Living Stone Plant Sowing
This article provides an overview: knowledge related to living stone plants, including sowing techniques. Let's explore together.
Many plant enthusiasts plan to sow living stone plants, searching online for tutorials and diaries, hoping to learn from the experience of predecessors. It is recommended to refer to multiple tutorials and tailor the method to suit individual needs. Don't copy others entirely. This article is the personal experience of CDT0521 in sowing living stone plants. Although it's not a tutorial, the insights are valuable.
It's time for another sowing season, and many enthusiasts are ready to get started. I believe many have already stocked up on seeds. Perhaps it's time to organize previous sowing experiences and share them with everyone. This way, when similar problems arise, enthusiasts won't have to worry. Patient readers can go through the information I've compiled and I'm sure it will be helpful.
1. Weather: After August, temperature differences start to increase, and rainfall decreases. Many enthusiasts can't wait to start sowing. In my view, choosing a good weather is very important. I don't like rainy or cloudy days because the temperature difference is smaller. Therefore, I would choose a consecutive 4 or 5 days of overcast weather for sowing. Of course, weather forecasts can be inaccurate. A maximum temperature below 28 degrees is also fine. Many ask, isn't the best temperature for sowing living stone plants between 15 and 25 degrees? Where would such ideal conditions be? Even if they exist, can you really wait? In my city, I usually start around September 15th when the temperature is generally between 18-28 degrees. Patient people can wait until the end of September or early October when the temperature is more suitable for sowing.
2. Sowing Soil: There may be 10 different soil formulas for 10 people. If you ask me which one is the best, I can't answer. I can only tell you the formula I have been using with good results: peat, Fafard No. 1, perlite, vermiculite, and rice husk ash. No other additives are needed. I usually add less vermiculite because it can become powdery, and not too much perlite because it can float when watered. A rough ratio would be 50% peat, 20% rice husk ash, and 15% each of vermiculite and perlite. One issue is the source of the sowing soil. Many enthusiasts buy it directly from the market or online for convenience. Some shops have good-quality sowing soil, but many sell poor-quality products. Everyone knows that peat is expensive, while perlite and rice husk ash are cheap. Therefore, the soil you buy may contain a lot of rice husk ash or perlite, or even other杂七杂八的东西. I don't know if such soil is really good, but I personally don't like it. For those who mix their own soil, I suggest buying some sieves. Generally, the sieve density is used to distinguish. A 30-mesh sieve is usually used to remove powder, which is essential. Why? Because powder can cause seedlings to become stiff and clump together. When buying sieves, you can buy a set to sieve different particle sizes and remove powder.
3. Soaking Soil and Disinfection: There is a lot written about this online, but my method is relatively simple. Soak the soil in potassium permanganate overnight to allow the soil to absorb water thoroughly. Usually, soaking for 3 or 4 hours is fine, but it's better to soak overnight. Some tutorials suggest putting the soil in a microwave for a few minutes, but I have never tried it and don't know if there will still be mold after high-temperature treatment. It's up to you. Using my method, there may still be some individual cases of mold, so deal with it promptly. Many cases of mold are not caused by the soil but by the seed shells or seed pod skins that accidentally fall into the container.
4. Sowing Box: For sowing techniques, sowing records, and sowing boxes, many people like to use lunch boxes with lids, while others prefer black plastic boxes, covered with plastic bags or cling film. All these methods work. You can use yogurt containers, coke bottles, plastic boxes, etc. The sowing methods are either spot sowing or broadcasting. There's no need for extensive explanation. When broadcasting, fold a piece of paper in half, pour the seeds in, tilt one hand, and gently tap with the other hand. Sowing records are not to be underestimated. Many people can't read their writing clearly later on, leading to lost identification numbers and records. If this happens, the plants you've nurtured become orphans without parents or origins. This would be too bad. Make sure the tags are clear, noting the time, source, identification number, and quantity. If the name is too long, record it on the computer for backup.
After doing all these tasks, the sowing work is mostly done. The next steps are to cover with plastic film and find a suitable place to put it, and then wait for germination. Some final reminders: avoid direct sunlight, usually near a north window, and check the seed progress daily. Don't rush to check in the first two days. It usually takes at least three days for seeds to show signs of germination. The soaked seeds are plump, which means germination is not far off. During the germination process, open the film for a while each day to ventilate. Check for signs of mold and remove weak seedlings to prevent the spread of mold. If there's mold, dig it out immediately. If more than half of the seedlings have germinated and there are signs of waterlogging and mold, there's no need to keep the film on, as continuing to do so could lead to catastrophic results.
Several Common Issues with Seedlings
1. Lighting: Many people don't know what to do after the seeds have germinated. Some enthusiasts say that young seedlings don't need direct sunlight, just diffused light. This often leads to leggy seedlings. How should young seedlings be exposed to light? The warm sunlight from 7 to 8 a.m., filtered through a window and a gauze, is perfect. You'll find that after a few days of exposure, the young seedlings will become round and plump, a sign of good health. As the seedlings grow larger, you can gradually increase the time of exposure, but always use a net to protect them from direct sunlight.
2. Watering: My advice is to control your hands. Don't spray water every day; the seedlings can't handle it. Although young seedlings are not afraid of water, it's important to train them to be drought-resistant from a young age. Usually, spray or water the plants every 3 to 5 days, depending on the environment and climate.
3. Regularly spray with carbendazim. Whether it's effective or not, at least it provides peace of mind.
4. Support seedlings: My method is to wait until most seedlings have emerged and then evenly sprinkle river sand. For seedlings whose roots haven't penetrated the soil, use a toothpick to poke them. For densely sown areas, use a toothpick to separate them, and if the roots are upside down, use a toothpick to turn them back. Toothpicks are great tools for supporting seedlings.
5. Black flies: Black flies have started to bother us. Black flies are not scary, but their larvae, which feed on living stone plant seedlings, are. How can we reduce these losses? First, keep the soil surface dry. Larvae are afraid of sunlight and are most active in moist conditions. Second, observe for silk-like substances on the soil surface, which are signs of larvae. Third, use pesticides. Generally, use protect flowers, and for more severe cases, you can repeat the application.
I can think of these points for now. If there's anything missing, I hope passing masters can supplement and guide, at least giving some confidence to those who enjoy sowing and helping them raise good seedlings.
The above explanation of living stone plant sowing (experiences) is hoping to bring a little help to your life!