Clematis cultivation
Here is an introduction to the knowledge of clematis cultivation for home gardening, some useful tips and knowledge, it is recommended to collect for future reference!
To understand how to cultivate clematis, let's look at a flower enthusiast's years of planting experience. The author is located in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai region, and the experience in the article is suitable for early blooming large flowers, late blooming large flowers, and Florida group clematis, while other varieties can be used for reference.
1. Soil mixture and fertilization
I have tried various soil mixtures, and I feel that the most suitable one is coconut fiber: perlite: vermiculite in a ratio of about 4:1:0.5, with a handful of Ogreen or Aibei fertilizer. Perlite has water drainage and breathability, and vermiculite has cation exchange properties and acts as a buffer for fertilizer. The ratio does not need to be precise. Peat can be added or not, but it should not be more than coconut fiber. Peat may be very suitable for the north, but it is too moisture-retaining in the Jiangnan region, not suitable for large pots, while it can be used in small pots. Clearly, plant roots do better in coconut fiber, whether it's clematis or roses, and fertilizer can be supplied externally.
Fertilizer: Base fertilizer with Ogreen or Aibei, any model containing trace elements can be chosen. I don't want to buy a lot of fertilizer or麻烦 myself with fertilizing, so I use Ogreen 318S or Aibei 18-6-12 for roses, plus a handful of agricultural calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer (slow-release phosphorus fertilizer like bone meal can also be used, phosphorus fertilizer is useful for flowering later). Top dressing: General potassium sulfate compound fertilizer NPK 14:14:14. Simply sprinkle some on top, and it will seep down with watering or rain. Use 10-20 pellets per gallon every half month to one month. Using water-soluble fertilizer may have the same effect, but it's not as convenient.
Do not use garden soil. Garden soil may be suitable in other regions, but in the Yangtze River Delta area, it is mostly sticky paddy soil, which is poor in water retention and breathability for potted plants. Dry soil hardens like iron, and wet soil becomes muddy, which is very unfavorable for clematis roots to grow and breathe. Even mixed into the soil, it will destroy the porous environment created by coconut fiber and perlite, leading to weak growth. If there is coal slag, it can be mixed with some to help supplement potassium.
2. Size of containers
The popular saying online now is: small seedlings with small pots, medium seedlings with medium pots, and large seedlings with large pots, step by step.
My own planting experience is that small seedlings with small pots is correct, and using large pots can easily lead to death. Seedlings from the spring can be planted in a 10-15 cm pot and can be repotted by June.
Seedlings of P9 size or 10 cm pots, if fully rooted and you have space, there is no need to worry about changing to a larger pot. My experience is to directly change to a 2-gallon pot. Do not water too much, causing excessive moisture. Large pots are actually harmless, and even a few days of continuous rain is not a problem. Clematis will not bloom many flowers in the first year, giving enough space for root growth. In the second year, many buds will burst from the base. With sufficient space, the growth rate of roots is faster than expected. Large pots also have the advantage of reducing watering.
3. Sunlight and shading
Clematis flowers do not require high sunlight, and half-daylight is enough. However, they grow better under full sunlight, and some varieties, such as Josephine, can only grow well and bloom many beautiful flowers under full sunlight.
Therefore, it is best to provide half a day or more of sunlight in spring and autumn. If you don't have such good lighting conditions, you should choose varieties carefully, such as some large-flowered varieties that can tolerate semi-shade and F-series varieties.
The saying that clematis can tolerate heat and sunlight may be true in the north, but in the Jiangnan region, summer temperatures of 40 degrees are common. Under 40-degree full sunlight, my experience is that the leaves will definitely wither, so shading is needed in summer. Just block the intense sunlight in the afternoon. Varieties like Little Green Fantasy and Violet, which go dormant in summer, have a probability of dying in 40-degree sunlight even in a dormant state. It is recommended to place them in a shaded area on the north side. They won't photosynthesize without sunlight in summer, and can be taken out again after germination in September.
4. Wilt disease and pests
The main diseases and pests in spring and the plum rain season are wilt disease and red spider mites, which are considered plants with very few diseases and pests.
Wilt disease is actually unavoidable. Foreign literature also clearly states that it is a genetic defect, a probabilistic event that cannot be prevented. The use of fungicides does not show a statistically significant difference in disease incidence. The most effective measure is to reduce rain exposure. Therefore, there is no need to take special precautions, just reduce rain exposure for young seedlings. About half of the young seedlings will die after getting the disease, but most will still sprout from the underground nodes. The time is not fixed, possibly after half a year, so check the base stem, and if there is no rot, you can wait and see. For larger plants, if discovered in time, cutting the diseased branches at the root will not cause death. In the Jiangnan region, wilt disease mainly occurs after Qingming and during the plum rain season.
Very young seedlings with large pots or excessive watering can lead to root rot, which is not wilt disease but death due to poor breathing. My experience is to plant with toothpicks for three months, then pull out strong branches and change to a larger pot, and it will not rot.
If red spider mites occur, they can be controlled with Aikamate and Jinmiate. If it is persistent, you can alternate between them. If there are children at home, you can also use plant-based tea seed meal, which works well.
White muslin disease is said to occur occasionally, but I have not experienced it. If it occurs, the best approach is to destroy the plant along with the soil.
Root knot disease also occurs occasionally. I have never had it. According to the literature, clematis root knot disease is not very harmful, and the affected plants only show weakened growth and reduced resistance. The roots look scary when dug out, but the plant will not die and the flowers will bloom as usual. Of course, I have never had it, so this is just what the literature says.
5. Management in summer and after autumn
In summer, during the drought season of July and August, if sunshading netting is used, quite good growth can still be achieved. Without shading, there will be no growth. Whether growing or not, the flowers are sparse. In autumn, most large-flowered varieties have very little growth in the枝条 part, and the nodes become very short. I'm not sure if this is just my issue or a common phenomenon.
After autumn, cover the base with soil, and cover the branches, which is beneficial for the next year's basal suckers or adventitious roots on the nodes, preventing the base from freezing in winter. Doing this before summer can easily lead to branch withering, so it is best done in autumn.
The above is the specific content about how to cultivate clematis (Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai region). If it can be of help to you, remember to visit the website often!