Rose cutting methods
The editor explains the related content of rose cutting methods, such as rose cutting techniques. Here is a detailed introduction.
There are many rose cutting methods, and flower friends have summarized a lot of them. No matter which method, the most important is practice to find the most suitable rose cutting method for yourself. Let's look at a flower friend's experience in rose cutting, which can help flower friends succeed directly in cutting. I have tried many methods, and the best result is using the vermiculite tray method. Pay attention to a few important points, and the survival rate is very high, with most varieties surviving over 80%.
One, temperature is very important: There are two types of temperature, one is the weather forecast temperature, such as 28-35 degrees, and the other is the actual temperature. Place a thermometer next to the cuttings. In the summer, I cut several dozen seedlings, the weather forecast temperature was 28-35 degrees, but the thermometer next to the seedlings showed 48 degrees at noon (even higher inside the medium), and later all the dozens of seedlings died. Do not cut when the actual temperature is higher than 35 degrees, preferably below 30 degrees. If you have equipment, high temperatures are the best time to cut, but it's unnecessary to buy equipment for home gardening.
Two, branches: Cut sturdy branches for cutting, as weak branches take longer to root and are not easy to survive. Using tender branches has the highest survival rate, and cutting the branches below the flowers about a week after flowering has the highest survival rate.
Three, moisture treatment: Place in a moisture box to bask in the sun for a week, then remove the lid and bask in the sun, making sure to add water every few days without moving the seedlings. If the temperature is low or humidity is high, there is no need for a moisture box; just place the seedlings in a tray to bask in the sun. Be careful not to move it, add water to the tray, not in the cups. The water in the tray should be 1-2 centimeters high. Make sure to bask in the sun.
Four, other precautions:
Some varieties are easy to survive, while others are not. Soil cutting is not easy to survive, as I have cut dozens of seedlings and only two survived. Sand cutting easily causes black stems and has a low survival rate. Water cutting requires changing water, is difficult to pot, and roots slowly. Bud cutting requires attention to moisture.
I use the full vermiculite tray method. Just buy some vermiculite, and you can find the required transparent cups and trays. Management is worry-free, and the only thing to do after cutting is to ensure there is water in the tray. Make a few holes in the cup bottom, fill with vermiculite, place in a tray filled with water, and let the vermiculite absorb enough water. Trim the branches, cut one branch per bud point, or two or three bud points. Insert the branches into the vermiculite. Press the medium firmly, as it's easy to get black stems if not pressed. Place outside in the sun, add water when needed, and transplant when new leaves grow and the roots are close to the bottom of the cup. Most varieties are transplanted in about 30-50 days.
Five, after the cuttings have rooted, wait for new leaves to grow before transplanting. Leaf photosynthesis provides nutrients for the roots, and more roots make it easier to survive. Transplanting without leaves or with too short roots is difficult to survive. You can first raise the seedlings in small nutrient pots with medium such as peat, vermiculite, perlite, or potting soil, then transplant after the roots have developed. Timing is important. Successful cutting is half the success, and successful transplanting is the other half. It's best to transplant when the new leaves turn green.
The seedlings I cut include Juliet, Carola, Red Double Joy,绯扇 (Fei Shan), 粉扇 (Fen Shan), 古龙 (Gu Long), 龙沙宝石 (Longsha宝石), Abans, Alec Red, Hila's Fragrance, Grand Parade, Xiangyun, etc., as shown in the picture.
The above sharing of rose cutting methods (goodbye to black stems) provides a comprehensive introduction, hoping to bring some knowledge of green plants to green plant enthusiasts.