Discussion on the Management Experience of Ball Plant Seedlings
This article introduces you to the experience of dealing with succulent plants, discussing the management of ball plant seedlings, followed by sharing detailed content.
Some gardening friends have asked me about the management of ball plant seedlings, especially新手 friends, because many people are seeding for the first time and have no experience in managing young seedlings. Therefore, I have written down a bit of my own experience for everyone to share. The main management tasks in the first few months of ball plant seedlings are temperature, humidity, light, pest and disease control, and transplantation.
1. Temperature
Firstly, let's talk about germination temperature. I have sown seeds from March to December, and personally feel that sowing in May is more suitable, followed by June, because the temperature in these two months can be maintained between 20-35 degrees Celsius. If sowing in March to April, there is often weak cold air coming south, and seeds that have just germinated are most afraid of encountering low temperatures halfway, which can easily lead to low germination rates. I suggest that friends sowing at this time should have temperature control equipment to prevent occasional low temperatures from causing trouble. From July to August, the temperature is too high, and the seedlings can easily rot. Sowing in autumn is also possible, but there is too little time before winter, and the seedlings are too small to survive the winter, unless you have heating equipment.
Secondly, let's talk about growth temperature. In May and June, there is basically no weak cold air, so there is no need to worry about low temperatures. Moreover, the temperature is not only suitable for germination but also for the growth of young seedlings, allowing them to be in a better state before the start of summer. Therefore, in the first few months, try to maintain an appropriate temperature difference. My usual approach is to place the seedling trays on the north-facing balcony. Although there is no direct sunlight during the day, the temperature outside can generally reach over 30 degrees Celsius when the sun is out. Plus, the outdoor temperature drops significantly at night, usually around 20 degrees Celsius, creating a temperature difference that is very beneficial for the growth of the seedlings. However, from July to August, I dare not place them outside because of occasional thunderstorms and strong winds, which can easily lead to total loss. Moreover, the temperature can reach over 40 degrees Celsius at noon on sunny summer days, and the seedlings are kept in a stuffy environment, so they can easily be steamed. Therefore, in July and August, I can only place the seedling trays indoors in a bright area with scattered light, which is safer although the growth is not as fast as in May and June.
2. Humidity
Firstly, let's talk about air humidity. During the period from sowing to germination, seeds need relatively high humidity, so the seedling trays should be kept covered to increase air humidity, which is very beneficial for improving germination rates. After all the seeds have germinated, I suggest ventilating for a short period each day, preferably in the morning and evening, for about 10 minutes. If using my mineral water sowing method, just remove the lid of the mineral water bottle.
Secondly, let's talk about soil humidity. I don't support keeping the seedling trays in a water tray after sowing, as I think the humidity of the soil is too high, which can be too moist and easily cause the young seedlings to rot. I usually soak the soil surface appropriately at intervals. However, the seedlings are not drought-tolerant within a few months, so the pot soil should not turn white.
3. Light
Overall, light should be gentle. After sowing, I place the seedlings on the inside of the balcony, allowing only scattered light. As the seedlings grow, the trays can be slowly moved from the inside to the outside of the balcony. After a month, I place them outside the north-facing balcony, where they can get some weak direct sunlight in the morning and evening, with a layer of sun-shading board, making the light not too strong. If the light is too strong, the seedling epidermis will turn red, easily causing growth stagnation, but too weak light will make the seedlings grow尖头. Moreover, moss can grow in the trays, which I find very troublesome. When moss grows, the seedlings will grow slower, and it is difficult to remove the moss completely. My usual approach is to remove it with small tweezers and then晒 a little sun, but be careful not to晒 for too long or with too strong light, preferably in the morning and evening. Seedlings within a few months should not be exposed to direct sunlight between 9-17 in summer.
4. Pest and Disease Control
To be honest, I have never encountered any real pests or diseases in the years I have been sowing seedlings, so I don't have much experience in dealing with them. However, I think the focus should be on prevention. From the beginning of sowing preparation, I disinfect the soil with a microwave oven for 5 minutes (I should also mention that when disinfecting with a microwave oven, you must add some water to the soil. So far, I have heard from several gardening friends who have experienced fires during microwave disinfection because they forgot to add water to the soil. So please remember to add water to make the soil moist before microwave disinfection). This can basically kill the insects and pathogens in the soil. Even so, there are always some white mycelium on the seeds in the first few days after sowing, which I usually spray with thiophanate-methyl to handle. As for pests, I haven't encountered any, but I think a combination of microwave and insecticides should be able to deal with them.
I believe that prevention should always be the priority with pests and diseases, because once they appear, even if treatable, there will be significant losses.
5. Transplanting
I usually transplant in early September, and the saying "Move once, grow once" seems to be applicable to young seedlings. The soil used for transplanting should also be disinfected with a microwave oven. The soil should be moist but not too wet after transplanting, and the trays should be watered again after a day. When transplanting, the roots should be cut back heavily, especially for seedlings sown in sand and vermiculite, as most of the roots can be cut off to allow the seedlings to grow more fibrous roots and absorb moisture and nutrients to the maximum extent. It's also best to plant densely, with the spacing between seedlings gradually increasing each time, as planting too sparse to reduce the number of transplants will not help them grow larger.
The above () provides a detailed introduction to the management experience of ball plant seedlings, hoping to bring some knowledge of flowers to flower enthusiasts.