How to raise Cymbidium after germination
A very detailed introduction is about how to raise Cymbidium after germination and teach you to correctly maintain the flowers and plants of Cymbidium. Next, I will let you understand it together.
Cymbidium, also known as Himbilis and Cicada, are some of the large flower species with strong attachment in the genus Cymbidium originating in India, Myanmar, Thailand, Vietnam and southern China and other regions, and artificial hybrids obtained mainly using these original species as parents. A general term for the varieties of Cymbidium cultivated through artificial hybridization with beautiful color and large flowers. There are about 48 species of Cymbidium, and nearly 20 species of native species are currently used as hybrid parents, mainly epiphytes with large flowers and a small number of terrestrial species.
Cymbidium is a plant of the genus Cymbidium. Its petals are very large, with a diameter of 6 to 10 centimeters, hence its name. The inflorescences are long, the number of small flowers is more than 10, the flowers are large, and the colors are white, yellow, green, purplish red or with purple-brown markings. Green varieties are mostly fragrant. The sepals are petal-shaped, the inner rings are petals, and the fruit of Cymbidium is a capsule. Its shape and size often vary greatly depending on the parents or original species, with thousands of varieties.
The tissue culture seedlings of Cymbidium hybridum take 2.5 to 3 years of vegetative growth before they can enter reproductive growth, undergo flower bud differentiation and development, and then blossom. The sign of entering the reproductive growth stage is the differentiation of flower buds. The formation of flower buds is related to the number of leaves and the fullness of pseudobulbs. A sufficient number of basically completed unfolded and elongated leaves and plump pseudobulbs are necessary conditions for the formation of flower buds of Cymbidium hybridum. After a sufficient vegetative growth stage, Cymbidium hybridum enters the reproductive growth stage. The flower bud of Cymbidium hybridum develops from lateral buds, and the lateral buds that differentiate into flower buds develop and begin to grow scaas. Most flower buds of Cymbidium are formed on false bulbs formed by annual new buds. These new buds are generally left on old false bulbs between October and November of the previous year. Flower buds are generally inserted at the base 2 - 4 nodes of the pseudobulb, and 1 - 2 flower buds are formed on each pseudobulb.
The formation of flower buds of Cymbidium is not directly related to the length of day and temperature. These two factors indirectly affect the formation of flower buds by affecting the growth of new buds. However, after flower buds are formed, temperature has a significant impact on the development and elongation of flower buds. If the temperature is too high or low, the development and further elongation of flower buds will be inhibited. Cymbidium cultivated in China is mainly supplied to markets on New Year's Day and Spring Festival. Its flower buds are generally completed around June, and the flower buds develop just in the hot summer. Therefore, the main factor affecting the flower bud development of cymbidium in most areas of China is the high temperature in summer.
How to raise Cymbidium after germination
Cymbidium is native to tropical and subtropical plateaus in Asia. It prefers warm winter and cool summer. The suitable temperature for growth is 10 - 25℃. It should be protected in a low-temperature greenhouse in winter. It grows well at night when the temperature is around 10℃. The flower stems are normally elongated and most bloom from February to March. When the night temperature is higher than 20℃, the flower buds will wither or affect flowering. When the temperature is below 5℃, the leaves are slightly yellow, the flowering period is delayed, and the flower stems are shorter. Maintain the temperature above 5℃ during flowering period, and below 15℃ can prolong the flowering period by more than 3 months. However, when the overwintering temperature is around 15℃, the plant leaves are green and shiny, and the flowering is advanced to January to February to supply the Spring Festival market. The flower path is soft and must be supported by upright pillars to keep it upright. If you bend it into an arch, you can make an "arched cymbidium". It is also called "cymbidium" on the market. In fact, the real "cymbidium" should be a type of cymbidium with naturally drooping inflorescences. The flowering period depends on the species. Most Cymbidium varieties require higher humidity from October to April of the next year. Therefore, sufficient water is needed for adult plants all year round and young plants should be appropriately watered. Generally, water should be poured once every morning in winter and early spring, water should be poured once before 8 o'clock and after 5 o'clock in the evening from early summer to late autumn, and foliar water should be sprayed once every day while watering. Composed cake fertilizer for growth season, diluted to a liquid fertilizer with a concentration of 0.02% is poured and applied once; Usually, fermented oil-cake organic fertilizer is mixed with bone meal or calcium superphosphate to make pellets with a diameter of about 2 cm and placed on the surface of the pot to slowly release fertility with the penetration of water. Combined with watering, a compound fertilizer solution with a concentration of 0.1%~0.2% is applied once a week.
The growth of Cymbidium requires sufficient scattered light. A shading net should be used to shade the sun by about 50% in summer and autumn. When the sun is soft in winter and spring, the shading net should be turned on to receive direct light. However, during the flowering period, the orchid plant should be placed in a place with weak light so that it can bloom brightly.
Cymbidium is often propagated by dividing plants, which takes longer than that during the short dormant period after the plants bloom and before the new buds grow up. Dry properly before dividing, and operate when the roots are slightly white and soft. Those who grow vigorously are usually divided every 2 to 3 years. Each cluster of orchid seedlings after division should carry 2 to 3 false bulbs, one of which must be newly formed in the previous year.