should be cut from the base. Different rose systems have different pruning methods, so please be aware of that.
Here is a general diagram of winter pruning:
Left text: The intensity of pruning is influenced by the variety and the growth rate of the plant. Generally, the three buds below the cut become flowering branches. Right text (from top to bottom): Light pruning (removing 1/4 of the plant's height), medium pruning (removing 1/2), heavy pruning (removing 2/3).
Roses can be roughly classified into the following systems: Old Roses (Old); Hybrid Tea Roses (HT); Floribunda Roses (F); Miniature Roses (Min); English Roses (ER). This time, I will discuss the pruning methods for Old Roses and Hybrid Tea Roses. Pruning method for HT system (large-flowered varieties that bloom throughout the season):
Top right: HT system. Top left: On the flowering branch from last May, find a strong outward-facing bud and cut about 5mm above the bud point. Bottom left: For new shoots from last year, prune on the first section (new branches pruned after flowering) to inhibit excessive elongation. Bottom right: Cut off the old branches close to the base, as well as thin and dead branches.
If branches are cut by 1/2 to 2/3 (medium and heavy pruning), the number of flowers next year will decrease due to the limited number of buds, but this method is suitable for the system and allows it to bloom into full,华丽 large flowers.
Pruning method for Old Roses:
Top: Old Rose system. Bottom left: Cut off thin and dead branches. Bottom right: Trim the tip of the strong branches slightly (the thin part of the tip, the top of branches with many flowering branches after flowering).
Old roses also require winter pruning. Because of the different shapes, it is difficult to make a general statement, but generally, the pruning amount is less than that of the HT system, leaving more branches. Heavy pruning can inhibit the growth of flower buds. The following explains the pruning method of branches, please refer to the diagram:
Buds facing towards the center of the plant are called inner buds, and those facing outward are called outer buds. Pruning is generally done at the position of the outer buds. Pruning at the position marked with a blue line allows the branches to grow outward, ensuring ventilation and sunlight for the plant. Pruning at the position marked with a red line allows the branches to grow inward, which can lead to crowding and affect ventilation and sunlight.
About the position and angle of branch pruning:
Top left: Correct method, cut 5-8mm above the selected strong bud, parallel to the bud point. Bottom left: If pruning is too close to the bud point, the bud will not sprout. Top right: The angle of the cut is opposite to the direction of the bud point. Bottom right: If the upper part of the bud point is left too long, it is prone to blackening from top to bottom.
The cutting position should be 5-8mm above the strong bud, with a diagonal cut parallel to the bud. Please prune at the selected strong bud with the correct method. Make sure to use a sharp pair of scissors, as a dull pair can cause the cut to break and lead to dead branches.
The following are full strong buds:
The lower bud is full and strong. The upper bud has overgrown. Please refer to the following diagram:
Top left: Good bud, unactivated strong bud, compact, round, and full. Bottom left: Unactivated bud, cut here if there are no good buds. Top right: Long and not compact bud, cannot expect good flowers. Bottom right: The activated bud will also become a weak branch. I think this diagram is easy to understand.
以上, 关于月季冬季修剪的解说至此结束。由于方法很多所以本文仅供参考。月季因系统的不同维护手段也不一样，这一点请注意。希望大家的月季能在春天开出华美绚丽的花朵!
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