How to care for Cymbidium pot plants
This article introduces some tips on caring for Cymbidium pot plants and related knowledge on their maintenance in the field of green plants and flowers. The following is a detailed explanation by the editor.
To cultivate Cymbidium, it is first necessary to understand its growth habits and avoid the following four factors. Even in the north, it is possible to cultivate Cymbidium well.
1) Temperature for growth and development
Cymbidium belongs to the orchid variety that blooms in early or late spring, and its growth temperature is basically the same as that of other orchid species. However, Cymbidium is relatively cold-tolerant and can tolerate temperatures close to 0 degrees for a short period. Moreover, the 0~10 degree stage is the best period for Cymbidium to develop flower buds. If the temperature is too high during the bud formation stage, it will cause the flowers to bloom prematurely, resulting in abnormal flower shape and flowering period.
Solution: Keeping the temperature between 15~20 degrees ensures that Cymbidium can produce normal petal shapes and normal flowering periods; if the temperature exceeds 20 degrees, or even reaches 25~30 degrees, the petal shape will be affected and destroyed, the petal width will narrow, twist and deform, the flowering period will be shortened, and the quality of the flowers will be poor. Therefore, controlling the ambient temperature is one of the key factors in cultivating Cymbidium.
2) Requirement for air humidity
Cymbidium has a higher requirement for environmental humidity. Generally, the relative humidity of the air should reach about 65%~70%. In the northern region, except during the summer rainy season, the relative humidity of the air is generally dry in spring, autumn, and winter, especially during the orchid bud formation period. Low environmental air humidity is a major disadvantage in orchid cultivation. Therefore, solving the problem of air humidity is the key to cultivating Cymbidium well.
Solution: During dry spring and autumn seasons with frequent dry winds, it is possible to increase the environmental air humidity by sprinkling or spraying water on the ground, space, orchid shelves, and walls; turning on a humidifier, setting up shallow water trays or ponds, and placing towels or cotton-thread items in the water, with one end immersed in water and the other hanging on the orchid shelves, can significantly increase air humidity and reduce temperature.
3) Requirement for light intensity
In the northern region, there are many sunny days in summer, especially from noon to 4 pm, when the sunlight is intense. It is absolutely not allowed to expose Cymbidium to direct sunlight, as such strong light can raise the surface temperature of the leaves to over 40 degrees, easily causing leaf burn. The sunlight on the south-facing balconies and window sills in late spring and early autumn can also easily turn the leaves yellow.
Solution: To avoid strong sunlight exposure to orchids, shade nets should be hung on the inside of balconies, especially in the hot summer. Orchids need to be shaded or placed in areas with diffused light. For balconies with anti-theft nets, shade nets can be used to block strong sunlight in summer. shading materials include bamboo blinds, reed blinds, etc., with black nylon nets being the most commonly used. They come in different specifications, such as 50%, 60%~70%, and 70%~80% light transmission rates, which can be used in single or double layers depending on the season. Generally, single-layer shade nets are used in spring and autumn, double-layer shade nets in summer, and no shading is needed in winter.
4) Ventilation is a top priority
Cultivating orchids in a humid or stuffy environment can cause significant damage to their growth. Especially for Cymbidium, poor ventilation can affect its normal growth, causing the plant to wilt and the leaves to lose their vitality, reducing the transpiration of the leaves and weakening the respiratory function of the roots, easily leading to root rot, black spot disease, anthracnose, and stem rot, as well as causing pest infestations.
Solution: For enclosed balconies, measures such as opening and closing windows and using exhaust fans should be taken to ensure good ventilation on the balcony. If the weather is clear and the temperature is suitable, all windows on the balcony should be opened to facilitate air circulation. On windless days, as long as the placement of the orchid pots is appropriate, the air will circulate up and down. Additionally, using fans, exhaust fans, etc., can basically meet the ventilation needs of orchids.
Methods for cultivating Cymbidium on balconies in the north:
1) Improve the growing environment for orchids
Like most orchids, the growing environment is best on a southeast-facing balcony, which can receive the gentle morning sun. Cymbidium requires less sunlight than Eulophia and Cymbidium, and slightly more sunlight than Chusia and Sinorchis. It can be exposed to full sunlight for two to three hours from sunrise to around 9 am each day, and the rest of the time should be in dappled light or bright diffused light. Moderate sunlight can promote Cymbidium to become stocky, with more leaves, thicker leaf texture, round pseudobulbs, and easier flowering.
In the northern region, it is cold in winter and hot and dry winds are common in summer, making it unsuitable for outdoor cultivation of Cymbidium. However, using a glass-enclosed balcony has similar characteristics to a greenhouse used in horticulture. Compared to an open balcony, an enclosed balcony has the advantages of lower light intensity, smaller temperature differences, higher air humidity, and no interference from wind and rain, making it easy to control manually.
During the rainy season and after sprinkling water, the air humidity can reach about 80%. The annual variation pattern is similar to that of nature, but the amplitude of change is smaller, which is more beneficial to orchid growth. The focus is on solving the temperature difference through manual regulation. For example, using air conditioning equipment to increase or decrease temperature can create a day-night temperature difference that completely meets the needs of orchids for bud formation.
2) Choose suitable planting materials
The best condition for the planting material of Cymbidium is loose and breathable, which can both retain moisture and drain water. A mixture of 50% peat soil, 20% peanut shells, 10% pine bark as soft planting materials, and 10%植金石 (植金石 is a specific type of planting material, possibly "植石" or "stone material"), 10% red brick particles, or vermiculite as coarse-grained inorganic planting materials can be used. This mixture is loose, breathable, moisture-retaining, and has good drainage; peat soil and well-rotted peanut shells and pine bark are rich in organic matter and slightly acidic, and when mixed with coarse-grained minerals, they are very helpful for the root and leaf growth of orchids. This is a good planting material for growing orchids on balconies.
3) Use breathable orchid pots for planting
The value of orchid pots lies in their breathability. Therefore, when choosing orchid pots, the focus should be on their breathability, moisture retention, and heat dissipation properties. Generally, in dry and low-humidity balconies, you can choose clay pots, purple sand pots, wooden boxes, or porous plastic pots. To enhance the breathability of the orchid pots, several small finger-sized holes can be drilled in the middle of the clay pots, purple sand pots, and wooden boxes to facilitate ventilation.
4) Adopt a combination of spraying and immersion for watering
As the saying goes, "Living depends on water, and being strong depends on fertilizer." Water and fertilizer management is crucial in orchid cultivation, and watering is the most important aspect of caring for Cymbidium. Therefore, when growing orchids on a balcony, two watering methods should be adopted:
(1) Heavy watering. The air on the balcony is relatively dry, so water can be sprayed to increase air humidity. When it rains and the humidity is high, spraying water can promote the circulation of moisture and prevent internal humidity and external dryness. At the same time, spraying the inside and outside of the pot can also wash away the turbid air inside the pot, which is beneficial for the respiratory function of the orchid roots and can promote smoother breathing.
(2) Immersion to retain moisture. In the dry and moisture-loss-prone spring and autumn seasons, immerse the orchid pots once every 20 days, with each immersion lasting between 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the dryness and humidity of the potting material and the air humidity. If the pot wall is dry and lacks luster, extend the immersion time, otherwise, reduce it. This immersion method can not only supplement water to the potting material in the orchid pot but also provide fresh air to the orchid roots, which is beneficial for root growth.
5) Apply thin fertilizer frequently to eliminate diseases and pests
Orchids need sufficient nutrients and no diseases to grow well. The leaves should be tender and green with a luster, and the flowers should be of good quality. Therefore, when fertilizing orchids, the type of fertilizer should be adjusted according to the fertility of the planting material, the growth condition of the orchid seedlings, and the variety of the orchid. Generally, in addition to changing the potting material every 1~2 years, it is appropriate to fertilize 2~4 times in spring and autumn.
In spring, which is the peak growing season for orchids, nitrogen fertilizer should be used as the main component, with potassium fertilizer as a supplement; in May and June, when the flower buds are forming, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be used to promote bud differentiation and bud formation. Fertilizers such as urea, magic fertilizer, monopotassium phosphate, and calcium superphosphate can be used. When applying fertilizer to orchids, the principle of "applying thin fertilizer frequently" should be followed, and it is forbidden to apply thick or raw fertilizers.
Most orchid diseases are caused by bacteria and pests on the leaves and potting material. Therefore, prevention is the main strategy, and even when there are no diseases, fungicides and insecticides should be sprayed for prevention. At the same time, the potting material should be sterilized. It is not cost-effective to apply pesticides only after a disease has appeared. During the spring, summer, and autumn seasons, spray 4~6 times with fungicides and insecticides. Common insecticides include deltamethrin, dimethoate, carbaryl, and abamectin; common fungicides include methyl thiophanate, mancozeb, carbendazim, and chlorothalonil. These should be used strictly according to the instructions, avoiding excessive concentration or insufficient dosage, and kept out of reach of children. These products are generally available at local agricultural supply stores or large flower markets. The trademark should be recognized to prevent counterfeit products.
The above information on how to care for Cymbidium pot plants and related knowledge on their maintenance is intended to provide some help after reading this article!