Introduction to the propagation methods of succulent plants
The website tells you about the related knowledge of succulent plants, introduces the propagation methods of succulent plants, and the editor will answer in detail for you next
A great pleasure for hobbyists to cultivate plants is to share new plants with like-minded friends after propagation, or as prizes for "lottery", or (C-S), which is one of the few ways for enthusiasts to earn a little without spending money. Propagating rare varieties and spreading them can reduce the risk of wild plants being stolen. Most succulent plants can be propagated by a variety of simple methods, including cutting, dividing, using lateral buds ( offsets), grafting, cross-pollination, and seeding. In the end, you will find that propagation is actually an easy thing, and you will soon feel that there is less and less space, materials, and time for cultivation.
Cutting
Cutting is a quick method to produce new plants that are genetically identical to the parent plant. Since no genetic variation occurs in the cultivation of new plants by cutting and dividing, the desired unique traits can be preserved, but if the parent plant is diseased, the cuttings will be naturally "sick seedlings". Self-pollinated varieties cannot produce seeds when two plants propagated from the same plant are cross-pollinated.
Many succulent plants can be propagated by cutting branches from the stems with a sharp knife. Any tools used to cut the plant body must be disinfected with alcohol in advance.
The best cutting position is under the node of the stem, or below the petiole or base of the new bud. When taking branches for cutting, be careful not to destroy the beauty of the parent plant's shape, and it's best to take branches more than one internode away. For the cutting sections of the吊灯花属 plants, retaining four leaves makes it easy to succeed, the two leaves on the lower node should be removed, but removing the buds at the leaf axils is not conducive to the growth of new plants. Plant the cuttings in sterile sandy medium, which can be pure sand, coarse sand, or vermiculite. Sometimes, the cuttings can be planted directly after cutting, but I prefer to let them sit for a day or two to heal the wound tissue and avoid fungal infections. It is helpful to dip the wound in root powder, especially when it also contains a fungicide.
Many succulent plants only need a leaf to get a new plant by cutting, sometimes it is the preferred method for propagating certain varieties, such as Adromischus (Crassulaceae), Crassulas Echeveria, many Kalanchoes, Sansevieria, and many epiphytic cacti. The鲨鱼掌属 plants can sometimes also be propagated by leaf insertion. The leaves are left to dry for a few days to seal the wound and form healing tissue, then placed in a propagation pot with only the base of the leaf touching the growing medium. I personally feel that this is better than inserting the lower part of the leaf into the medium, as it is less likely to rot. After a period of time, new roots can be observed, followed by new buds and leaves.
Cutting is best done at the beginning of the growing season, usually in spring, of course, except for winter plants. After cutting, place the cuttings in a well-ventilated, brightly lit area at room temperature of 20 degrees, but avoid direct sunlight. It's also a good idea to put the cuttings in a closed environment that maintains the right humidity until they root, a simple method is to put a large plastic bag over a large pot or cut the top half of a clean transparent plastic bottle and invert it over a pot of matching size. Water the cuttings sparingly until obvious growth can be observed, then increase the amount of watering.
Dividing
Many succulent plants are clustering or have thick tuberous roots, and they can be propagated by dividing. After removing the plant from the pot, try to remove as much potting soil as possible, and the specific method of dividing depends on the plant's growth type.
Many succulent plants (such as multi-headed varieties in Asclepiadaceae, Crassulaceae, and Cactaceae) can be divided when repotting, and well-grown plants with independent roots can be separated and potted individually. If you want to plant a specimen plant, you must be very careful when repotting, or consider what it might eventually look like in the pot when dividing.
When dividing plants with huge tuberous roots, first expose the shape of the tubers, then cut them in half or into several pieces with a sterilized sharp knife, with each piece having a growing point and strong fibrous roots. This type of root division is best done during the plant's dormant period and kept dry, otherwise, the plant will take longer to recover due to excessive loss of fluids. Sprinkle fungicide powder or sulfonamide powder on the cut surface, let it sit for a few days to close the wound and form healing tissue, then plant each piece in sandy medium, watering sparingly at first and only normal watering after seeing obvious growth signs.
Lateral Bud Propagation
Many cacti and succulent plants develop lateral buds or offsets at the base of the mature plant, which are usually easy to pick or cut off, and can be potted individually after drying and sitting for a few days. This is also beneficial for the parent plant, as these lateral buds or offsets consume a lot of nutrients from the parent plant, especially when trying to cultivate a strong specimen plant, it is better to remove the lateral buds in time.
Some plants will sprout suckers on the leaf edges or flower stems, which can also be picked and cultivated.
Grafting
Grafting is usually done to provide strong and vigorous roots for some weak, variegated, or abnormally shaped cultivated varieties. Many artificially cultivated varieties of cacti have bright colors, but their photosynthetic ability has become poor or even non-existent, so many commercial varieties in horticulture are propagated by grafting, sometimes it is their only "way out". The "surgery" of grafting has many techniques, depending on the specific situation, and the surgical site should be clean, and the tools should be disinfected with alcohol.
Rootstock: It must be "compatible" with the graft, thus not causing rejection, that is, they usually require the same genus or at least the same family. Suitable rootstock varieties include:
For grafting cacti — Echinopsis, Pereskiopsis, Trichocereus
For grafting Asclepiadaceae — Ceropegia (tuberous varieties such as woodii)
For grafting Portulacaceae — Portulacaria afra
Horizontal grafting is the most suitable method for beginners to try, suitable for species with thick succulent stems such as cacti. On the rootstock, cut a flat surface at an appropriate position above the base with a sterilized sharp knife. Flatten the bottom of the scion/bud, keeping it clean, then place it on the cut surface of the rootstock, making sure at least some vascular tissues of the scion and rootstock are in contact. Secure the graft with a rubber band and loop it over the pot bottom.
Oblique grafting is a variation of horizontal grafting, usually used when the cut surface of the scion or rootstock is too small, cutting both the scion and rootstock at the same angle to increase their contact area, allowing more vascular tissues to touch.
V-shaped grafting is another alternative method for small cut surfaces, cutting the scion into a wedge shape and the rootstock's incision into a V shape with the same angle, then inserting the scion into the rootstock and wrapping the sides of the rootstock's incision tightly to make the two cut surfaces adhere closely.
The above introduction to the propagation methods of succulent plants, I hope you will like it!