Potted roses fertilization summary and fertilization calendar by gardening friends
Sharing content about roses and potted roses, including a summary of potted roses fertilization by gardening friends and a fertilization calendar. What follows is a comprehensive introduction.
Fertilization of potted roses should be done based on the actual conditions such as the plant's growth, season, and stage of development, supplementing nutrients timely and appropriately. First, based on the plant's growth, if the leaves are thin, sparse, light green, or the auxiliary buds and new branches are weak, etc., these are signs of nutrient deficiency and fertilization should be done promptly. If the leaves are large and thick, dark green, and glossy, this indicates sufficient nutrients in the potting soil, so fertilization can be temporarily halted or reduced. Fertilization should follow the principles of frequent, small, and dilute applications.
For plants lacking nutrients, fertilization should prevent excessive, concentrated, or rushed applications. Otherwise, it not only wastes fertilizer but can also overstimulate the root hairs, causing root dehydration and injury. This may result in partial leaf and branch wilt, or even the death of the entire plant. Secondly, fertilization should be based on the season and stage of growth.
In March, before the roses start to sprout and unfold leaves, a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied to make the branches strong and leaves lush. From April to June and from September to October are the vigorous growth periods of roses, and fertilization should be applied once a week. In addition to applying cake fertilizer water, during the bud differentiation and bud formation stage, a phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied, such as using a 0.2% phosphorus acid monopotassium spray for foliar application and root-top dressing. Roses dislike heat, and during the high-temperature period of July and August (with temperatures above 30°C), they are close to a semi-dormant state and should not be fertilized or should be fertilized sparingly.
In the late autumn, fertilization should be stopped to prevent the stimulation of autumn shoots and winter frost damage. In winter, a concentrated cake fertilizer can be applied once, or slow-release organic fertilizers such as decomposed manure and compost can be used. No additional top dressing is needed during the entire winter dormant period. It should be noted that during the whole growing period of roses, fertilization is not suitable when the plants are sprouting and unfolding leaves, especially to prevent high-concentration, rapid-acting inorganic fertilizers. At this time, the roots are actively growing new ones, and if stimulated by concentrated fertilizers, the tender root cells may exude, causing the new roots to shrink. Leaves may become burnt, wrinkled, or rigid, severely affecting the normal development of the plant, or even causing the entire plant to wither.
Overall, there are five points to consider when fertilizing potted roses:
First, during the growing period, top dressing should be the main method, following the principle of frequent and thin applications. Thin means a 7:3 ratio of water to fertilizer, and frequent means once a week. Under no circumstances should undiluted fertilizer be poured directly into the pot.
Second, organic fertilizers should be used for roses and must be fully decomposed before use.
Third, fertilization should be done on sunny days, after loosening the soil, and when the potting soil is slightly dry in the evening for better absorption.
Fourth, the day after fertilization, water should be poured to prevent fertilizer damage.
Fifth, when fertilizing, care should be taken not to let the fertilizer solution touch the stems and leaves, and it should be poured along the edge of the pot.
Below is the calendar
January: Continue winter pruning, perform branch grafting, start greenhouse heating for flower stimulation, apply decomposed compost in ground planting, apply liquid fertilizer in potted plants, spray sulfur suspension agents for protective measures against overwintering diseases and pests.
February: Transplant, apply fertilizers to promote bud growth, start greenhouse heating for flower stimulation, and tie up climbing roses for induction.
March: Remove anti-freezing facilities, increase watering to promote bud formation, move overwintering roses outdoors, and use malathion or dichlorvos to control aphids.
April: Apply fertilizers to promote flowering, loosen soil and remove weeds, perform bud grafting; during rainy seasons, be cautious of powdery mildew and black spot diseases.
May: Strengthen flowering management, remove weeds, water, fertilize, and thin buds; apply inorganic quick-release fertilizers to ensure nutrient supply during flowering; continue bud grafting.
June: Prune after flowering, start pruning and tying climbing roses, control diseases and pests, loosen soil and remove weeds, apply decomposed organic fertilizers after flowering.
July: During the hot season, prevent diseases and pests, frequently loosen soil, remove weeds, apply fertilizers, and ensure sufficient watering.
August: Prepare for typhoons, support weak-stemmed plants to prevent breakage or uprooting due to typhoon damage.
September: Perform autumn pruning in the first ten days, induce climbing roses, apply fertilizers to promote bud differentiation, start autumn cutting.
October: In southern regions, strengthen autumn flower management with frequent and sufficient fertilization and watering; continue bud grafting and cutting propagation; in cold regions, take measures for overwintering, and move potted roses indoors.
November: Continue cutting propagation, perform dormant pruning, and apply anti-freezing treatments to roses planted in the open.
December: Apply slow-release base fertilizers, continue branch grafting, and manage greenhouse flowering.
This is the complete content of the potted roses fertilization summary and fertilization calendar by gardening friends, hoping it is helpful to green plant enthusiasts!