Care Tips for Succulents in Spring
The article introduces contents about succulents, including the care tips for succulents in spring. Here is the detailed introduction.
Recently, I often browse forums and find that many succulents of flower friends have been sunburned by the spring sun. Today it is cloudy, so I have specially organized the care tips for succulents in spring over the years.
Let's first talk about watering succulents in early spring. After the long winter, almost all succulents are relatively weak. When spring returns and the spring rain continues, flower friends can't help but water the succulents that have been thirsty for a winter. Although I also give a little water in winter, after all, that bit of water is to maintain the plant from drying out and root damage due to excessive water deficiency in winter. Watering at this time becomes particularly important because the temperature in spring is variable and unstable. Watering should use some fungicides like Diflufenican to effectively prevent some unhealthy plants from winter from being infected with bacteria due to watering, leading to root rot.
My general practice is to mix water with Diflufenican and water a little around the pot, depending on the size of the pot, so that the water can slowly seep into the roots. If you water heavily or immerse the pot at this time, it is very easy to cause some varieties to shed leaves or rot from the roots to the leaf heart. When you find it, the stem of the plant has turned completely black, and at this point, it is really beyond help, as if it has rotted overnight.
The reason is actually very simple. The entire plant is weak due to the lack of water in the whole winter. The plant's own water will also be supplied by the leaves. At this time, heavy watering is like a person who has been thirsty for a long time suddenly seeing a sweet spring and drinking to their heart's content. This is very dangerous and can endanger life. Even humans can't tolerate it, let alone plants. Therefore, watering in early spring should still follow a gradual increase.
Although I say gradual increase, many flower friends still don't understand what it means. Let me give a simple example. In early spring, I generally look at the size of the pot. When watering for the first time, I put a little bit of water on the edge of the pot, usually at one corner of the pot, so that no water flows out from the bottom of the pot. If the pot is too small, watering basically allows half of the soil on top of the corner to have water. After watering, ventilate and wait for the soil to dry naturally. During this time, you can extend the second watering period because the first watering has slightly moistened the weak roots. New roots will gradually emerge after the first watering. Because new roots have emerged, although there is no water in the soil, their roots will tightly grasp any substances that can absorb water. When the second watering has more water than the first, the new roots are more likely to absorb water. After the soil dries again, you can water thoroughly. I generally do not use the method of immersing the pot, as it is difficult to control and is a lot of work when there are many plants. Watering is better to control. After three waterings, the plant can enter the normal growth watering period.
I've briefly mentioned watering. Next is the sunlight in early spring. Even though watering is mastered, if you are not paying attention to weather changes and give direct sunlight without restriction, it is also very easy to sunburn or even sunburn the plants to death. Many flower friends will ask, why do plants die in spring when the sun is not as strong as in summer? The reason is actually very simple. After a long winter, plants are very weak, and spring is a time of very large seasonal temperature changes. When plants have gradually adapted to the cold winter, spring suddenly arrives. At this time, some flower friends will give the first watering of the season to the plants, but watering does not mean that the plants have started to grow. All aspects are relatively weak. Sudden full sunlight will make the plants unable to cope and unable to resist the invasion of ultraviolet rays. In fact, we humans can feel this very easily.
In early spring, when we are still wearing a lot of clothes and the weather suddenly becomes clear and comfortable, ultraviolet rays also make us warm. If we take off our thick winter coats at this time, we are also very likely to catch a cold. In fact, the principle is the same. Both humans and plants need a process of adaptation to gradually accept the sudden sunlight in early spring. It is best to avoid long-term direct sunlight and gradually expose the plants to the sun. When I take down the insulation film in the sunroom in early spring, I immediately pull up the sunshade net. When the sun is very strong and people feel hot and want to take off their winter coats, I pull up the sunshade net. My sunshade net is 65% shade. It is best to use 50% or less shading in spring. If the sun does not make people very hot, the plants can bask in the sun. Allowing the plants to gradually accept sunlight is necessary. Do not expose them directly to the sun from indoors, otherwise years of effort will be lost due to不小心 sunburning. Sun shading in early spring is very necessary. Therefore, flower friends should also pay attention to sun shading while paying attention to watering. Disasters cannot be predicted, and we can only take precautions.
I've briefly discussed watering and sunlight for succulents in spring. I believe that beginners should have a simple concept. I also hope that the majority of flower friends can take good care of their beloved plants and cultivate beautiful succulents in the season of revival. Different plant families have some differences in cultivation. Flower friends should combine their own environment to take care of their plants. I can only provide a reference. Below are the plants in my sunroom in early spring. Now, I will put up the sunshade net when the sun is out.
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