Discussion on Several Issues in the Management of Succulent Plant Seedlings
The editor will explain the introduction of succulent plants, the discussion on several issues in the management of succulent plant seedlings, and the following is a comprehensive introduction.
Although seeds are sown every year, starting from the beginning of growing succulent plants, I have sown seeds for 7 years. To be honest, in terms of seedling cultivation, there's really nothing to show for it. The main reasons are roughly two: subjectively, the scale is too large, wanting to grow too many things, and in the end achieving nothing; objectively, family conditions are limited, which finally leads to neglecting one thing for another.
So, since there's no achievement, there's nothing to talk about in terms of experience. Fortunately, failure is also a negative example, so I'll discuss a few issues that come to mind, and then compare and discuss them in depth one by one through practice.
I. Preventing Low-Temperature Dormancy in Seedlings
This issue has already been mentioned in the discussion on the significance of not letting succulent plant seedlings go dormant. Here, it is only listed as a key point that needs special attention in the seedling raising process, without repeating the same old things. Mainly, supplementary photos are provided for comparison. Of course, it does not rule out that the results are influenced by multiple factors, but at present, I personally believe that this is the core point to focus on during the seedling raising period.
II. Transplanting Seedlings
This issue will be discussed in depth this time.
It should be said that there has been a long-standing debate about the transplantation of succulent plants. I remember when I first came into contact with succulent plants, I saw the saying "move a little, grow a little," which was quite a surprise to me at the time. Generally, friends who grow flowers know the traditional saying, such as "trees die when moved" and "移植花有时，莫教花知" (transplant flowers at the right time, don't let the flowers know), etc. They all mean that flowers cannot be transplanted frequently and the timing must be mastered, with the best time being early spring when the plants are about to sprout. Of course, as I delve deeper, there is even the "cutting root planting method," which opened my eyes. Proper root pruning is necessary when transplanting plants, but with succulent plants, not only are all fibrous roots pruned, the main roots are also cut in half. Some varieties, such as the hawthorn, can even have their roots planed off when changing pots and then grow new roots, which is said to make the plant grow faster. Also, there is the issue of planting density after changing pots. Since the seedlings of succulent plants are very small, it is believed that they should not be planted too sparsely and should be planted at a higher density. These issues have all been encountered in my later planting, and they have also had a significant impact on the growth of seedlings. I will discuss them from three aspects:
First: Transplanting Treatment
This mainly includes three aspects: the treatment of seedling roots, the structure of planting materials, and post-transplanting care.
Firstly, the treatment of seedling roots. Generally, there is no need to consider root treatment during the first transplant (of course, this also involves the timing of the first transplant, discussed in the second point) because the roots are often not strong enough and do not need pruning, so direct transplanting is fine. However, for subsequent transplants (often half a year after germination, if the first transplant is also half a year later, it is discussed together), many seedlings have grown small radish roots. Do they need to be pruned? Should the fibrous roots or the small radishes be cut? What difference does pruning or not pruning make to later growth? Personally, I think it's only necessary to trim the long fibrous roots, and the so-called root pruning is just to make it easier to replant. I don't feel that root pruning has a significant effect on future growth, and it might even be harmful. I have tried cutting the main roots, and the recovery rate was not ideal. Of course, it might also be related to my later care level. I don't know if any friends have conducted strict control experiments.
Secondly, the structure of planting materials. The planting materials for seedlings only need to ensure good drainage. Don't make them too granular, otherwise, recovery will be slow, and growth will be significantly inhibited. If some succulent plant friends like to use peat and other materials in their planting mix, there is no such problem. If friends who like to use granular soil need to pay attention to this issue, as too large particles are not good for the recovery and growth of seedling roots.
Lastly, post-transplanting care. This includes issues such as when to water and what kind of environment to place the plants in. This is different from adult plants. Adult plants often need to be dried, planted in slightly moist soil, and watered after a few days, but seedlings can be planted directly and watered thoroughly with a spray bottle after planting, which is known as "root-setting water" in horticulture, and it helps with root recovery. If you are really worried about root rot, you can add a fungicide to the water. One thing that is certain about the post-transplanting care environment is to avoid direct sunlight. However, whether to place the plants in a small greenhouse or in a shaded and well-ventilated area is a matter of personal preference. I personally think that a naturally ventilated area is better, and then moved to the greenhouse after a week. I feel that placing the seedlings directly in a small greenhouse can easily cause rot, but the recovery rate is faster than that of non-steamed plants. It should be a matter of choosing between fish and bear's paws.
Second: Transplanting Frequency
It is said that plants prefer stillness over movement. Frequent transplanting can damage the roots and normal growth will be affected. However, it seems that more and more practical results show that移植ing appropriately does have its benefits. Of course, there are also studies showing that many European and American succulent plant enthusiasts rarely transplant seedlings and often wait until the seedlings are crowded before changing pots. So, the timing and frequency of transplanting is the most confusing aspect for me: if移植ed poorly, the more you transplant, the more they die; if you don't移植, they seem to grow slowly; and then there's the question of when to do the first transplant. I always do the first transplant the following year, and it seems to have some problems. When is the most appropriate time for the first transplant, is it to start moving right after germination or when the thorn seat starts to grow?
Third: Transplanting Density
This issue is greatly influenced by the initial contact with succulent plants. It has always been understood that since succulent plants are afraid of water, the pot should not be too large and the planting density should not be too sparse. Otherwise, the water content will be too high and difficult to care for. Perhaps such an experience introduction was originally reasonable and correct, but in my actual operations, it seems to have been overcorrected, always planting at a high density. Of course, there are also objective factors. If not planted densely, there's no place to plant. The reason for my few transplants is also this objective factor. It should be said that too high planting density also affects growth and there needs to be sufficient spacing. For seedlings, I estimate that a 2CM gap between seedlings is still necessary, and this needs further practice. Also, it is worth adding that the pot should be deeper, and the thickness of the planting material should be more than 5CM to facilitate root expansion.
III. Water and Fertilizer Management for Seedlings
In seedling management, heavy fertilization (of course, not too much, otherwise it's not worth it) is given. I used to think that cacti do not require much fertilizer, which seems to be a bit biased and too conservative. In the future, the issue of fertilization needs to be revised. Also, seedlings have a strong adaptability to water, so strengthening water and fertilizer management can accelerate the growth rate of seedlings.
IV. Light Management for Seedlings
I have always believed that light is very important for succulent plants. Only with sufficient light can succulent plants show their unique charm. So, what are the special requirements for light during the seedling stage? Direct sunlight, especially in summer, should be avoided, at least there should be an adequate adaptation process, otherwise, all your hard work may turn to foam overnight. Putting aside extreme cases like direct sunlight, under possible conditions, sufficient light is definitely beneficial for the healthy growth of seedlings, especially when water and fertilizer are sufficient, more light is needed to control the shape.
In summary, I believe that the most critical factor in seedling care is to prevent low-temperature dormancy, especially within the first year, it is best to maintain a continuous growth temperature. Secondly, it is to strengthen water and fertilizer management and appropriate transplanting. Light management mainly depends on personal style preferences - whether you prefer a fat and green look or a natural and healthy look.
Summary of the reasons for the poor condition of my seedlings:
First, I did not realize the harm caused by winter dormancy until last year.
Second, the issue of transplanting treatment was not fully mastered, either excessive root pruning or not transplanting for several years, and also high-density transplanting.
Third, water and fertilizer treatment was not in place. Except for the first point, the other factors may exist separately and may not significantly affect seedling growth, but when they are all together, the problems become more serious.
Photo descriptions:
Figure 1: A 10CM square pot, the small balls are from seeds sown in 2006, unable to ensure growth in winter, the gap is obvious. And they have not been transplanted since播种, and this year they were moved out and mixed with these two thorn balls.
Figure 2: A 10CM square pot, these four are a bit smaller, but I am very satisfied with this growth rate.
Figure 3 and 4: A 7CM square pot, these are the small three-thorn jade left, now about 2-3CM in size (the small seedlings planted in the gaps are from seeds sown in 2007).
The full content of the discussion on several issues in the management of succulent plant seedlings is provided above, hoping it will be helpful to green plant enthusiasts!