What to do about the stretching of Yulu
Today, I will introduce to everyone the introduction of the succulent plant Yulu. What to do about the stretching of Yulu? Let's continue with the introduction by the editor.
Yulu, this thing, sometimes it really makes people love and hate it. We love it for its crystal clarity and hate it for its inability to become steel (Yulu stretching). So, what should we do about the stretching of Yulu? Many people are at a loss when it comes to Yulu stretching, and asking around yields all sorts of vague and varied responses. Stretching also depends on the degree of stretching, and choosing a practical method to deal with it can achieve satisfactory results.
1. Slight stretching, there is a gap between the leaves, but overall, it is relatively symmetrical without uneven leaf lengths.
(The method to deal with it is to control water, meaning to reduce frequency rather than quantity. More sun, meaning to increase duration rather than intensity. Of course, light must be within a reasonable range, not just increasing duration under weak light, as that would be useless)
2. Moderate stretching, with a larger gap between the leaves, the leaves are elongated and of uneven lengths, and the window packages are uneven, usually fat on the outside and thin on the inside.
(In addition to the above-mentioned water control + sun, many people choose to cut the top, removing the outer part of the stretching leaves from the cut-off head. Although it is a good method, the plant is severely damaged, and the head cap needs to regenerate roots, which takes a very long time. Although you can get cuttings and leaf cuttings, the time spent is not to be mentioned. If you want to grow the seedlings to maturity, that will be a task for two years later.)
3. Stretching so much that even its mother wouldn't recognize it, the column is loose, the leaf spacing is large, the leaves are thin and long, and even flipped outward.
(Plants in this condition are severely lacking in light and very difficult to recover in a short time. Due to severe stretching, the stem elongates, and even after cutting the top and inserting leaves, it may not be easy to root because the stem is very tender and in a sub-healthy state. If it's not a good variety, then... give up treatment? This third situation is too extreme to consider here, and how to handle it is up to everyone to decide.
For the first and second situations, you can choose to trim the leaves directly, using an example of an Emperor Yulu.
Emperor Yulu has relatively long leaves (Z-D) series, and in the seedling and medium stages, due to the insufficient number of leaves, the spacing is large, which can be mistaken for stretching. Once mature, the full (Z-D) head will be tightly packed with uniform leaf lengths, making it very beautiful. But this plant is indeed stretched, and not wanting to cut the top and regenerate roots, I chose to trim the leaves directly for shaping. This way, it recovers faster and looks more comfortable.
First, dig up the plant and check the roots. This is also a good opportunity to adjust the soil mix. Use a sharp utility knife to start from the lowest leaves.
Make a cut close to the stem at the base of the leaf, without applying too much force to break the leaf epidermis. Then grip the bottom of the leaf and pull it from left to right, trying to ensure that the wound area of the fallen leaf is parallel to the stem, meaning that the wound area of the fallen leaf has a small part of the stem tissue, and it is best not to break the leaf in the middle, although it is unavoidable. This is to ensure a better germination rate when the leaf is inserted.
Trim the leaves one by one, layer by layer, removing the outer leaves with large spacing. Keep the compact and symmetrical layer. After removing the leaves, apply a fungicide such as Daktarin to the stem wound to prevent bacterial invasion and infection. Let it dry for a few hours or overnight, and even without Daktarin, it should be fine as long as it is well-dried. This method does carry risks, so beginners should be cautious.
Then, spray the prepared planting material with water to make it slightly moist before planting. Remember not to water.
Since most of the planting material is mixed with peat soil or decomposed leaf soil, which contain various bacteria, try not to cover the wound of the stem that has had leaves removed with soil (if the wound is well-dried, it's fine, but the layer of soil should be dry).
Use clean and dried river sand, with larger particles (3mm-5mm) to cover the surface, separating the leaf base from the planting material. Place it in a diffused light area for care and water normally after 2 weeks.
The advantage of river sand is that it does not retain water and has good water conductivity. Using it to separate the planting material from the leaves effectively prevents leaf rot caused by moist soil. It can also block the growth of fungi and spore plants and prevent pests from laying eggs in the soil. Foreigners prefer using gravel as mulch. The only downside is that it's impossible to judge the watering time by observing the color of the surface soil.
However, this can be solved by the weight in dry and wet conditions. Enjoy the fun of leaf insertion with the final leaves obtained.
The above sharing on what to do about the stretching of Yulu is a specific introduction, hoping to bring some floral knowledge to flower enthusiasts.