Summer rose cutting techniques to improve your survival rate

Summer Rose Cutting Techniques

Are you curious about the techniques for cutting roses in the summer? Let's understand and learn about it together.

Summer Rose Cutting Techniques to Improve Your Survival Rate

Roses, known as the queens of flowers, are evergreen or semi-evergreen dwarf shrubs that bloom all year round. They come in a variety of bright and rich colors, including red or pink, occasionally white and yellow, as well as mixed colors and silver-edged varieties. With their beautiful flowers and diverse appearances, they are deeply loved by people. However, some people propagate roses due to their limited flowering, but with the current summer high temperatures, there are certain requirements for cutting.

Green Branch Cutting

Green branch cutting, also known as soft branch cutting, is done during the rose growing season using the current year's new shoots. It is generally carried out from June to October in the summer and autumn. When the top flowers of the new shoots wither, the branches below the flowers, which are full and have plenty of buds, are cut as cuttings.

The cuttings are 10 cm long, with three buds, the upper bud cut about 0.7 cm from the tip, and the lower bud about 0.2 cm from the base. The leaves are removed from the node inserted into the cutting bed. The above-ground part retains 1-2 nodes with 1-2 leaves, and some small leaves are cut off as needed.

The cutting bed is made of clean river sand or vermiculite, perlite, and rice husk ash, which are loose and breathable materials. The spacing between cuttings is 4-5 cm. Roots develop in about 10-15 days, and seedlings can be transplanted after about 20 days.

Cultivation Management After Cutting

Water and Humidity Control

This is mainly controlled by spraying water and covering with plastic film. Before spraying water, check the moisture of the bed and the condition of the seedlings, and spray water as needed. When the temperature is low, you can spray once every 3-6 days, and when it's hot and dry, you can spray twice a day. As the cuttings heal and grow, gradually increase the amount of water sprayed.

The standard for spraying water is to keep the soil and the cutting branches and leaves moist, so that the cutting absorbs water in balance with transpiration. If blackened or rotting cuttings are found while spraying, they should be removed promptly.

In addition, you can also spray water around the cutting bed to create a humid microclimate, and immediately cover it with plastic film after spraying to keep the air around the plants humid. An air relative humidity of 80%-90% is most suitable.

Temperature Control

1. Air Temperature

In the hot summer, with generally high temperatures, for a small number of cuttings at home, you can place them in a well-ventilated and shady indoor area; for a larger outdoor scale, you can cover them with two layers of shade curtains. Spraying water on the shade and around the bed can help cool down.

2. Water Temperature

There are two common methods to control water temperature: one is to water in the morning or evening; the other is to expose water in a pond or large jar to raise the temperature before watering. This prevents cold water from injuring the seedlings due to a large temperature difference between water and ground temperature, affecting the cutting's root formation and survival.

Ventilation

Plastic film should be opened every morning for ventilation and aeration, and covered immediately after. As more cuttings take root and survive, you can gradually open on both sides. When the cuttings have taken root and survived, remove the plastic film.

Cultivation Management After Rooting

Rose cuttings begin to take root and survive after 25-30 days. Since the cuttings have rooted and can absorb water on their own, the amount of spraying should be controlled, reducing the frequency of spraying and increasing the amount of water, but avoiding excessive moisture in the substrate that could affect the growth of new roots due to insufficient oxygen.

After 45 days, the plastic film can be completely removed to gradually adapt to the external environment and undergo adaptive training. After 50 days, you can apply organic fertilizer or spray 3% urea for foliar feeding. When fertilizing, follow the principle of low concentration and multiple applications.

This article shares all the content about summer rose cutting techniques and how to improve your survival rate, which green plant enthusiasts can refer to.