How to cultivate Cattleya orchid
If you want to learn about the small knowledge of the Cattleya orchid, a succulent plant, and how to cultivate it, the following article will provide you with detailed answers.
Cattleya orchid is a multi-year epiphytic succulent plant, native to the tropical rainforests at medium altitudes in the Mexico region. It is commonly found growing on the branches of larger trees. The local annual minimum temperature is usually around 5 degrees Celsius. Due to its long-term growth in the warm and humid environment of tropical rainforests, it does not require much sunlight, prefers warm and humid conditions, fertile and loose soil with good drainage, and rich in humus acidic leaf mold soil.
In winter, it requires a growth environment of 10-15 degrees Celsius, which is conducive to bud formation. However, if the temperature is too high in the winter cultivation environment, its stems are prone to elongation. Spring is the period for the orchid to bloom and new stem nodes to sprout, with a temperature of 15-20 degrees Celsius being ideal. If the temperature of the cultivation environment is too low at this time, it will affect the formation of buds and the normal development of new stem buds; during the flowering period, high humidity is required in the air, and watering is not needed much, just keeping it slightly moist.
After flowering, there is a dormancy period, and the stem nodes will show signs of shrinkage and drying. At this time, watering should be reduced, and misting should be increased to provide higher humidity. Be careful not to water excessively repeatedly, as it can easily lead to root rot. In winter, the cultivation environment should be kept dry, and watering should be controlled while keeping the leaves clean.
As Cattleya orchid is an epiphytic plant in the middle and lower layers of the rainforest, it does not require much light, and semi-shade is sufficient. During high summer temperatures, pot cultivation should avoid strong sunlight and heavy rain, as otherwise, the stem nodes can easily get sunburned and cause leaf and root rot, affecting normal growth and观赏.
There are about one to two thousand varieties of Cattleya orchids in terms of color, with several hundred common ones. The flowers vary in size, with diameters ranging from 5 to 30 centimeters depending on the variety. The stem node shapes also differ, with flower colors mainly in red, pink, white, yellow, and other mixed colors. The general flowering period is 2-4 days, and it is best to avoid sun exposure during the flowering period to reduce evaporation.
Potted Cattleya orchids need to be repotted every two years, either in the spring or autumn. During repotting, remove some of the old soil and prune the roots (stop watering a few days before repotting), and add loose and breathable leaf mold soil mixed with coarse sand. Water thoroughly two days after potting and keep it in the shade for a week before gradually exposing it to light.
Cattleya orchids grow vigorously in summer and autumn. At this time, more nitrogenous fertilizer should be applied to promote the growth and development of stem nodes. The earlier sprouting stem buds usually have better growth and can reach the required height for pot cultivation (30-50 centimeters is considered suitable) in one season. Excess parts should be cut off. The method is to cut off 1-2 millimeters from the top growth point of the stem using a blade, so that the wound is not obvious after healing. Later sprouting ones are generally not retained to prevent the formation of gourd-shaped stem nodes that affect the ornamental effect. New stem buds that have not differentiated into a flat or triangular stem node by 10 centimeters should be cut off (conical leaves), as they have less nutrient storage, are not conducive to bud formation, and cannot showcase the characteristics of Cattleya orchids well.
As autumn cools down, it is the second period of vigorous growth in a year. New leaves gradually mature and become thick and sturdy. At this time, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied every two weeks, the duration of sunlight exposure should be increased, and the plant's nutrient storage should be improved to store enough nutrients for bud formation. From October to November, as the weather gets colder (depending on local temperatures), it is necessary to move the plants indoors to prevent frost. They can be placed in a sunny area indoors.
In winter, the temperature should be maintained at around 10-15 degrees Celsius. Fertilizer should be reduced, watering should be controlled, and the potting soil should be kept slightly dry. Excessive moisture can cause insufficient oxygen absorption by the roots, leading to leaf shriveling or root rot. From mid-March to early April, gradually open windows for ventilation until there is no more frost, then move the plants outdoors for care (usually around Labor Day). In the early stage of bud formation, most of the leaves that sprout are leaf buds (which can be distinguished when they grow to 1 centimeter). These stem buds should be pinched off early to prevent nutrient consumption, and the later sprouting ones are the flower buds, which can be distinguished by the color depth of the leaf vein patterns.
Cattleya orchids consume a lot of nutrients, especially large-flowered varieties. It is sufficient to keep one or two flower buds per stem node, removing the rest. Smaller Cattleya orchids can retain more flower buds but not too many to avoid excessive nutrient consumption, which is not conducive to plant recovery after flowering. For the old stem nodes that have bloomed, growth hormones accumulate at the top few bud eyes and usually only new leaves will sprout. Growing new leaves on old leaves will cause the plant to become too tall, affecting the ornamental effect and making care more difficult. At this time, some of the older leaves can be cut from the base to gradually update the leaves, forcing new leaves to sprout from the base more. In fact, many leaves have already started to sprout from the base during the budding period, which is a characteristic of Cattleya orchids self-renewal.
The old leaves that are pruned can be used for cutting or grafting. For cutting: cut into segments about 10 centimeters long, let them dry for three to five days in a ventilated place, then insert them into coarse sand loam soil rich in humus or a mixture of peat, perlite, and finely crushed bark, coarse sand, etc. The cutting depth should be half to one-third of the cutting. Regular misting and keeping the potting soil slightly moist is best, and roots can sprout in about a month, with the possibility of blooming the following year. For grafting: I use large cactus as the rootstock with good results (triangle, grass ball, leaf xian, etc., can also be used as rootstocks). The method is to use mature stem nodes as scions in spring and autumn, with scions generally about 10 centimeters long, grafted onto strong rootstocks. The plants can bloom normally the following spring (these flowers are from the bud eyes of the old stem nodes, as sufficient nutrients after grafting allow them to form buds).
There is also another cutting method called the inverted cutting method: cut the Cattleya about 10 centimeters long, let the wound dry for two to three days, then invert and plant it in the potting soil, inserting two-thirds of the stem node. It is best to use the top of the stem node for inverted planting. This way, you can plant it directly without drying, and there is no need to worry about the stem node rotting due to wound infection. The advantage is that the stem node nutrients are less likely to be lost, basically eliminating the phenomenon of leaf shriveling.
The common diseases of Cattleya orchids are stem rot, root rot, scale insects, red spiders, aphids, etc. According to my years of experience, reducing watering during dormancy and avoiding rain during the growing period can reduce the incidence of rotting diseases. Good ventilation and avoiding direct sunlight can prevent sunburn. It is advisable to spray a fungicide such as carbendazim once every half month during the dormant period and in high humidity periods in summer for prevention. Rotting wounds can be treated with sulfur powder, wood ash, garlic juice, etc. Common pests can be effectively controlled with 40% omethoate, aphid灵, dichlorvos, and abamectin.
The above information () introduces the full content of how to cultivate Cattleya orchids. I hope it is helpful to green plant enthusiasts!