Naked root rose planting
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Many times, rose enthusiasts who buy roses online receive bare-root rose seedlings, which can be a bit tricky for novice rose enthusiasts who are planting roses for the first time. Here are the planting methods for rose enthusiasts' bare-root roses.
1. Choose a pot or choose an in-ground planting location (it is recommended to pot the bare-root seedlings first, wait for the roots to grow well and the soil ball can be held before in-ground planting):
Potting: For 1.5-year-old grafted bare-root seedlings, a pot of 35cm x 35cm is suitable for the first year, depending on the size of the seedlings and their roots. The size of the pot should be large enough to allow the roots to fully stretch out.
If in-ground planting: Choose a location that ensures at least 6 hours of sunlight per day.
2. Prepare the medium or soil:
Roses prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil, with the most suitable pH being 6 to 6.5. Common planting materials include: garden soil, decomposed leaf soil, peat, fermented pine bark, perlite, etc. The medium or soil for planting roses should be breathable, water-retentive, fertilizer-retentive, and clean. The mixture ratio of garden soil and organic matter (such as decomposed leaf soil, peat, and fermented pine bark rich in organic matter) in the cultivation medium is generally 2:1. You can also directly use the cultivation soil or special medium sold by garden stores.
3. Soak and disinfect the seedlings according to the condition of the bare-root seedlings:
Bare-root seedlings may lose water after long-distance and long-time transportation. Before planting, check the condition of the seedlings. If the stems and branches show signs of dehydration or the roots are dry, they should be soaked in water for 1-2 hours before planting (the soaking time depends on the condition of the seedlings). Due to the wounds on the stems and roots of the bare-root seedlings, after soaking in water, they can be soaked in a solution of fungicides such as carbendazim or metalaxyl for 10-20 minutes, with the concentration following the instructions for pesticide use.
4. Pruning:
In order to promote the healthy growth of branches and formation of a good plant shape in the future, it is recommended to prune the branches to about half their original length based on the condition of the bare-root seedlings.
When pruning, the cutting tools should be sharp and clean, preferably using double-edged scissors. Before planting, prune the dried, weak, crossed, and injured branches based on the condition of the seedlings. When pruning, the cut should be about 1 centimeter above a strong bud, and the branch should be cut into a 45-degree oblique surface, with the angle direction parallel to the direction of the bud (see figure below). To prevent fungal infection, the cut can be treated with sulfur powder. If the roots are damaged, they should be pruned to clean and healthy living root parts. When pruning climbing roses, be careful not to prune too heavily, as many climbing roses are mutations of shrub roses, and if pruned too heavily, they may revert to the habits of shrub roses.
5. Planting:
To prevent waterlogging, you can first place a layer of large-particle pumice or pebble stones as a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot or planting hole, then fill in 1/4 to 1/3 depth of the medium or soil. Place the seedling in the center of the pot or planting hole, spread the roots in an umbrella shape to allow them to grow evenly in all directions, then add the medium or soil (whether the grafting joint should be buried in the medium or soil: in warm and humid climates, it is preferable to leave the grafting joint exposed to prevent fungal invasion. If planting in cold and dry areas, it should be buried in the medium or soil to keep warm). After planting, gently lift the seedling upwards and then gently press the medium to fill the gaps between the seedling roots. Since the roots of bare-root seedlings have wounds, it is not recommended to add organic fertilizer as a base fertilizer during planting, but slow-release fertilizer can be applied. If organic fertilizer is to be used as a base fertilizer, the amount should be controlled, and a layer of soil without fertilizer should be placed above the base fertilizer to prevent direct contact between the organic fertilizer and the roots.
The stem and grafting joint of the tree rose are the two weakest links, so throughout the growth process of the tree rose, a strong stake is needed for support, with the length the same as the distance from the roots to the grafting joint. The support should be set up at the time of planting. If in-ground planting, the stake should be placed on the windward side to prevent the plant from falling against the stake during windy conditions, causing damage to the bark of the stem and possibly leading to the entire crown breaking in strong winds. A rubber buffer should be used between the stem and the support, with one binding rope fixed at the top to support the upper branches and one fixed in the middle of the stem. When binding, do not tie too tightly, leaving some room for expansion.
6. Watering:
After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots, making sure the water completely wets the soil to allow the roots to absorb nutrients better.
7. Acclimatization:
Within two weeks after planting, it is important to keep the soil moist, otherwise it is easy to dry out. Also, do a good job of frost protection and do not leave it outdoors at night, as low temperatures and strong winds can cause the death of roses. The first two weeks after planting are the acclimatization period, during which the seedlings should not be exposed to direct sunlight and are best placed in a shaded, well-lit, and well-ventilated area. For in-ground seedlings, you can cover them with a shade net with a shading rate of 50% to prevent direct sunlight. In winter or early spring when the temperature is below 10°C, you can directly cover it with a black garbage bag, making sure to open some small holes on the side of the garbage bag for ventilation. After the acclimatization period, the pot seedlings can be gradually moved to a normal environment for maintenance, or the shading net covering the in-ground seedlings can be removed.
8. Disease and pest control:
It is best to spray fungicides on the seedlings after pruning. During regular maintenance, plan to spray pesticides. After planting bare-root seedlings, it is recommended to spray pesticides every 10 days or so to prevent black spot disease, stem rot, gray mold, and powdery mildew, such as benzyl thiabendazole, lime sulfur (used before leaves grow), sulfur powder, metalaxyl, and myclobutanil, etc.
The above content on the planting of bare-root roses is complete and I hope it can help you. Also, I hope everyone comes to see more green plant and flower experience and knowledge!