Cultivation Methods for Potted Chrysanthemums
An article about green plant knowledge, introducing you to the related content of chrysanthemums, a member of the Asteraceae family, specifically the cultivation methods for potted chrysanthemums, as follows:
The cultivation methods for potted chrysanthemums begin with cutting. If you buy a potted plant directly, it is easy to care for, just place it in a well-lit area, avoiding drought or flooding. The key is how to continue the next year. The simplest method is to cut in June, after which the plant can be transplanted into a pot, with one or three, or more than three plants per pot. Spray Paclobutrazol (also known as plant growth regulator), apply compound fertilizer, and when the flower buds are the size of soybeans, keep the top one and stabilize the plant to prevent it from leaning. If there are aphids, just spray some aphid control medicine.
1. Talking about cutting, it can be done from May to July. Cut a 12 cm long branch, leaving four leaves, remove the lower three leaves, and plant it in loose soil. For the top branch, just remove the lower leaves. Remember, after cutting, water thoroughly and place it in a shaded area. Generally, it takes 7-15 days to survive. If you need to transplant, put the top surviving seedlings in one pot and the lower surviving branches in another pot, as their growth rates differ.
2. Fertilizing depends on the growth situation. If the chrysanthemum leaves turn yellow and are not robust, you can place a little compound fertilizer on the pot surface and water it to dissolve. It will show effects in three days. Chrysanthemums must not lack fertilizer before they form flower buds.
3. Watering. In dry seasons, water once a day.
4. Controlling height. Generally, seedlings cut in July can be controlled without spraying Paclobutrazol. I didn't spray mine and it didn't grow very tall. Seedlings cut in May can be sprayed, or it can be done according to the growth of the chrysanthemum. When spraying, don't make the concentration too high, you can spray once or several times. High concentrations can cause the flower heads to clump together.
5. Stabilizing and thinning. When chrysanthemums begin to bud around Mid-Autumn Festival, use a small stick to stabilize the plant. After inserting the stick into the pot, the top should not be higher than the flower bud. For large chrysanthemums, leave one flower bud at the top of each stem, while small chrysanthemums do not need thinning. After thinning, chrysanthemums should not lack fertilizer.
6. Pest control. After chrysanthemums form flower buds, they are prone to aphids. Spray Pyrethrin once to solve the problem. Stop fertilizing as the chrysanthemums gradually open.
Secondly, not cutting or not using plant growth regulators
This method is suitable for ground planting with full sunlight.
1. Divide in March, plant, and space the plants further apart.
2. When the chrysanthemums grow taller, stabilize them.
3. When the chrysanthemums grow taller and branch out, stabilize again. Use small bamboo stakes with forks, as the branches should be stabilized on the forks of the stakes.
4. Repeat the stabilization process.
5. Around Mid-Autumn Festival, when the chrysanthemums form buds the size of soybeans, leave one flower bud at the top of each branch. If the seedlings are strong, one chrysanthemum can have more than ten branches.
6. Remember, leave one flower bud on each branch.
7. Remember to water every day, and if it rains during the flowering season, cover to keep dry.
8. When it frosts, cover to prevent frost. This will give you a long period of enjoyment, over a month!
If you have a garden with full sunlight, use the second method. When flowering, one plant can have 10-20 flowers, each as big as a small plate, comparable to a tree full of peonies. The visual impact is extraordinary.
The detailed content about the cultivation methods for potted chrysanthemums (starting from cutting) has been described above, hoping it can be of help to you!