About the "potting" method and post-potting performance of succulents
Today, the editor will elaborate on the knowledge of succulents, including the "potting" method and post-potting performance of succulents. Here is a detailed introduction.
In the autumn season when succulents grow vigorously, many plant enthusiasts are ready to roll up their sleeves and get to work. Propagation, repotting, changing soil, transplanting seedlings, and buying new plants have all begun. previously, I often heard plant enthusiasts say that their newly purchased or just repotted succulents were in poor condition, either soft and collapsing or shedding leaves, and they were very worried. Let's clear up some misconceptions here. If you already know, there's no need to read further. Let's first talk about the general potting method for newly purchased succulents (personal methods are for reference only) and then discuss the plant's condition and performance after potting.
I. Potting Method for Succulents
1. Whether purchased from a flower market, greenhouse, or online, discard the original soil in the pot. (Online purchases usually do not carry potting soil)
2. Wash the roots of the plant to remove most of the soil attached to the roots. This is because there may be a lot of eggs and bacteria in it. Wash gently, as root damage is inevitable, but try to minimize it. You can shake the roots in a basin of water. It is recommended not to use a strong stream of water from the faucet, as this will break a lot of roots. Repeat this process several times until the white main roots are visible.
3. After washing the roots, if necessary, trim the roots. Cut off the sick and dead roots that have turned black or are left with empty shells. Also trim the long, tangled lateral roots to promote the growth of new fibrous roots. This will make the root system look evenly distributed and tidy. After root pruning, the new roots that regenerate will be strengthened, making the plant grow healthier. If you're unsure, you can skip this step, it's fine; just remove the dead and sick roots.
4. The roots will definitely be damaged at this point, so the next step is to soak them in a properly mixed fungicide solution for about an hour. You can use carbendazim, chlorothalonil, or thiophanate-methyl. Don't make the concentration too high; you can soak multiple plants in a small basin.
5. After the fungicide process, let the plant's roots dry naturally. Usually, you can pot the plant on the same day.
6. Prepare the potting mix and disinfect it in advance. For specific potting mix selection and disinfection methods, refer to my articles "Complete Guide to Succulent Potting Mix" and "Bug Control Team." I won't go into detail here. 7. Choose a pot and spray it with a fungicide. I personally recommend terracotta pots for succulents in the Crassula family. For the Haworthia genus, you can choose resin or plastic containers. If you're a "visual aesthetics first" person, you can choose a ceramic pot, but it must have drainage holes. Don't consider materials like iron or woven baskets, as they can rust or mold and drive you crazy. It may not be obvious at first, but you'll find out over time. It's like sending your succulents into the jaws of death. Don't be whimsical and then end up with a bitter taste in your mouth!
8. Put the disinfected potting mix into the pot, following the principle of large particles at the bottom and small particles on top. The particle size of the potting mix decreases from bottom to top, which is good for drainage.
9. Plant the succulent and cover the roots completely with soil. Press the soil gently with your fingers, then spray a thin layer of fungicide on the soil surface to make it slightly moist. A little moisture is enough to facilitate the germination of new roots. The mantra is "dry potting in moist soil," not "dry potting in wet soil!" There is a difference between the two.
10. After potting, place the plant in a bright area with scattered light, avoiding direct sunlight. Maintain ventilation and keep it cool, and do not water. This is the acclimatization stage. 11. After a week, resume watering and full sunlight, and care for the plant normally. During the acclimatization period, if the potting mix is too dry, you can spray a thin layer of water mist or fungicide on the soil surface each day to increase humidity, but be careful not to overdo it! After the acclimatization period, be sure to water the plant decisively, or the plant will continue to wilt, become soft, shed leaves, and may even increase the mortality rate.
Actually, these are the most conservative methods. Many succulent varieties are more resilient than you can imagine. You will find that these methods are too cumbersome after keeping them for a long time. Only more delicate varieties need such a complex process. Haha, but if you're new to succulents and haven't fully grasped their habits, it's still better to follow the conservative methods. If you're an experienced grower, just continue as usual. I'll just nag one last time: this potting method is only for the growing season, not for the dormant period... Hmph, if you want to force it, go ahead, but be prepared to take responsibility for the consequences of your actions...
II. Post-Potting Performance
Usually, after a succulent is potted, you'll find that it either looks limp or keeps shedding leaves. Many plant enthusiasts get worried and look for solutions everywhere. At this point, you need to calm down and analyze the situation. (Actually, most of the time, it's the situation 2, worrying for no reason.)
Situation 1: The plant was not potted according to the method I described above, which may have caused bacterial infection in the roots or the plant itself after potting. Or the plant may have had diseases or injuries when purchased, or the potting soil may not have been disinfected thoroughly. Exclude damage and pests, and it's a bacterial infection. High humidity in the growing medium is the most common factor causing bacterial infections, so don't water excessively during the acclimatization period. The roots simply don't have the ability to absorb nutrients and water at this point, and too much moisture in the medium will only cause bacteria to multiply, increasing the chance of root rot.
Situation 2: There's nothing to worry about, as this is a normal phenomenon.
When a plant is just potted, the root system is inevitably damaged, so acclimatization is actually about recovering the roots. When the roots are not fully recovered and cannot absorb nutrients and water normally, the plant will rely on the nutrients stored in the outer old leaves to maintain its normal physiological functions and the growth of new tissues. Therefore, the plant may appear wilted, and the outer old leaves will gradually wither and fall off. At this point, you don't need to worry about any health issues with the plant. Once the roots recover, the old leaves will stop shrinking and falling off, and the growth point of the plant will start to show activity and begin growing. However, the shedding of old leaves is something that healthy plants will all experience, but plants with unhealed roots will show rapid shedding of old leaves. The old leaves are sacrificing themselves to ensure the overall health of the plant.
You can determine if the roots have recovered by gently pulling the stem of the plant and feeling if it has a slight "grabbing force." This can indicate whether the roots have taken hold. But don't pull too hard and uproot the plant.
The old leaves that have exhausted their nutrients and withered are basically like a piece of parchment. Once the old leaves become soft and dry, you don't need to remove them提前. They will naturally fall off when all the nutrients are completely consumed. If you remove them提前 before they have completely consumed their nutrients, it will accelerate the shedding of another leaf. They all fall off in order.
After the acclimatization period, the plant should be watered normally. Don't be afraid to water the plant anymore, or the roots, even if they have recovered, won't be able to absorb and provide enough nutrients and water for the plant. The plant will continue to be wilted, soft, and shedding leaves, and will never achieve the best ornamental effect.
The above content about the "potting" method and post-potting performance of succulents, have green plant enthusiasts understood?