How to plant grapes in a pot
About the methods of planting grapes in a pot, the methods of planting grapes in a pot and the planting methods of potted grapes, please see the detailed introduction below.
1. The containers for potted grapes are usually made of clay, which has good drainage and aeration, and is relatively inexpensive.陶盆,瓷盆,塑料盆(buckets), wooden boxes, wooden barrels, and concrete troughs can also be used as containers. The shapes of the containers can be round, polygonal, rectangular, etc., with varying depths. For home potted plants, a diameter of 25~30cm and a depth of 15~30cm are sufficient.
2. The containers should have good breathability and drainage, good physical and chemical properties, rich in organic matter and nutrients, suitable pH level, and free of pests and diseases. The mixing ratio is 30%~50% garden soil, 20%~30% humus or organic fertilizer, and 20%~30% river sand. The prepared potting soil should be loose, fertile, and have good physical and chemical properties. The prepared potting soil can be disinfected with a 0.1% formalin solution, using 500ml of the solution per cubic meter of potting soil. If conditions allow, it can be sterilized with high-temperature steam.
3. Choose one or two-year-old rooted grafted cuttings or rooted cuttings, which can be planted from February to March every year (rooted cuttings from February to April to May to June).
4. The seedlings used for potted grapes can be cultivated through cutting, grafting, or layering, or by using 1 to 3-year-old grapevines, which are transplanted with a soil ball before germination. When planting, place a piece of tile in the center hole at the bottom of the pot, add a layer of small stones about 3cm thick, then add some potting soil to form a bun shape, spread the trimmed seedling roots on it, fill in the soil, press lightly, and when it is 3~5cm away from the pot opening, water to let the soil settle, then add soil and water again until water flows out of the bottom hole. After planting, place it in a warm place and cover with plastic film to retain moisture.
5. The room temperature should be above 10℃ for germination and growth, and the temperature should not be below 5℃. The flowering period requires 25~28℃, the fruit expansion period should maintain 28~32℃, and the potting soil moisture should be kept at around 70%.
6. Water thoroughly every 3 to 4 days during the early spring germination period; water thoroughly every 2 to 3 days from June to July; water 1 to 2 times during the dormant period in December. During the germination, flowering, and fruit-setting periods, apply sheep manure water once with each watering and spray the leaves with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer once. It is particularly necessary to spray zinc fertilizer before and after flowering. Apply the base fertilizer with the soil change, and apply liquid fertilizer during the growing period to prevent excessive concentration from burning the roots. For potted seedlings that have not yet borne fruit, start applying cake fertilizer water every 7 to 10 days from when the seedlings are 20cm tall (6 to 7 leaves) until the end of September. For those that have borne fruit, it is best to apply once every 5 days. Foliar spraying is effective and economical. The method is to spray 0.1%~0.3% urea 2 to 3 times during the early growing period, and from the fruit expansion period, spray 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution every 7 to 10 days, for a total of 3 to 4 times. The water temperature when watering should be close to the potting soil temperature. It is best to water before 10:00 AM and after 4:00 PM. Generally, water every 2 to 3 days in early spring, and as the temperature rises and evaporation increases, water every 1 to 2 days to keep the potting soil moist.
7. For grapes planted in the same year, leave 1 to 2 extension vines. For grapes planted for several years, leave 3 to 4 extension vines. For each vine, leave 1 fruiting branch every 3 to 4 years of bud eyes. For vines with fruit clusters, pinch the top 3 to 4 leaves above the fruit clusters, and for vines without fruit clusters, pinch the top after growing 3 to 4 leaves (to be used as fruiting branches for the next year). When the extension vines reach about 1m in length, pinch the top. For lateral branches, except those kept as extension vines, pinch after growing 1 to 2 leaves. If promoting a second fruiting, do not leave leaves and force the winter buds to germinate early.
8. In the spring, when the grape leaves and vines are stretching, insert three 1.3m long bamboo stakes or wooden stakes in a triangular shape into the pot, and tie the tops together securely. As the main and lateral vines of the grapes grow, bind them spirally or upwards along the triangular frame (known as the "Golden Dragon Coiling around the Jade Pillar" style). Make sure to maintain some distance between the vines to ensure each fruit cluster is exposed. On the balcony, you can use strings to guide them to the greenhouse roof or outdoors.
9. The soil replacement period can be at the end of autumn or before the spring germination. First, water thoroughly, then invert the pot and tap the rim to remove the entire root system and potting soil. Use bamboo strips to loosen part of the soil around the roots, trim some of the peripheral roots, and cut long roots by about half. Then replant them in new potting soil.
10. Adjust the fruit clusters in time before flowering, leaving 1 fruit cluster per fruiting branch and removing the rest. Pots with a diameter of 33 to 40cm can bear 1.5 to 2kg of fruit for 2 to 3 years, and after 4 years, a pot can bear 5 to 10kg of fruit, and larger pots can yield even more.
The above content on how to plant grapes in a pot and the methods of planting potted grapes, hope it helps you!